[i_djoel2000]

did my last post just get deleted? why?

 

[Chris_Himself]

Quote:

did my last post just get deleted? why?

Ur going to Head-Fi jail soon.
 
Nah you can't use head-fi for personal gain without identifying yourself as a Member of the Trade, and then in that scenario you cannot promote anything you make and/or make and post merely only for the sake of contributing to the community like myself

 

[i_djoel2000]

Quote:

Ur going to Head-Fi jail soon.
 
Nah you can't use head-fi for personal gain without identifying yourself as a Member of the Trade, and then in that scenario you cannot promote anything you make and/or make and post merely only for the sake of contributing to the community like myself

i think that's not it.. my post that got deleted was asking about the dimension/measurement of grado hp1000 cup
 
and no, i'm not making personal gain at this moment. as i mentioned previously, i'm only going to split the production cost with no mark up or profit
 
do we have to be member of the trade to make small group buy or something like this? not that i know of.. but let me know if i bend or break any rules

 

[Mullet]

Quote:

One question for the group,  are you leaving the felt behind the grill on the Orenholts cups,  or are you taking it out ?
 

I didn't realize there was felt behind the grill or at least on mine. Do you have pics of what it looks like?
 
 

 

[Jason36]

Quote:

I didn't realize there was felt behind the grill or at least on mine. Do you have pics of what it looks like?
 
 

 
Here's a pic of my Orhenholz Bocote cups. You can see the cloth which is actually sandwiched between two grills and then fastened in place. According to Sylvan at Orhenholz the cloth helps to cut down on any stray resonance from the drivers. Personally I like the way they look and it also helps keep dust out of the cups
 

 

[meltdown100]

Just to chime in and clarify - I've done that when the drivers are vented, it has the effect of moving the baffle from the back of the driver and places it behind the cup screen.  As most of the Grado modders can attest, the number of holes opened on the stock Grado drivers will affect the amount and quality of bass - too much and they start sounding muddy and lose precision on faster music.  So doing this basically still allows the driver to breathe more and increases bass response while also keeping an airflow restriction on the driver so the bass doesn't get boomy or bloated.
 
I've gotten great very nice sonic results combining 2 layers of felt behind the screens with opening 2 felt holes behind each driver in the SR60-225 drivers - plus it looks very nice and hides the wiring and 'guts' behind the driver.  The SR60 mod thread has tons of detail on how to properly do that mod - and not everyone is a fan of the resulting sound changes and prefer to leave their drivers unadulterated when transplanting into different cups, so keep that in mind.
 
Black felt can be found in the crafts section at Wal-mart.  To keep it in place nicely as seen in Jason36's photo, it can be sandwiched between two sets of screens as he indicated.  This could even be made a bit more interesting by using different felt colors, tan/brown, etc.

 

[thelostMIDrange]

you who are students, thrifty, or just plain normal and average like myself, and who listen to music made by traditional 20th century instruments like guitar, drums, piano, unprocessed human vocal etc., want basic natural sound from your music,and a rig at stupid cost, check out the koss ksc75/sansa.......Those with sufficient motivation can even fool around with liberating the drivers and design a wood cup around it. Frankly i'm so pleased I won't be doing it anytime soon, but it's another modding option. Frankly, I feel it's as nice a driver as a magnum. No joke, They are similar to senn650 in their even-ess but more natural and a nicer more upfront presentation like a grado/mag. I frankly prefer them to either the senns of grados. They get plugged directly into a used sansa flac player and its a $60 total/40GB rig. a little e/q to taste and it's done. The things I like about the driver is it's naturalness, balance, and it doesn't get colored like the magnums did for me when the volume gets turned up. Snare drums never sound odd. Plus they have a quality which is musically pleasing, it's somewhere in the mids/vocals and it's a lushness like the senns give. The koss gets all the basics right. Mids are natural and upfront, treble is realistic, not super extended but far enough for me. Bass is natural, non obtrusive, no artificial 'punch', balanced and fairly extended. But be warned this is not the sound of most other headphones, there is no exaggerated bass, extra ordinary e/q, silly upper end extension etc.  I believe these manufacturer of phones, search for that last 10% extra and sacrifice some of the basics to get it.  If they could get the basics, and then add the last 10% that would be great, but it doesn't seem to be the case ime. From where I stand, I see many rabbit holes around here to toss my money into, and the koss/sansa isn't one of them.  peace.

 

[Mozu]

 

[thelostMIDrange]

you missed it mozu, it's not for you in any case.

 

[i_djoel2000]

just managed to take a picture of my air chamber today..
 
material used is solid alloy used for molding imported from Korea. The alloy can sustained temperatur to about 200 degree C and light weight. almost as light as symphones air chamber, but much more rigid
 
in this air chamber case it's not as light as symphones air chamber, though. because i made it twice the thickness of it, but still very light weight
 


 

 

[Melvins]

Question: Which is better, the wood chamber or the aluminum chamber? I imagine they both have their plus and minuses 

 

[t-crisis]

Quote:

Question: Which is better, the wood chamber or the aluminum chamber? I imagine they both have their plus and minuses 

I would refer you to (lostmidrange's) cup tuning basics thread to explain how difficult it is to find the right wood cup but I think in general people agree that the wood (being softer) cuts down the edginess and adds some warmth, low end.

And the aluminum is more for detail freaks and tends to be very bright. 

Just what I've read - I don't have much experience at all really.

 

[i_djoel2000]

i have tried all possible combinations. full alu (original symphones magnum), wood air chamber + ms2i cup, alu air chamber + wood cup
 
the most important material of this headphone is the cup itself. full alu and wood air chamber + ms2i cup results in a better detail, wide soundstage, and very good bass
 
wood cup will result in a mellower sound, less controlled and punchy bass, narrower soundstage, and on your face vocal
 
the best sound i can come up with is either with full alu, or indian rosewood air chamber + ms2i cup (as i mentioned earlier, cup is the most important material here

)
 
that's why i'm planning to make a hp1000-style, no distancer, no screw, one piece cup (should be even better than the original air chamber + ms2 cup). the only thing that keeping me from executing this idea is that the cost of making 1 pair of cup only is really huge, around $300

 

[thelostMIDrange]

I've heard 13 sets in dozens of different cups and recently sent a particularly extreme set to tyll for a freq analysis since I was trying to pinpoint why the drivers seemed to my ears, to have a certain color in the mids. I'm still waiting for the results however.

 

[i_djoel2000]

Quote:

I've heard 13 sets in dozens of different cups and recently sent a particularly extreme set to tyll for a freq analysis since I was trying to pinpoint why the drivers seemed to my ears, to have a certain color in the mids. I'm still waiting for the results however.

you can do that? or does he only accept driver measurement for headphones which particularly attract his attention?