May 23, 2013 at 10:11 PM Post #21,676 of 27,299
Quote:
A headphone Jesus could make a pair of sony mdr-v150 sound like hd-800. So if you want the name you better step up!


Oh I have a pair of 11 dollar wonders that'll challenge your value system
basshead.gif

 
May 23, 2013 at 11:51 PM Post #21,677 of 27,299
Spent some time playing around with the ATH-2. To be fair, they can't touch the HOK 80-1 and the only impressive thing about them is the glue on the pads.
 
Maybe there's a magic pill.
 
May 24, 2013 at 12:14 AM Post #21,678 of 27,299
Are the baffles cut away on those?
 
May 24, 2013 at 10:26 PM Post #21,680 of 27,299
Taking away all damping, convolving to the response of the damped HP-50 and applying extra manual EQ where applicable made the ATH-2 sound quite nice. They have a kicky bass without bloat and an overall focused, clean sound.
 
Also, I can hear ericj creaking in his rocking chair, which adds to the enjoyment.
 
May 26, 2013 at 7:11 AM Post #21,681 of 27,299
Got fed up with the limited and unnerving modding situation of my orthos. Removing the pads, loosening the screws, opening up the cups, applying some padding and then putting the assembly together again. Just to find out that the result does not meet your expectations. Thereby ruining your cups and pads.
 
As a result I did some thinking and finally I came up with a design/modding strategy that makes it really easy and quick to apply changes. 
 
In the attached pictures you can see that I removeg the drivers (T50RP and T20V2) from the plastic baffles and use wood baffles instead. Then I use custom made wood enclosures to give the drivers a bigger acoustic chamber and myself the opportunity to apply damping material easily and comfortably.
 
The thing that really makes the modding easy is the "Strato lid system". The wood lid is a little smaller in diameter than the opening. Then I glue a felt disk (or closed-cell foam if you prefer to seal the chamber and avoid venting) at the back of the lid. The felt is a little larger than the wood disk. When you press the lid into the cup, the felt fills the ring between lid and shell and holds the lid in place. If you want to change the damping, you just have to get the lid out again (works very nicely and easily) and you are there, right at the back of the driver, to apply the changes. 
 
That way you can try lots of damping versions without removing the pads, loosening the screws ....
 
The phones you see in the pictures are rosewood T50RPs and Gaboon Ebony T20v2s. As pads I am using Brainwavz HM5 pads.
 


 


 
May 26, 2013 at 12:05 PM Post #21,682 of 27,299
Quote:
Got fed up with the limited and unnerving modding situation of my orthos. Removing the pads, loosening the screws, opening up the cups, applying some padding and then putting the assembly together again. Just to find out that the result does not meet your expectations. Thereby ruining your cups and pads.
 
As a result I did some thinking and finally I came up with a design/modding strategy that makes it really easy and quick to apply changes. 
 
In the attached pictures you can see that I removeg the drivers (T50RP and T20V2) from the plastic baffles and use wood baffles instead. Then I use custom made wood enclosures to give the drivers a bigger acoustic chamber and myself the opportunity to apply damping material easily and comfortably.
 
The thing that really makes the modding easy is the "Strato lid system". The wood lid is a little smaller in diameter than the opening. Then I glue a felt disk (or closed-cell foam if you prefer to seal the chamber and avoid venting) at the back of the lid. The felt is a little larger than the wood disk. When you press the lid into the cup, the felt fills the ring between lid and shell and holds the lid in place. If you want to change the damping, you just have to get the lid out again (works very nicely and easily) and you are there, right at the back of the driver, to apply the changes. 
 
That way you can try lots of damping versions without removing the pads, loosening the screws ....
 
The phones you see in the pictures are rosewood T50RPs and Gaboon Ebony T20v2s. As pads I am using Brainwavz HM5 pads.
 


 


That is quite brilliant.
 
Love the ebony. Must have cost a bomb.
 
May 27, 2013 at 12:37 PM Post #21,684 of 27,299
Quote:
"Strato lid system"
 

Haha, and we were just talking about marketing terms about 10 pages back.
But, seriously, nice job they look beautiful and some more.
 
 
 
Recently I've been reworking my DIY headphones--the ones in the ATH-RE70 shells with SFI drivers.
For some reason I can't get any proper treble out of it anymore, with or without any form of damping. Heck even with the drivers bare.
I do wonder if it's my hearing, or that it's just too humid for the drivers. I don't recall such a total lack in treble in the past, with the same exact drivers.
 
May 27, 2013 at 12:41 PM Post #21,685 of 27,299
The ATH-2 do clean, deep bass quite easily with EQ and no damping. 10 Hz is clearly perceptible and above that there's no problem remaining at the level of 1 kHz. Stock, they barely reach 60 Hz.
 
May 27, 2013 at 5:08 PM Post #21,689 of 27,299
It's the driver, not me. Technically, apart from having a very colored frequency response, the decay is squeaky clean if not the fastest and the response while colored is still very smooth. When pushed, the driver can do bass, it can do treble, but for some reason in its stock form it's very colored whether in the cup or out in free air.
 
May 29, 2013 at 11:53 PM Post #21,690 of 27,299
Are electrets allowed? 
tongue.gif

 

 
Got an ATH-6 a few days ago. It's on its way to me.
 

 
Doesn't have the energizer but I got it for absolutely dirt cheap ($18) and its in decent shape. Anyone have any experience with it? Maybe have a spare energizer or stat amp they'd be willing to sell?
 
Might use the shell as a foster phone if I can't find an energizer for cheap.
 

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