Grado modders go Magnum
Nov 16, 2011 at 6:25 PM Post #301 of 4,994
Stratocaster,
 
Thanks for providing your impressions on the v3.5 vs. v4.0 drivers.  Interesting.  I love this stuff !!  I was plagued with packages today - I headed home at lunch time to pick up what I could.  The bare Mahogany cups for the Magnums, the pair of SR-60s in a pair of Marty's Bloodwood cups and the SR-325i drivers and cables that are incoming from Amos.  I had to keep looking at my calendar to make sure it wasn't Christmas.  The only drawback was the shipment from Amos - since it was International express, they just left a slip in my box.  I have to go the post office and pick up the items.
 
Keep on modding ...
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Nov 16, 2011 at 6:27 PM Post #302 of 4,994


Quote:
just wondering,,,,,,,,,I'm sure wood species affects tone here. Cocobolo vs zebrawood vs mahogany would likely all have different signatures. Cupping the hands on a grado, the tone changes greatly. This can only mean that there is alot of sound bouncing around in there and the wood species is what it's bouncing around in/on/off.......maybe that's where the extra bass came from?


From your statement, yes, it is believed that different woods can have a different effect on the sound.  Also, I often wonder about the size of the outer hole where the screen / mesh gets applied.  Does a smaller or larger diameter of hole have an impact on sound?  A smaller hole would mean that the air would move a bit slower out of the backs, while a larger hole could potentially allow the air to flow with less restriction.  Or, maybe my theories are just some nutty theories to the point of where I should be wearing a tin foil hat?
 
 
 
Nov 16, 2011 at 7:26 PM Post #303 of 4,994
In thing your theorie in is a founded one because It is believed that the button in the middle of some higher end model (RS1) and the buttonless model sound different.
 
Quote:
From your statement, yes, it is believed that different woods can have a different effect on the sound.  Also, I often wonder about the size of the outer hole where the screen / mesh gets applied.  Does a smaller or larger diameter of hole have an impact on sound?  A smaller hole would mean that the air would move a bit slower out of the backs, while a larger hole could potentially allow the air to flow with less restriction.  Or, maybe my theories are just some nutty theories to the point of where I should be wearing a tin foil hat?
 
 



 
 
Nov 16, 2011 at 7:36 PM Post #304 of 4,994


Quote:
After completing the full alu setup yesterday, I installed my second set of V4's into my Zebrawood rs1-clones today.
Both setups are burning in. Comparing both to my Cocobolo V3.5s, I can definitely say that the V4's have MORE BASS. Another thing I can say, we Grado modders did not go wrong when we chose the wood way. The Magnums pair extremely well with wood, both the V3.5 and the V4's, the first being more on the neutral side and making the highs sparkle and shine, the latter bringing out the lower end more while not losing on transparency and instrument separation.
I can never wait for burn-in to complete. So I always put on the new setups right away. And I can say one thing for sure. Even at the beginning of burn-in and right from the start I fell in love with the sound of the wood setup and, at the moment, I would prefer it over the alu version. The V4's in wood shells sound absolutely fantastic to my ears, they do everything right, nothing is missing. I do not want to say more about the alu setup, I have the feeling that I can only draw any conclusions after I give them more burn-in time.
I will report back once the drivers are fully burnt in. Just thought I should share my initial impressions. When I read that Rhydon had been trying to work on the highs to reduce sibilance I never noticed I was not expecting that he had tweaked the lower end as well. I definitely like what I am hearing. Good job, Rhydon!
 
 

hmmm. Interesting impressions. I don't really like the idea of the V4's being more bassy, but we shall see what my ears think when I get them. I might wind up bartering for some 3.5 drivers if that really is the case. Rhydon didn't mention any change between the 3.5's and 4's as far as bass goes. 
 
When asked about the differences between the 3.5's and 4's: "They are more refined than the V3.5's. The highs are less strident and more extended. Also the mids are a touch more clear and the sound staging is more accurate."
 
 


Quote:
just wondering,,,,,,,,,I'm sure wood species affects tone here. Cocobolo vs zebrawood vs mahogany would likely all have different signatures. Cupping the hands on a grado, the tone changes greatly. This can only mean that there is alot of sound bouncing around in there and the wood species is what it's bouncing around in/on/off.......maybe that's where the extra bass came from?


+1, I'm thinking it might have a lot to do with this and the fact that they haven't been burned in completely. 
 


Quote:
Are the jaben cups larger than standard 325 cups? I guess thats another link in the chain. The only thing Im nnot sold on is the gold grado cups and silver housings. I know you can take the gold off but it leaves a nasty unfinished dull grey look on the grado cups.


 


Schwallman, I would maybe be willing to trade you some brand new ms2i cups, if those are more to your likings. I have always been pretty fond of the gold cups. I don't think I'd hesitate to do a switch with you. I don't quite have the ms2i cups in my possession though. I should have them by this weekend. 
 


Quote:
In thing your theorie in is a founded one because It is believed that the button in the middle of some higher end model (RS1) and the buttonless model sound different.
 


 


I just sent Rhydon an email asking if the button makes any difference or if it's purely aesthetic. 
 
 
Nov 16, 2011 at 9:31 PM Post #307 of 4,994
I have made up my mind on wood choices, masaccar ebony & burmese rosewood, FWJ.
 
Now I think I will need to get the V4 drivers and aluminium enclosures from rhydon for my MS1000 (like stratocaster, who is my saviour in this forum).
 
Nov 16, 2011 at 9:52 PM Post #308 of 4,994
I too was under the impression that Rhydon left the bass alone and focused on the highs in the Version 4.  Did Rhydon say he worked on the bass as well?
 
Quote:
After completing the full alu setup yesterday, I installed my second set of V4's into my Zebrawood rs1-clones today.
Both setups are burning in. Comparing both to my Cocobolo V3.5s, I can definitely say that the V4's have MORE BASS. Another thing I can say, we Grado modders did not go wrong when we chose the wood way. The Magnums pair extremely well with wood, both the V3.5 and the V4's, the first being more on the neutral side and making the highs sparkle and shine, the latter bringing out the lower end more while not losing on transparency and instrument separation.
I can never wait for burn-in to complete. So I always put on the new setups right away. And I can say one thing for sure. Even at the beginning of burn-in and right from the start I fell in love with the sound of the wood setup and, at the moment, I would prefer it over the alu version. The V4's in wood shells sound absolutely fantastic to my ears, they do everything right, nothing is missing. I do not want to say more about the alu setup, I have the feeling that I can only draw any conclusions after I give them more burn-in time.
I will report back once the drivers are fully burnt in. Just thought I should share my initial impressions. When I read that Rhydon had been trying to work on the highs to reduce sibilance I never noticed I was not expecting that he had tweaked the lower end as well. I definitely like what I am hearing. Good job, Rhydon!
 
 



 
 
Nov 16, 2011 at 10:55 PM Post #309 of 4,994


Quote:
 

Schwallman, I would maybe be willing to trade you some brand new ms2i cups, if those are more to your likings. I have always been pretty fond of the gold cups. I don't think I'd hesitate to do a switch with you. I don't quite have the ms2i cups in my possession though. I should have them by this weekend. 
 

I just sent Rhydon an email asking if the button makes any difference or if it's purely aesthetic. 
 


Chris, I might possibly take you up on that.
 
Did he email you today? I sent him a message about an invoice and havent heard back yet.
 
 
 
Nov 16, 2011 at 11:24 PM Post #310 of 4,994


Quote:
Chris, I might possibly take you up on that.
 
Did he email you today? I sent him a message about an invoice and havent heard back yet.
 
 



Yeah, I've talked to him today. I imagine he gets quite a bit of email, he has always been pretty quick to respond to any questions of mine. I would suggest sending another email if it has been a while. It's easy to accidently skip over an email, or start typing a response and forget to finish or hit send :)
 
Nov 17, 2011 at 2:56 AM Post #311 of 4,994


Quote:
I too was under the impression that Rhydon left the bass alone and focused on the highs in the Version 4.  Did Rhydon say he worked on the bass as well?
 

I guess once you change one aspect, be it the high or low end or the midrange, it will affect the other(s) as well. You pull a string and this will tighten up or loosen other strings connected to it.
 

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grev /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I have made up my mind on wood choices, masaccar ebony & burmese rosewood, FWJ.
Now I think I will need to get the V4 drivers and aluminium enclosures from rhydon for my MS1000


Nice wood choice Grev.
As for your plans about aluminum enclosures and MS1000 mod: If I remember correctly, you have Jaben cups. Are you planning that in your Jaben cups? If so, you may face problems. You would have to cut down the depth of the Jabens first, then you could slide in the Magnum air chambers, which would project a little from the jaben cups to (intentionally) hold the pads in place. In order to achieve an MS1000 mod you would then, finally, have to add wood(plastic) distancers too, which then would hold the G-cushions! The result would be that you could see the magnum air chambers sticking out from your outer alu shells. You can see this in Flipjack's pic on page 1 of this thread. He uses SR325 shells, but basically it would look very much alike, leaving you with quite a deep profile.
Another option would be to just buy V4's without the air chambers and put them in wood cups. Then you could put a wood distancer on top et voila! I am sure it is absolutely no problem for Marty to make you wood distancers according to the specs published in the MS1000 thread.
Third option: Jaben alu setup, including the alu distancer. You could ask Marty to build you wooden enclosures with the specs of the stock plastic enclosure that holds a Grado driver. Basically you would put this wood enclosure in the Jabens, screw the lid on and have a wood lined, Magnumized, alu MS1000.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
 
 
Nov 17, 2011 at 9:47 AM Post #312 of 4,994


Quote:
I guess once you change one aspect, be it the high or low end or the midrange, it will affect the other(s) as well. You pull a string and this will tighten up or loosen other strings connected to it.
 

 

Nice wood choice Grev.
As for your plans about aluminum enclosures and MS1000 mod: If I remember correctly, you have Jaben cups. Are you planning that in your Jaben cups? If so, you may face problems. You would have to cut down the depth of the Jabens first, then you could slide in the Magnum air chambers, which would project a little from the jaben cups to (intentionally) hold the pads in place. In order to achieve an MS1000 mod you would then, finally, have to add wood(plastic) distancers too, which then would hold the G-cushions! The result would be that you could see the magnum air chambers sticking out from your outer alu shells. You can see this in Flipjack's pic on page 1 of this thread. He uses SR325 shells, but basically it would look very much alike, leaving you with quite a deep profile.
Another option would be to just buy V4's without the air chambers and put them in wood cups. Then you could put a wood distancer on top et voila! I am sure it is absolutely no problem for Marty to make you wood distancers according to the specs published in the MS1000 thread.
Third option: Jaben alu setup, including the alu distancer. You could ask Marty to build you wooden enclosures with the specs of the stock plastic enclosure that holds a Grado driver. Basically you would put this wood enclosure in the Jabens, screw the lid on and have a wood lined, Magnumized, alu MS1000.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
 



I like the last option the best, actually, because I like the bass response the Jaben cups are giving, which if I'm correct would give a better lower end than the original grado cup dimensions.  And now I feel stupid for buying the cups alone because they're just sitting there along with the jumbo pads doing nothing... :p
 
Nov 17, 2011 at 9:58 AM Post #313 of 4,994
Finally received my donor SR-60i for the Magnum v4 drivers/chamber and would be doing the asembly later tonight but I'm currently working from home so I decided to try the SR-60i. My experience with Grado started with a short session with 125 and then I was hooked and bought the SR-325i, MS2i, MS-Pro and the story goes but WOW! I put a set of bowl on them (I can stand the sound with the softy) and I'm loving it. I feel a bit sad of putting them a part but it's for a good cause
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 MAGNUM Baby!
 
Nov 17, 2011 at 10:09 AM Post #314 of 4,994
I have just received my Magnum drivers courtesy of Wayne, and installed them almost right away with hot glue. All I can say is. Wow.
 

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