[spritzer]

Cooling amps is a very bad idea.  Most components are designed to run at a given temperature and are setup when they reach that temp.  That means the circuit is most linear when warmed up so placing active cooling defeats the whole point.  These are not computer processors... 

 

[DefQon]

I can so imagine a certain poster here (who claimed sound improvements with 2000 hr burn in) doing something such as actively cooling one of the Stax amps and then telling us about the wonderful sound improvements its given. Lol

 

[3X0]

This isn't a Stax, but you guys are probably the only surviving help I have with regards to one of these since I'm sure it's an analogous part:
 


 
 
Does anyone know how I can clean this? Bearing in mind I have absolutely no electrical experience and have no idea what I'm looking at here.
 
I tried lightly blowing on it but there's still some bothersome-looking dust and even a few specks of pleather on the inside surface (second image). Was it even safe to have gone this far?
 
EDIT: Closed it back up, fired it up and it seems to play fine -- so no damage done. Would still like to clean the grime from it somehow though. Given the sensitivity of the part I understand it might not be possible though.
 
It still sounds fine to me despite the underlying dirtiness so I'll just leave it alone if it's ill-advised.

 

[Warpkitty]

Quote:

I wil try and check this stuff out first before I buy and since I need to prepare my life (sell, save, give up something!) for such a big purchase, I will have time to mull everything over. I missed the meet that was here last month, so hopefully one will come up again.
 
I might jam out too and go for the non-TOTL option 

 
I'm afraid of the BHSE.

Haha. Economic prudence prevailed and in the end that's just what I did. My little cheapo Stax system should arrive later this week!
 
I will report back.

 

[spritzer]

You could use some packaging tape with very weak adhesive.  Apply it gently and it should remove all the particles and leave the nylon mesh in one piece. 

 

[Michgelsen]

Great, do you like it?
I had a chance to try out the 2050 system friday, and I found it to be a great combo. Definitely a bargain at second hand prices. The SR-202 was a bit better out of my SRM-717 than out of the SRM-252II, but not by so much that such an upgrade would be worth the money IMO.
 
Quote:

Yay, I'm now the proud owner of a Stax 2020 system!

 

[mechgamer123]

Would anyone out there with an SRM-212 be so kind as to take a picture of the back of the amp, specifically the power connector area? Thanks

 

[3X0]

Quote:

You could use some packaging tape with very weak adhesive.  Apply it gently and it should remove all the particles and leave the nylon mesh in one piece. 

Thanks, that should more than take care of the side facing the grill. How about the side facing the ears? I imagine given the lack of a nylon film there this area is a no-go and I'll have to either live with those debris or buy new elements.
 
I remember reading some complaints about the HE60's dust protection from you earlier -- is this representative of the problem?

 

[grokit]

Quote:

Would anyone out there with an SRM-212 be so kind as to take a picture of the back of the amp, specifically the power connector area? Thanks

 
I found this one, seems pretty simple
 

 

[davidsh]

Quote:

Cooling amps is a very bad idea.  Most components are designed to run at a given temperature and are setup when they reach that temp.  That means the circuit is most linear when warmed up so placing active cooling defeats the whole point.  These are not computer processors... 

You are probably right about that. I could try writing to Stax...

 

[Argybargy]

KGSSHV SUCCESSOR
 
Am I wrong in the impression that the DIY electrostatic amp scene is really quiet, with no PCBs currently being produced for designs from the last 5 or so years?
 
Is there a successor to the KGSSHV on the way?  I assume it would largely remain unchanged with a few subs for obsolete parts and the changes that would entail?
 
I'm finding that my new O2 MK1 (earliest version) needs a little more juice than the SRM 007T can provide; even though it still sounds awesome

 

[Chris J]

The reason I grounded my system was because of the buzz. Additionally, when a system is not grounded, you can often feel a bit of electricity when you touch a case. It feels a bit as if it's vibrating a little when you swipe your finger across the case. That will be gone too when you ground it. If none of that is bothering you, then you should be ok without grounding. Your house is probably fitted with a residual-current device, which covers the safety part for the most part already.

There is something very wrong with this!
You should NOt get a shock when you touch your audio equipment, or any household equipment!
Is there something wrong with your house wiring?

 

[mechgamer123]

Quote:

Quote:

Would anyone out there with an SRM-212 be so kind as to take a picture of the back of the amp, specifically the power connector area? Thanks

 
I found this one, seems pretty simple
 

Hmm, I need something like this so I can see what the voltage and polarity of the power plug so I can get a US transformer that works: 

 

[kevin gilmore]

srm-Xh, srm-212,srm-252 are all exactly the same. 12 volts, 4 watts, outside is plus.
All are the same connector.
I own the first two, birgir now owns the 3rd. Do not use an unregulated transformer.
Switcher inside is not regulated, to high a voltage and parts fly.
12 volts 1 amp minimum.

 

[wuwhere]

Quote:

Hmm, I need something like this so I can see what the voltage and polarity of the power plug so I can get a US transformer that works: 

 
The center pin on that amp is negative. Usually it is positive so buy one that has a negative center pin. Also, you need to know the diameter of that hole and the center pin so you can get the right size.