Orthodynamic Roundup

[nick n]

at first I thought you forgot the $ in front of the 250 then i realized...

or is it both $250 and 250 pairs, either works

 

[JamesHuntington]

Now you all have to edit your posts to throw off the scent. LOL

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

Now you all have to edit your posts to throw off the scent. LOL

Dang what did I miss?!

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

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Not sure that is the ideal transplant can. The TDS15 is small and supra. Whereas the Takstar is huge, circum and velour (non sealing). Totally different shells so the sound would drastically change. Ofc you could get lucky and that change be great!
Let us know how the experimentation goes. My guess is the combination of circum and velour will make you lose too much bass/make the treble overpower. But its an interesting project nonetheless.

Kabeer,
 
Do you (or anyone) have a suggestion for a better TDS-15 foster fone?
 
I removed the drivers from their cups. I used my DMM to test continuity between the TRS and driver terminals. It was surprising (to me) that the tip, ring, and sleeve "beeped" my DMM for Both terminals of both drivers. A friend suggested using the ohm meter. This is probably old news but here's what the DMM showed (Ohms):
 
Blue (Left Channel) with same readings reversing the DMM probes:
Tip and Left Terminal = 0.6
Ring and Left Terminal = 34
Sleeve and Left Terminal = 17
Tip and Right Terminal = 17
Ring and Right Terminal = 18
Sleeve and Right Terminal = 0.6
 
Red (Right Channel) with same readings reversing the DBB probes:
Tip and Left terminal = 34
Ring and Left terminal = 0.6
Sleeve and Left terminal = 17
Tip and Right terminal = 18
Ring and Right terminal = 17
Sleeve and Right terminal = 0.6
 
[size=x-small]The clear wires in this set of TDS-15 are translucent green.  I removed some insulation and found the copper wires had oxidized. The wires are also brittle. Does anyone know if copper oxidation degrades the sound? I'll replace the wires in any case. Now I want to check the wires in my other sets.[/size]

 

[leeperry]

velours can indeed be bass-shy and leaky, but it saves the day on this SFI'sh bass-heavy YHD-2 

 

 

[Hutnicks]

Quote:

velours can indeed be bass-shy and leaky, but it saves the day on this SFI'sh bass-heavy YHD-2 

 

 
You betcha! Go circumaural with that same setup and watch what happens..

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

What are those pads? They look more comfy than the stock thin felt (over the ruined stock foam)
Quote:

velours can indeed be bass-shy and leaky, but it saves the day on this SFI'sh bass-heavy YHD-2 

 

 

[proid]

This is my Hp-3 and it sound not good at all. In stock form it sound dull, soundstage is narrow, more than average bass quantity but does not reach deep, it's much worse than a stock Hp-1. i tried to add a little cotton in the cavity behind the stock foam and another layer of 0.5mm dense felt in front of stock foam, now it sound clearer but still worse.

 

[gurubhai]

^ It seems like you have a bass-heavy pair of HP50 and it would require heavier damping to to get upto speed. Check Ludoo's HP-3 modding tutorial to get a idea of what may be required.

 

[roBernd]

Just refurbishing these HP-1 I recently sniped. Superb condition, even the pads still look good.
I read about this driver variant, which caused some rucus... but, how can I identify which version I got in front of me.
 
Is there a comparison, well Pics?
Did some searching plus google... can't seem to find a comparison.

 

[Kabeer]

Quote:

Just refurbishing these HP-1 I recently sniped. Superb condition, even the pads still look good.
I read about this driver variant, which caused some rucus... but, how can I identify which version I got in front of me.
 
Is there a comparison, well Pics?
Did some searching plus google... can't seem to find a comparison.

There are two versions. The sintered, and anisotropic versions (reffering to the magnets).
The sintered version has the silver coloured box, and the drivers have a slightly rough looking surface like this: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/heildriver/YamahaHP-1.jpg
 
The anisotropic version has a black box, and drivers have a more uniform darker surface. This surface is actually a steel keeper plate, so when the drivers are viewed side on you can see a plate glued onto the rough looking magnets. They look like the YH-100 drivers: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/heildriver/YH-100driver-2a.jpg

 

[leeperry]

yeah, too bad there was no CNC in the mid-70's 

the YHD2 velours earpads came from the AiAiAi TMA-1

 

[AudioCats]

 just bought a pair of T20V1, (like the retro look and double cable entry)

, is there any simple & reversable mod I can do to improve the SQ a little (or a lot)?

 

[nick n]

Curious as to the driver in the Dual DK-830, specifically size. Can't seem to locate the specs for diameter anywhere.

 

[Kabeer]

Quote:

Curious as to the driver in the Dual DK-830, specifically size. Can't seem to locate the specs for diameter anywhere.

Thats what it looks like: http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/18525#post_8015051 and its on wikiphonia too.
There seem to be two variants of the driver: http://www.head-fi.org/t/202122/the-headphone-driver-pics-thread/225#post_8380871

As for the size, its the same size as the one in Telefunken TH700, PMB80, PMB-100 etc.
I dont have a pair in front of me, but I vaguely recall it was around 55mm diameter, maybe someone can confirm. This is of course not including the metal clamp/clips on the driver edges.