[BIG POPPA]

Jack only charged 150 bucks to install the Blackgates and 80 bucks for the WBT RCA's in the 3+. To me this was a no brainer after the 75 bucks for the Teflon Tube bases and 20 bucks to install the Furutech Rhodium IEC I had sent him. Everything was like 850 bucks plus 30 bucks for the IEC. Then all the stuff I got while waiting.

 

[Seamaster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clayton SF /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey! Your insides are different from my insides. You are blue and I am green. I think blue looks really regal. Yes, blue is nice. I also see that you've done a lot of homework on caps. If Blackgates have 2.5~3 star out of 5, then what caps are rated higher and are they readily available? I guess I need to do some cap homework myself!

V-cap one of the best, but not my tast. Mondorf silver oil or Jensen copper in paper tube (new version). All depend where you put them in the amp. And then I am not sure about Modwright's own cap. But their products are well known for great SQ. Looks like swap cap is not a easy job since you have to desolder the whole board to get those caps. My amp is an earlier version than yours I guess and have extra preamp section.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIG POPPA /img/forum/go_quote.gif Jack only charged 150 bucks to install the Blackgates and 80 bucks for the WBT RCA's in the 3+. To me this was a no brainer after the 75 bucks for the Teflon Tube bases and 20 bucks to install the Furutech Rhodium IEC I had sent him. Everything was like 850 bucks plus 30 bucks for the IEC. Then all the stuff I got while waiting.

That's the kind price I am looking for. But checked Modwright's website, all his Mod are over $1000 USD almost.

 

[tosehee]

Well, he charges a lot for his work, for his own right.

The desoldering that board doesn't seem so hard actually. If you look carefully, there are 10 places where you need to desolder (4 up, 2 right, 2 left, 4 down), and even if there are more places, I don't think that's an issue. The wires seem to be long enough to re-apply the solder later.

I have a local guy here who repairs the cell phones. He can solder the tiny places in cell phone and he does like 100 phones per day. To professional solders, de-soldering and apply the new one would be an easy task.

I will have to study on the V-Caps and other film caps for a future upgrade myself.

 

[Seamaster]

The WA22 does have soul. Form what I learn V-cap will take that quality away form this amp. My solder job is very very bad, so I don't want to do it myself.

 

[tosehee]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seamaster /img/forum/go_quote.gif The WA22 does have soul. Form what I learn V-cap will take that quality away form this amp. My solder job is very very bad, so I don't want to do it myself.

Right.

I meant for professional soldiers and DIYs.

As for actual caps, what other options are there other than v-cap and black gate?

 

[Clayton SF]

Hey all WA22 owners, I noticed that on Jack's website the Woo Audio 22's tech specs lists a DACT CT4 balanced stereo stepped attenuator but when I photographed mine it says DACT CT2. Does anyone know if there a marked difference between the two? Thanks! Clayton

 

[Seamaster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clayton SF /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey all WA22 owners, I noticed that on Jack's website the Woo Audio 22's tech specs lists a DACT CT4 balanced stereo stepped attenuator but when I photographed mine it says DACT CT2. Does anyone know if there a marked difference between the two? Thanks! Clayton

The audio volume controls CT2 is a high quality stepped 24-position attenuator. It was designed for maximum sonic quality, accuracy and reliability.

This makes it equally suited for audiophile applications and for professional applications. The series resistor networks consist of 23 non-inductive, low noise, SMD metal film resistors. The layout of the PC board and the choice of SMD resistors have reduced the signal path to a minimum length (typical five times shorter than conventional stepped attenuator designs with leaded resistors). The PCB design combined with the special resistors also account for the very low series inductance and the very low stray capacitance. The result is a bandwidth beyond even the most demanding audiophiles requirements.

The DACT CT4 stepped stereo balance controls compliment the CT2 stepped attenuators and are made to the same high precision and quality. The 25 kOhm balance control is designed especially for 10 kOhm attenuators and the 250 kOhm balance control for 100 kOhm (or lower) attenuators.

Mine is CT2

CT2 is $50 USD more expensive than CT4

 

[IctusBrucks]

I just got the Amperex GZ34 tube I ordered off e-bay.

As I was unpacking it, the tube fell out of the cardboard sleeve and onto the wooden floor. Didn't break the outter shell, but there is now a small piece of loose glass rattling around inside the tube. Can't tell what it's from.

Could I possibly ruin my amp if I plug this tube in??? Would it be worth testing it with a tube tester, and if so can anybody recommend one, or do you think I'm better off just considering the tube a loss?

 

[Seamaster]

If tube tester tested good, it is ok to use. I have tube like that have small piece of glass chip lose inside, works just fine

 

[Clayton SF]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seamaster /img/forum/go_quote.gif The audio volume controls CT2 is a high quality stepped 24-position attenuator. It was designed for maximum sonic quality, accuracy and reliability. This makes it equally suited for audiophile applications and for professional applications. The series resistor networks consist of 23 non-inductive, low noise, SMD metal film resistors. The layout of the PC board and the choice of SMD resistors have reduced the signal path to a minimum length (typical five times shorter than conventional stepped attenuator designs with leaded resistors). The PCB design combined with the special resistors also account for the very low series inductance and the very low stray capacitance. The result is a bandwidth beyond even the most demanding audiophiles requirements. The DACT CT4 stepped stereo balance controls compliment the CT2 stepped attenuators and are made to the same high precision and quality. The 25 kOhm balance control is designed especially for 10 kOhm attenuators and the 250 kOhm balance control for 100 kOhm (or lower) attenuators. Mine is CT2 CT2 is $50 USD more expensive than CT4

Thanks. So then it's probably a typo on Jack's website. The CT4 is listed as a WA22 standard and not an upgrade (which is a $215 option on some of his other amps).

 

[Seamaster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clayton SF /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks. So then it's probably a typo on Jack's website. The CT4 is listed as a WA22 standard and not an upgrade (which is a $215 option on some of his other amps).

DACT CT4 and CT2 are high quality parts.

 

[Bohemianism]

How much wiggle room should there be, I just noticed my tubes can move side to side quite a bit. I didn't notice it before because I've never did it as I know it's just good. I did it very gently and noticed they can movie quite a bit. When I go to pull them out straight up they are fairly filmy in there.

 

[Clayton SF]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bohemianism /img/forum/go_quote.gif How much wiggle room should there be, I just noticed my tubes can move side to side quite a bit. I didn't notice it before because I've never did it as I know it's just good. I did it very gently and noticed they can movie quite a bit. When I go to pull them out straight up they are fairly filmy in there.

My tubes seem quite loose too, like a loose tooth--loose from side to side but really firmly in place and hard to pull out. In fact they seem to settle one way or the other the longer my amp is on (like to the left or to the right, backward or forward) like the leaning Tower of Pisa.

 

[Bohemianism]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clayton SF /img/forum/go_quote.gif like a loose tooth--loose from side to side but really firmly in place and hard to pull out. :

That's the perfect way to describe it.
Is this normal for other people too?

 

[aRRR]

Yes