[hodgjy]

X2.  Loose bases don't affect tube performance.  They just annoy the owner who wants perfect equipment.
 
Also, I don't recommend re-gluing bases because you are just asking for trouble.  Thermal expansion may crack the base, glass, or cause uneven heating that may reduce tube life. 
 
Quote:

A loose base should affect neither the performance nor the longevity of the tube.  My recommendation is to handle it with care and otherwise leave it be.  If you use an adhesive with thermal properties different from the original it could result in the glass envelope cracking from temperature differential stress in the long run.

 

[hodgjy]

If someone is solely in the tube game to collect, sell, and turn profits, then I completely agree with your post.  But, if someone is in the tube game to enjoy the sound, I think your response is a bit of an over-reaction.  He's already got the tubes, why shouldn't he use them and enjoy them?  Electrically speaking, they are matched regardless of the silkscreen name painting on the tube.
 
And, glue could wear out without being mishandled.  Oxidation happens.  Just go into your grandma's basement and pull a 30-year can of peas off the shelf.  That can hasn't been touched in 30 years, but as soon as you look at it, the paper label falls off because the glue broke down. 
 
Quote:

    
It should not matter the age of a tube if its loose bass its loose, its that simple. I would not keep them unless you got them cheap and like the way they sound.
For resale a miss matched set is not very good, and then you add a flaw like a loose base. You are just asking for a problem.
And yes as I have been saying all along you always insert and remove a tube with a bass from it's bass only.
Older value tubes used a less environmentally friendly glue so there fore if it was handled properly chances are the bass would not come loose.

 

[sillysally]

I never said he should not use and enjoy them if he likes them and didn't pay up for them. If he paid up for the tubes then he did get taken.
 
Chances are these tubes are ok with a loose bass, but why take chances. It is what it is, and sugar coating doesn't help anybody to learn.
The idea behind what I am saying is know what you are doing when you buy tubes, there are two many scam artist's out there.
 
I said miss matched because of the different brands. However the only way I know to be sure that they are balanced is using a calibrated tube tester. But then again maybe your grandma can tell by shaking these tubes if they are a balanced set.
 
I am sorry but we are not talking about canned vegetables we are talking about quality tubes.

 

[hodgjy]

Well, I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree. 

 
National is just a rebadged Tung-Sol.  I don't think the seller was a scam artist.  He disclosed all info about tube brands in the sale.  The seller disclosed performance from a calibrated tester.  If the info was honest, they are matched tubes.
 
I personally see no risk of using a tube with a loose base other than improperly handling it and damaging it more.  The loose base will not affect the electrons, the sound, or any aspect of its electrical performance.  That's my call.  I respect your opinion to not use them.  Cheers, my friend.

 

[sillysally]

No you are wrong we do agree. As I have said I don't think in most cases a loose bass on a tube like that is a bad thing, however its not ideal.
 
And you are also right, I would throw those 30 year old peas out and not take any chances on eating them.

 
Peace.

 

[Clayton SF]

Quote:

I said miss matched because of the different brands. However the only way I know to be sure that they are balanced is using a calibrated tube tester. But then again maybe your grandma can tell by shaking these tubes if they are a balanced set.
 

LOL. You guys made my morning at work (shhhhhhhh).

 

[hodgjy]

Ditto.  That's what I like about the Woo forum.  We're all a good group of chaps that get along well.  Cheers, my friend.
 
Quote:

Peace.

 

[Xcalibur255]

Music is supposed to be a joyous thing.  I've always wondered why, then, is there so much malice and arguing on forums dealing with audio equipment?  Our owners thread here is probably the nicest internet forum thread I have ever had the privilege of being a part of.  Nothing but good vibes around here. 

 

[Icenine2]

Woo coming soon.  Should I handle new tubes with gloves to avoid oils to glass?  Last tubes I changed were on my Mesa/Boogie(1977) guitar amp.
 
A sidestep off-topic:  I realized the other day that all the music I listened to in the mid sixties on my parents "stereo-console" was tubed.

 

[jc9394]

I use a micro fiber to clean any oil after I insert or remove the tubes.

 

[mikemalter]

Quote:

I use a micro fiber to clean any oil after I insert or remove the tubes.

I use a pair of cotton gloves.  I never touch a tube glass with my fingers.

 

 

[mikemalter]

Have a few questions.  At the risk of reopening a sensitive topic about a recent tube purchase, I am only doing this to deepen my understanding of tubes.
 
I recently purchased a pair of 6AS7G tubes.  The seller on ebay said they were Tung-sol tubes.  One was branded Tung-sol Chatham and the other National.  The seller said the manufacturer code was the same on both tubes.  
 
On looking at them, the one branded Tung-sol has a number of 322DN3 and the other tube branded National has the number 3226305.  Can I take it that the 322 portion of the number is the Tung-sol manufacturer code?  It is after that 322 which is different.  I'm including photos of the tubes and listing physical differences they have.
 

 
Don't know what the part is called, but you can see the contrast of the copper tube going up the middle of the tube.  Also, please note the silvery stuff at the bottom of the tube.  This is the Tung-sol Chatham tube and it has that copper part and the shiny stuff at the bottom.  The other tube, branded National does not use copper for this part, and there is no silvery stuff at the bottom as you can see.
 

 
The other differences are at the top of the tube.  The one branded Tung-sol Chatham is clear and the one branded National has silvery stuff up there.

 
So my questions are:
 

• Does the copper have any sonic value over the non-copper?
• What does the silvery stuff at the bottom of the tube do and does its presence/absence have any sonic consequences?
• What does the silvery stuff at the top of the tube do, and like #2 above, does its presence/absence have any sonic consequences?

 
From a vendor who is looking at tubes from the perspective of manufacturer codes, it would make sense to me that they would see them as the same.  However from a music listener perspective, are they the same?  From the perspective of listening, the amp sounds better with them in, so I moved in the right direction which is good.  Would I want to keep my eye out for another tube that is more like the one with the copper parts?  I am very new to tube rolling, and have a lot to learn, so I am interested in the different perspectives out there regarding the match of tubes.
 
One last question.  I am breaking in a different pair of power tubes, this time what look like a "matched" pair of RCA 6AS7G's.  Everyone once in a while I am hearing a very quick pop in my left earphone that is not a result of the music or line-noise.  I heard one on the right side.  I have never heard tubes pop like that.  Should I return these tubes?
 
Thanks.

 

[dariusf]

Hi guys, looking to be a part of the club

 
Any GES out there looking for a new home? 

 

[Skylab]

Quote:

Woo coming soon.  Should I handle new tubes with gloves to avoid oils to glass?  
 

 
It's a complete myth that such treatment is necessary.  Do it if it makes you feel better, but it's not at all needed.  But don't touch hot tubes at all, or you may burn your skin

 
 


Quote:

So my questions are:
 

• Does the copper have any sonic value over the non-copper?
• What does the silvery stuff at the bottom of the tube do and does its presence/absence have any sonic consequences?
• What does the silvery stuff at the top of the tube do, and like #2 above, does its presence/absence have any sonic consequences?

 
From a vendor who is looking at tubes from the perspective of manufacturer codes, it would make sense to me that they would see them as the same.  However from a music listener perspective, are they the same?  From the perspective of listening, the amp sounds better with them in, so I moved in the right direction which is good.  Would I want to keep my eye out for another tube that is more like the one with the copper parts?  I am very new to tube rolling, and have a lot to learn, so I am interested in the different perspectives out there regarding the match of tubes.
 
One last question.  I am breaking in a different pair of power tubes, this time what look like a "matched" pair of RCA 6AS7G's.  Everyone once in a while I am hearing a very quick pop in my left earphone that is not a result of the music or line-noise.  I heard one on the right side.  I have never heard tubes pop like that.  Should I return these tubes?
 
Thanks.

1. That's a support rod.  I've never thought there was any reason to believe the material it's made out of matters at all.
 
2. The "silvery material" is getter flashing, and it's presence shows the location of the getter.  The function of the getter was to eliminate the last bit of air in the vacuum when the tube was first fired up, and the chemical reaction causes the flashing.
The shape and location of the getter can indicate a specific tube construction, and as such can be a tip-off about a certain variant of tube which will have it's own sonic properties, but I'm not convinced that the location of the getter matters at all, in and of itself.
 
3. Same as above.
 
I'm pretty anal, and so I like the tubes I use to be identical when used in pairs.  But I'm not sure that a top or side getter on an otherwise identical tube really matters.
 
Regarding the popping, I would replace that tube - it sounds like it might be arcing.

 

[mikemalter]

Quote:

1. That's a support rod.  I've never thought there was any reason to believe the material it's made out of matters at all.
 
2. The "silvery material" is getter flashing, and it's presence shows the location of the getter.  The function of the getter was to eliminate the last bit of air in the vacuum when the tube was first fired up, and the chemical reaction causes the flashing.
The shape and location of the getter can indicate a specific tube construction, and as such can be a tip-off about a certain variant of tube which will have it's own sonic properties, but I'm not convinced that the location of the getter matters at all, in and of itself.
 
3. Same as above.
 
I'm pretty anal, and so I like the tubes I use to be identical when used in pairs.  But I'm not sure that a top or side getter on an otherwise identical tube really matters.
 
Regarding the popping, I would replace that tube - it sounds like it might be arcing.

 
Thanks for addressing my concerns about the materials inside of the tube.  Also, I am finding that even with the differences in construction and materials,  these guys are sounding really great, and it's a big boost sonically, and after 20 hours they are really starting to smooth out.
 
Regarding the other tubes, the ones that were popping.  I got them from Arizona Tube Supply, and when Dave Hollander got my email about the problem, he called me right away.  He is a really great guy to do business with and he is going to make it right ASAP.