I have never changed a fuse in my gear so I have no opinion from my personal experience on this topic
I have read of some members loving this fuse below in their wa2.
If anyone wants to try it it appears to have a 30 day return guarantee - so no risk
I have never changed a fuse in my gear so I have no opinion from my personal experience on this topic
I have read of some members loving this fuse below in their wa2.
If anyone wants to try it it appears to have a 30 day return guarantee - so no risk
Incredibly grateful that I was able to get my WA2. With Tung-Sol 7236 power tubes, RFT EZ-81 (foil getter) rectifiers, and Brimar CV 4003/12AU7s driving ZMF Eikons, it is amazing with jazz, pop, and rock.
Good recordings have air, wide soundstaging, deep-deep/textured bass, and liquid, organic midrange. The above is a great combination, highly recommended.
The move from 7308s to 12AU7s (with adapters) was very significant- the amount of air added and the expansion of the soundstage is remarkable.
I could see using 7308s for EDM and any music that benefits from SERIOUS punch and über-tight bass, but for the other genres I listen to, the adapters + the move to 12AX7-type tubes was a big step up.
If you have a WA2 and are curious about the combos above, hit me up via DM.
The power transformers get warm, as they should, in use. With a large surface area, they cool down reasonably quickly after the WA2 is turned off. The tubes cool off quickly.
I had a WA-6SE paired with the HD800's and it was excellent. I only sold it because I wanted to run all balanced so I moved up to a WA-22. I'm not familiar with the WA-2 other than it's an OTL. Tube rolling for the WA-6SE is not very expensive unless you go crazy and buy some ultra-expensive rectifier. The driver/power tubes are fairly common and you can find them at reasonable prices almost anywhere.
I have a 2nd Generation WA6SE with the 13DE7 driver tube sockets. Initially, I had my doubts about not being able to roll 12AT7 tubes etc; but, there are some very nice sounding 13DE7s out there. My favourite is the ‘yellow print’ Sylvania. Those with the Brimar CV1863 rectifier tube = .
I'm not familiar with the WA-2 other than it's an OTL. Tube rolling for the WA-6SE is not very expensive unless you go crazy and buy some ultra-expensive rectifier. The driver/power tubes are fairly common and you can find them at reasonable prices almost anywhere.
While I don’t know how “full-bodied” the midrange of the HD-800/S might be with the WA2, it definitely works well with the midrange of ZMF 300 Ohm headphones. Very organic, strong midrange presence- “you are there” feeling.
Tube rolling for the WA2 is generally reasonable, with a set of NOS power tubes costing $75-100. That’s what I’ve paid for 7236s, which are quite good- I love mine- 6080s (decent backups), and other alternatives. The “holy grail” power tubes can cost $250-500 a pair, but honestly the amp sounds incredible with 7236s.
Great rectifier tubes cost $50-60 a pair, and driver (or are they “input tubes”? I’m always confused) can cost $50-200 for 6922/7308s or similar, BUT thanks to @jonathan c and @billerb1 I’ve learned how amazing 12AX7-family tubes are… much better performance for the cost ($75-100 for incredible NOS tubes). But you will need adapters, which usually cost $50-60.
So ultimately tube rolling to ONE excellent set of NOS tubes for a WA2 will cost about $300, if you are selective and patient (including adapters for the input tubes). But then you also have the WA2 running at near-top quality.
And usually pre-owned WA2s sell with some decent tubes included, so you can wait to invest that extra money. And given pre-owned WA2s sell for about $800-900, you would have an end-game tube amp for about $1200, which is pretty impressive.
(I would also recommend a fuse upgrade, but that is a contentious topic as some folks don’t believe you can hear the difference, but whatever- I know what I’m hearing. )
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