[bpcans]

@Promee, if your pleasure is buying new audio gear to try, then go right ahead. Nobody is going to stop you here. I’ve had my WA22 going on four years, and I couldn’t be happier with the way it performs.

 

[AudioDuck]

have already invested a small fortune in power tubes for the WA22 (NOS 5998, a couple pairs of used 421a, near NOS 7236, and others), so I would have a head start on the WA2… Anybody want to talk me out of it? My wife will thank you

Sadly, our slogan here is “enabling is empowering”.

You will meet no resistance to new purchases here, only recommendations on how to spend it as wisely as you can- and ver possibly more than you originally intended!

That said, the WA2 magic is LEGIT. I would say that you can plan to use your 5998s as WA2 power tubes (primary) as well as the 7236s (secondary).

Then you only need 1-2 pairs of great input (driver?) tubes- preferably 12A-7s with a good pair of adapters from Deyan here on the forum or Pulse Tube Store.

You can “get away with” Brimar 1957 Footscray-production CV455s (https://www.langrex.co.uk/products/12at7-cv455-brimar-triple-mica-ring-getter-nos-valve-tube-lb3/) for ~$100/pair and be very happy, then email Brent Jessee later and spent $300-400 on top-drawer 12-7s to your liking/sound preferences. Or go all-out and blow $600-1000 on Telefunken G-73Rs… but I’d only take TWO of those steps rather than all three, unless you have a big budget.

If you get a WA2 + adapters + CV455s, you’re out about $1400-$1500 unless you pay full MSRP for a new WA2 (which is an option). If the latter, ~$1700 plus tax and shipping where that applies.

Down the road, I’d recommend a power cord and fuse upgrade to any new WA2, but that’s a more controversial topic.

 

[Promee]

Sadly, our slogan here is “enabling is empowering”.

You will meet no resistance to new purchases here, only recommendations on how to spend it as wisely as you can- and ver possibly more than you originally intended!

That said, the WA2 magic is LEGIT. I would say that you can plan to use your 5998s as WA2 power tubes (primary) as well as the 7236s (secondary).

Then you only need 1-2 pairs of great input (driver?) tubes- preferably 12A-7s with a good pair of adapters from Deyan here on the forum or Pulse Tube Store.

You can “get away with” Brimar 1957 Footscray-production CV455s (https://www.langrex.co.uk/products/12at7-cv455-brimar-triple-mica-ring-getter-nos-valve-tube-lb3/) for ~$100/pair and be very happy, then email Brent Jessee later and spent $300-400 on top-drawer 12-7s to your liking/sound preferences. Or go all-out and blow $600-1000 on Telefunken G-73Rs… but I’d only take TWO of those steps rather than all three, unless you have a big budget.

If you get a WA2 + adapters + CV455s, you’re out about $1400-$1500 unless you pay full MSRP for a new WA2 (which is an option). If the latter, ~$1700 plus tax and shipping where that applies.

Down the road, I’d recommend a power cord and fuse upgrade to any new WA2, but that’s a more controversial topic.

I love that slogan! And yeah, I pulled the trigger from the Woo Audio site and ordered it with the rectifier upgrade they offer. I also ordered some Mundorf Supreme Evo Silvergold coupling caps like I used in my other amps. You are spot on that I now need drivers. I didn’t see any 12-7 variants in the compatibility list, and I’ll admit I’m ignorant about this species of tubes. Will something like a 12AX7 work here?

 

[AudioDuck]

I love that slogan! And yeah, I pulled the trigger from the Woo Audio site and ordered it with the rectifier upgrade they offer. I also ordered some Mundorf Supreme Evo Silvergold coupling caps like I used in my other amps. You are spot on that I now need drivers. I didn’t see any 12-7 variants in the compatibility list, and I’ll admit I’m ignorant about this species of tubes. Will something like a 12AX7 work here?

Congratulations! We look forward to your reactions once you get it and start enjoying it.

So the older WA2s DO allow for 12AT7/12AX7/12AU7-type tubes with physical adapters (as noted above), and I strongly suspect the new amps do too.

BUT you should absolutely reach out to Woo Audio and confirm. Worst case you’ll use 6922-family tubes instead (there are some fun variations there too), but if Woo gives the green light for 12-7s still, that’s where the greatest quality gains lie IMHO.

 

[skhan007]

I love that slogan! And yeah, I pulled the trigger from the Woo Audio site and ordered it with the rectifier upgrade they offer. I also ordered some Mundorf Supreme Evo Silvergold coupling caps like I used in my other amps. You are spot on that I now need drivers. I didn’t see any 12-7 variants in the compatibility list, and I’ll admit I’m ignorant about this species of tubes. Will something like a 12AX7 work here?

Pretty sure a 12ax7 is too high gain, but double check with Woo or other current owners. I’m a fan of the RCA clear top 12au7 in other similar amps and suspect it would do well in the WA2, if it can take 12a-7 type tubes (I actually don’t know).

 

[AudioDuck]

Pretty sure a 12ax7 is too high gain, but double check with Woo or other current owners. I’m a fan of the RCA clear top 12au7 in other similar amps and suspect it would do well in the WA2, if it can take 12a-7 type tubes (I actually don’t know).

My older WA2 works well with both 12AX7s and 12AU7s, my only potential concern on @Promee ’s behalf is if Woo has changed the WA2’s circuits over time and the newer units aren’t able to use those tube types.

 

[Promee]

Congratulations! We look forward to your reactions once you get it and start enjoying it.

So the older WA2s DO allow for 12AT7/12AX7/12AU7-type tubes with physical adapters (as noted above), and I strongly suspect the new amps do too.

BUT you should absolutely reach out to Woo Audio and confirm. Worst case you’ll use 6922-family tubes instead (there are some fun variations there too), but if Woo gives the green light for 12-7s still, that’s where the greatest quality gains lie IMHO.

Email sent! We shall see what they say…

 

[Promee]

So, while I’m waiting to hear back about the 12-7 tubes, I’m reading about 6922 variants, and wow, my head is spinning! I fired off another email to Brent Jesse to see if a few of the 7308 variants on his site are still in stock. I have never had an amp based on these drivers and the amount of info out there is mind boggling. At minimum, even if I can use the 12-7 tubes, which will also require some serious research, I’m sure I will want to try a pair or two from the 6922 family and have them around for synergy purposes.

Anyone have suggestions for any varieties to consider? This would apply to 6922, and feel free to throw any recommendations that might fit from the 12-7 family in case I’m able to use them. My preferences: musical over analytical; neutral as opposed to bright or warm, but if I have to lean one way, slightly warm. Mids are the most important part of the spectrum for me and tonal density here makes me very happy. Plentiful and well-articulated bass are nice bonuses. Treble I really don’t care as long as it is not sibilant. Extended or rolled off can both be just fine once I’m in the zone. If it is harsh or sibilant at all, it will never get used.

I will be listening primarily with HD 600 and ZMF Atrium open. For power tubes, mostly I will be using WE 421a and TS 7236. I have several other options in that family though (5998, 5998a, 6H13C, 6080) if there are recommended combos I might be able to try. Also, I might off-load some of those (not the 5998, sorry, but I have a pair of 5998a that I could part with) if people are interested.

If it is helpful at all as a reference, in 6SN7, I really liked Psvane CV181 mkII before the quality fell apart. I also liked the Shuguang WE replicas, and I am currently spending time popping back and forth between the LinLai Elite and Grant Fidelity special edition 6SN7, both of which I have been loving. I have not loved the Electroharmonix 6SN7, and I’m lukewarm on some 1950s RCA ones. I have also been a bigger fan of Chinese KT-88 than Russian new production.

I know that’s a massive wish list, but there are a huge number of tubes to pick from, and I know the people here are some of the most knowledgeable, so why not go for perfection on the first shot?!?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

 

[stereonerd]

Just picked up a set of Abyss Diana 2s, on sound quality and “tube sound” alone between the WA7 (3) and WA8 which is a better choice?

 

[AudioDuck]

Anyone have suggestions for any varieties to consider? This would apply to 6922, and feel free to throw any recommendations that might fit from the 12-7 family in case I’m able to use them. My preferences: musical over analytical; neutral as opposed to bright or warm, but if I have to lean one way, slightly warm. Mids are the most important part of the spectrum for me…

I will be listening primarily with HD 600 and ZMF Atrium open. For power tubes, mostly I will be using WE 421a and TS 7236. I have several other options in that family though (5998, 5998a, 6H13C, 6080) if there are recommended combos I might be able to try.

My experience with 6922-family tubes is limited to usage with the Feliks Echo amp, but I’d be shocked if the WA2 experience is any different.

Based on that-

• Mullard 6922s gravitate towards warm, full mids. I’ve only heard one NOS set, so unfortunately I’m no help regarding more details… but I’ve always found that the “British sound” of tubes suits me best and is probably your ticket based on your description- ie Brimars and Mullards. Full mids that are warmer than neutral, solid bass without getting plummy or over-ripe, and decent treble extension without notable roll-off. The Achilles heel of British tubes is arguably sparkly and airy treble, but horses for courses, as they say.
• I had an excellent pair of NOS Amperex 7308s that had a ton of bass slam, were super-quiet, and fairly detailed throughout the tonal range. These days I’d likely use a good Mullard instead, though, as the Amperex pair hewed more towards a solid-state sound and the Mullards don’t give up much in the slam or details, while adding warmth and midrange warmth.

There is also a decent WA2 tube rolling thread I recommend here, as well as a very good Amps & Sound Pendant tube rolling thread that is helpful for 12-7-type tubes.

EDIT: Brent J is a great person to ask though, he won’t steer you wrong. If you know what sound sig you want, I’d highly recommend spending as much as you can comfortably do on one, maybe two pairs of tubes in that sound vein…

Chasing “bargain tubes” that may or may not be to your liking (or have flaws like excessive noise) is in my experience an expensive fool’s errand, unless blowing cash and experimenting is your thing (and if you can afford that, cool).

 

[Promee]

My experience with 6922-family tubes is limited to usage with the Feliks Echo amp, but I’d be shocked if the WA2 experience is any different.

Based on that-

• Mullard 6922s gravitate towards warm, full mids. I’ve only heard one NOS set, so unfortunately I’m no help regarding more details… but I’ve always found that the “British sound” of tubes suits me best and is probably your ticket based on your description- ie Brimars and Mullards. Full mids that are warmer than neutral, solid bass without getting plummy or over-ripe, and decent treble extension without notable roll-off. The Achilles heel of British tubes is arguably sparkly and airy treble, but horses for courses, as they say.
• I had an excellent pair of NOS Amperex 7308s that had a ton of bass slam, were super-quiet, and fairly detailed throughout the tonal range. These days I’d likely use a good Mullard instead, though, as the Amperex pair hewed more towards a solid-state sound and the Mullards don’t give up much in the slam or details, while adding warmth and midrange warmth.

There is also a decent WA2 tube rolling thread I recommend here, as well as a very good Amps & Sound Pendant tube rolling thread that is helpful for 12-7-type tubes.

EDIT: Brent J is a great person to ask though, he won’t steer you wrong. If you know what sound sig you want, I’d highly recommend spending as much as you can comfortably do on one, maybe two pairs of tubes in that sound vein…

Chasing “bargain tubes” that may or may not be to your liking (or have flaws like excessive noise) is in my experience an expensive fool’s errand, unless blowing cash and experimenting is your thing (and if you can afford that, cool).

Amen to that, I have also learned the hard way about throwing a ton of cash into middling tubes only to find that the top shelf ones are top shelf for a reason. Thanks for the advice! I had a pair each of Mullard and Amperex 7308s on my list for him to check on availability, so I’m glad to hear that I’m not totally off base from the jump… I appreciate other threads to check on, and I will definitely take a look at them!

 

[Whazzzup]

Ta 274b, kr2a3, and 417a/5842 WE. for my wa 33 ee. The rectifier is in just waiting for driver and power tubes

 

[jerick70]

I am a big fan of this dongle. Mine shipped with a faulty switch, but Woo fixed it right away. This thing sounds awesome with all my headphones, but I especially like it with my HD 600. I’m not a big fan of Sabre DACs generally, but this implementation is awesome, and I really dig it. It’s a bit quirky, as has been mentioned in the videos on it, but probably less so than your average tube amp. Just know that it has a tiny bit of learning curve relative to a regular dongle. Overall, this little guy is a beast, and I highly recommend it for tubes on the go!

I have done a bit of testing with it for power use, etc. and you can find that and lots of other opinions in this thread:

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/woo-audio-tube-mini-balanced-headphone-amplifier-dac.969165

Thanks for your opinion on the Tube Mini. I'll probably pick one up.

Looking for opinions from people who have owned a WA22 and a WA2 or have listened to them for an extended period.

I am a relatively new owner of a WA22, and I absolutely love it, but my audiophile FOMO is kicking in and now I’m having trouble shaking the idea that I need to try a SET amp, and I figure I might as well go OTL while I’m at it. I have already invested a small fortune in power tubes for the WA22 (NOS 5998, a couple pairs of used 421a, near NOS 7236, and others), so I would have a head start on the WA2… Anybody want to talk me out of it? My wife will thank you

Can I recommend the WA5-LE? I had the WA22 and then upgraded to the WA5. What a HUGE upgrade. I actually was in your same boat when I had the WA22. I was looking at the WA2 but ended up going to the WA5. The OTL topology of the WA2 limits the headphones you can use with it.

 

[George Chronis]

Can I recommend the WA5-LE? I had the WA22 and then upgraded to the WA5. What a HUGE upgrade. I actually was in your same boat when I had the WA22. I was looking at the WA2 but ended up going to the WA5. The OTL topology of the WA2 limits the headphones you can use with it.

Agreed with this. I did the same. No comparison. If you can get a used one, get a used one to save a bit. And you don't have to tube roll much with the WA5 or WA5-LE. Get a few pairs of 6SN7s maybe and one pair of good 300Bs and rectifiers, and you'll be super. Plays everything from ZMFs to planars to HD800 with authority and a very nice timbre. Even with stock tubes, I think it's a great upgrade from the WA22. And I actually really liked the WA22; don't mean to bash it or anything.

 

[skhan007]

Agreed with this. I did the same. No comparison. If you can get a used one, get a used one to save a bit. And you don't have to tube roll much with the WA5 or WA5-LE. Get a few pairs of 6SN7s maybe and one pair of good 300Bs and rectifiers, and you'll be super. Plays everything from ZMFs to planars to HD800 with authority and a very nice timbre. Even with stock tubes, I think it's a great upgrade from the WA22. And I actually really liked the WA22; don't mean to bash it or anything.

Wow, this is something for me to research. I've only recently acquired my WA22 and love it. If the WA5-LE is superior, I'd love to hear it some time.