The Stax thread (New)
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Mar 24, 2013 at 4:53 AM Post #21,541 of 24,807
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I had that AR-XA/Shure V15/III combo for years with my Dynaco A25s and an AR Receiver and Superex Pro B V phones. Spent many many hours with that rig and felt on top of the world. 

Ah, the AR Receiver.  Great looking product, classy. Really excellent tuner  as I recall.  I've only ever seen one of them, at a HiFi store in Milwaukee.
 
http://classicreceivers.com/acoustic-research-ar-model-r
 
 

 
Mar 24, 2013 at 10:32 AM Post #21,542 of 24,807
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Can't say I've been fortunate enough to hear an SR-007 or other Omega-series setup, but those are the only words I could find to describe how differently the SR-202's midrange sounds.
 
Also consider that we may be looking for different things in the overall sound presentation; the SR-202 experience actually taught me that I was a midrangehead/vocalhead all along, and didn't really know it 'til after I had a suitable headphone to pit against the ol' SR-Lambda. Some may find the SR-202 signature more preferable, though, particularly those fond of headphones like the HE-400.
 
I just wanted to make the case that vintage Lambda setups should not be overlooked as starter Stax setups due to their age, especially Normal bias ones.

 
 
Say that the SR-Lambda Pro has the same midrange with more fuller lowrange or completely different?
 
Mar 24, 2013 at 11:10 AM Post #21,543 of 24,807
Mar 24, 2013 at 12:45 PM Post #21,544 of 24,807
my friend is in Akihabara, Tokyo. Where can he buy( / audition ? ) STAX SR009 ? nearby , easy to reach areas are fine as well.
 
i asked him to get a quote for the same , but today he searched some famous electronics market, could not find a trace of stax.
 
Mar 24, 2013 at 7:42 PM Post #21,545 of 24,807
Looking to replace a unit with a new cable ( the SR-404 cable )
Is there any exact type of solder that people prefer for this , assuming I can't reuse what's already in place, and assuming it'll make any difference?
 
BTW this is a necessary thing not a tweak.
wink_face.gif
The old cable as i received this has deteriorated beyond help.
 
Mar 25, 2013 at 2:44 AM Post #21,547 of 24,807
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Say that the SR-Lambda Pro has the same midrange with more fuller lowrange or completely different?

Since I own both the LP and 202 currently, the LP is more smoother and enjoyable to my ears than my 202. The 202 is slightly more brighter the LP has a better bass response, more warmer actually.
 
Quote:
Looking to replace a unit with a new cable ( the SR-404 cable )
Is there any exact type of solder that people prefer for this , assuming I can't reuse what's already in place, and assuming it'll make any difference?
 
BTW this is a necessary thing not a tweak.
wink_face.gif
The old cable as i received this has deteriorated beyond help.

Most should be fine, just don't use pure-silver solder especially the Cardas one's for soldering.
 
Quote:
i am thinking about trying out some stax headphones, something along the lines of sr40s but i have a question regarding the size of the cups, are they large enough to fit over the ear?

 
The whole electret line SR-30 up to the baby Lambda junior SR-80 all sit on your ears with minimal or very little clamping force from the headband. It is actually quite comfortable when I had my SR-40's they could sit on my ears for 6 hours a day and I would not feel a thing.
 
Mar 25, 2013 at 5:30 AM Post #21,548 of 24,807
Quote:
Looking to replace a unit with a new cable ( the SR-404 cable )
Is there any exact type of solder that people prefer for this , assuming I can't reuse what's already in place, and assuming it'll make any difference?
 
BTW this is a necessary thing not a tweak.
wink_face.gif
The old cable as i received this has deteriorated beyond help.

 
I have never soldered a Stax cable into a Stax earspeaker set, but I am sure it can be done.
 
I think using normal rosin-core 60 / 40 solder will work just fine; you can buy this at hardware stores, Radio Shack, etc.  It is best for delicate work like this to use the THINNEST solder you can find.   Radio Shack SKU# 64-002  is a 1.5 oz spool of 0.062" thick rosin-core solder (42.5 g, 1.6 mm) sells for $9 or so. This will work OK.   Thinner solder, like Kester 0.031" and 0.015" solder is available, check Amazon.com among others.  With the thinner solder it is a little easier to control how much solder you use to join the work.
 
 
The rosin inside the solder acts as a flux which cleans the metal surfaces of the copper wires just before they are joined; removing the thin layer of oxide from the copper wire allows the molten tin/lead of the solder to wet the copper, forming a metal-to-metal bond that is both electrically conductive and fairly strong in mechanical terms.
 
 
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER.  Acid core solder is for mending gutters and making stained glass stuff.  No good for electronics!
 
There are some snake oil, er I mean, "audio tweak" solders, most of which contain some silver, for which unsubstantiated claims of better sound have been made. To date, none of these claims have been objectively proven. 
 
There are also lead-free solders available, produced as part of the electronics' industry's effort to avoid contaminating the environment with lead, which can be converted into toxic organometallic forms if disposed of in landfills. I have not used lead-free solder so I can't advise if it's easy to use or not. I dispose of all my electronic junk by selling it on eBay rather than putting it in the landfill.  (Seriously, all the useless and broken electronics from my house go into a box in my garage, and then once or twice a year I make a trip to a local electronics recycler who recovers what can be recovered and disposes of the rest in approved fashion.)
 
Do not use a big-ass Wen soldering gun.  A temperature controlled soldering station is best- Elenco and Hakko make the better models, although there are other ones available as well. The Radio Shack model 64-053 is pretty good and is compatible with Hakko series 900M tips. If you don't plan to be doing much soldering, then you may not want to spend the dough on a good soldering rig, and for this job any 15~25 watt soldering pencil should work OK. DO NOT get a soldering iron larger than 25 watts.
 
I have never found a cordless soldering tool I liked for this kind of work, so it's probably best to avoid those.
 
IF YOU HAVE NEVER SOLDERED BEFORE  I suggest you do NOT attempt this until you practice doing some soldering.  It takes a little practice to know where best to apply the soldering tip, how long to hold it in order to heat the work but not melt everything around it, how much solder to use, etc.
 
ALSO:  be very careful  near the drivers with the soldering pencil -  they have very delicate dust covers and so on, just a touch of that 850 degree iron can destroy their integrity.
 
Mar 25, 2013 at 6:57 AM Post #21,549 of 24,807
As was discussed earlier in the thread, any soldering without fully covering the drivers will likely result in holes in the dust seal and possibly even the diaphragm because of the flux "sputter".  
 
Mar 25, 2013 at 7:18 AM Post #21,550 of 24,807
Not likely as long as you have a steady hand and get the job done quickly enough without applying too much heat into one area. I know this because I re-terminated my LP and re-flowed the solder on the 202 that I restored without any of the mentioned problems.
 
Mar 25, 2013 at 9:35 AM Post #21,551 of 24,807
Hi everyone, this is my first post. I've just received my sr407s, with 323s. I love the sound, but am having a problem with some static noise in the right channel. It sounds a little like whistling or fizzing, and comes and goes. Sometimes the phones are silent and seem fine. It was quite hot and humid when I first noticed it, but the weather has changed and the noise keeps reappearing now and then. Has anyone else experienced this?
 
Mar 25, 2013 at 2:36 PM Post #21,552 of 24,807
I am familiar with the sounds you describe. This could indicate that dust has entered the driver inside the headphones, which should not happen, as the drivers are normally sealed to prevent this. This is unfortunately not repairable, except by replacing the faulty driver. If the headphones are new or still under warranty, I suggest you contact your dealer for a replacement. If you bought them secondhand, well, then you have a bigger problem...
 
I assume you have tried to reverse the left and right channels by swapping the interconnects, to determine that indeed the headphones are at fault, correct?
 
Mar 25, 2013 at 4:12 PM Post #21,553 of 24,807
I heard that sort of occasional whistling noise through a demo SR-007 I once had on trial. The noise didn't happen with other phones on the same amp, so I assumed if was not the amp at fault. I returned the demo phones, so never found out the cause of the noise, but what Michgelsen said seems very reasonable.
 
Mar 25, 2013 at 8:19 PM Post #21,555 of 24,807
Quote:
 
I think using normal rosin-core 60 / 40 solder will work just fine; you can buy this at hardware stores, Radio Shack, etc.  It is best for delicate work like this to use the THINNEST solder you can find.   Radio Shack SKU# 64-002  is a 1.5 oz spool of 0.062" thick rosin-core solder (42.5 g, 1.6 mm) sells for $9 or so. This will work OK.   Thinner solder, like Kester 0.031" and 0.015" solder is available, check Amazon.com among others.  With the thinner solder it is a little easier to control how much solder you use to join the work.
!

I have never found a cordless soldering tool I liked for this kind of work, so it's probably best to avoid those.
 
IF YOU HAVE NEVER SOLDERED BEFORE  I suggest you do NOT attempt this until you practice doing some soldering.  It takes a little practice to know where best to apply the soldering tip, how long to hold it in order to heat the work but not melt everything around it, how much solder to use, etc.
 
ALSO:  be very careful  near the drivers with the soldering pencil -  they have very delicate dust covers and so on, just a touch of that 850 degree iron can destroy their integrity.

Thanks for all the replies, nice to know " normal " rosin core stuff works well, it has for any of the other things i used it on, even done a very touchy 70mm Philips electret recable.
 All great replies and appreciated very much.
 
Honestly I dislike the silver stuff but was expecting that to be the suggestion
bigsmile_face.gif

Was going to spring for Cardas stuff but honestly I don't need a roll that will last the rest of my life.
 I've got zero room for error on this particular item, so also covering the drivers up is a welcome suggestion also.
 
Funny thing I am still to this day using some old 1950's(?) hand held thing I inherited from my Grandfather and have it mastered more or less ( did  voice coil with it once even ), still even has a decent tip, not like the newer stuff it seems that burn out, but this project might make me plunge into one of the Hakko units i have been looking for an excuse to buy to nail the temperature properly the first time.
 
Just the thought of getting heat near the moisture guard/dustcovers makes me cringe, maybe i can see about leaving a pigtail of the prexisting contact, hopefully it is not in as bad a shape as the rest of the cable in there.
 
Thanks again to all  for all the reminders and advice.
 
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