The Stax thread (New)
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May 12, 2011 at 2:35 AM Post #15,541 of 24,807
Hello, can someone please help me? I've just bought a used Lambda pro on head fi, but it has channel-imbalance problem. The left side is barely audible, while the right side is normal. I know that the SR1-MK2 amp's volume knob can be used for Left and Right separately. Is there anything I can do to fix this? I have tried to touch the pins and plug the cable back, but that does not help. I try to turn off and turn on the amp again to recharge the phone, but it does not help either. I have checked all the cables and connections, but everything seems normal. Thanks.
 
May 12, 2011 at 3:13 AM Post #15,542 of 24,807
404 drivers installed by Mark from highendworkshop.co.uk. He said it was not an easy job. I did not change the cables.
I used the Sigma Pro instead of the normal bias form the conversion because I have found out I like the normal bias a lot, although the Sigma/404 is much better overall.
BTW, there is a Sigma Pro for sale at Agon for 2500.00 :eek:
That's insane!
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrfull&1310333832&/Stax-sigma-pro-Professional-MI
 
May 12, 2011 at 5:24 PM Post #15,544 of 24,807


Quote:
Hello, can someone please help me? I've just bought a used Lambda pro on head fi, but it has channel-imbalance problem. The left side is barely audible, while the right side is normal. I know that the SR1-MK2 amp's volume knob can be used for Left and Right separately. Is there anything I can do to fix this? I have tried to touch the pins and plug the cable back, but that does not help. I try to turn off and turn on the amp again to recharge the phone, but it does not help either. I have checked all the cables and connections, but everything seems normal. Thanks.



What about the guy you bought it from? Did he disclose this problem? Yiu sure irs not the amp?  Have you looked at the connections in the earcup?.  My guess is a break there or a disconnected electrode.
 


Quote:
404 drivers installed by Mark from highendworkshop.co.uk. He said it was not an easy job. I did not change the cables.
I used the Sigma Pro instead of the normal bias form the conversion because I have found out I like the normal bias a lot, although the Sigma/404 is much better overall.
BTW, there is a Sigma Pro for sale at Agon for 2500.00
eek.gif

That's insane!
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrfull&1310333832&/Stax-sigma-pro-Professional-MI



So I am assuming you like the the Sigma/404 better than both the pro and low bias models.
 
If I had to keep only 2 Sigmas I might do what you did, but for most people the Sigma Pro is a better phone than the low bias Sigma.  The Sigma/404 is closer in sound to the Pro. The Sigma/404 is a bit more refined sounding and has better treble and bass. It scaled up well with the BHSE when I tried it at the LA Canjam.
 
$2,500 for a Sigma Pro, even in mint condition seems a bit much.  Still they are getting harder to find all the time and someone with cash to burn might take them.  Recently one Headfier had to make his own Sigma earcups.  It's too bad Stax doesn't return to this design.
 
 
May 12, 2011 at 11:45 PM Post #15,545 of 24,807


Quote:
So I am assuming you like the the Sigma/404 better than both the pro and low bias models.
 
If I had to keep only 2 Sigmas I might do what you did, but for most people the Sigma Pro is a better phone than the low bias Sigma.  The Sigma/404 is closer in sound to the Pro. The Sigma/404 is a bit more refined sounding and has better treble and bass. It scaled up well with the BHSE when I tried it at the LA Canjam.
 
$2,500 for a Sigma Pro, even in mint condition seems a bit much.  Still they are getting harder to find all the time and someone with cash to burn might take them.  Recently one Headfier had to make his own Sigma earcups.  It's too bad Stax doesn't return to this design.
 

Yes, the Sigma/404 is the better model, but for some reason, I really enjoy the normal bias too. The sound leaner and airer, but to S/404 has more detail and overall better sound.
I have no plans to sell either of them, that's for sure.
 
 
 
May 13, 2011 at 6:04 AM Post #15,546 of 24,807
Where is the best place to buy replacement lambda frames? All of it, without the driver.
 
I have a pet project I want to pursue using them...

Alternatively, does anyone have broken lambdas they'd be willing to part with?
 
May 13, 2011 at 12:46 PM Post #15,547 of 24,807
I just spent a couple of hours listening to my SR-007 mk1 on the SRM-323S. I also own a KGSS, SRM-727A and SRM-007tA. I wasn't expecting much from the 323 with the O2, but I was pleasantly surprised. It drives them absolutely fine even at higher volume than the highest I normally listen to. I haven't found a weakness - highs and mids are fine, the bass is well-controlled and at the right amount, detail is fine, soundstage is fine.
 
In fact, the 323 sounds better wth the O2 than the 007t which suffers from overwhelming flabby bass, and also better than the 727 which also has an unnatural bass unless modded. The O2 sound very lively on the 323.
 
I haven't yet tried to compare directly to the KGSS, but I've been using the KGSS with my O2 for years, and right now I believe that the sound quality is pretty equivalent to the 323 which is not something that I expected. Maybe I'll notice something that differentiates them in a direct comparison.
 
 
May 13, 2011 at 6:56 PM Post #15,548 of 24,807
Gilency: Nice Sigma 404s!  Missed you at the last meet.  Maybe you can bring those to the next meet and hook them up to my BH.  I love the normal bias Sigmas, probably the most underrated headphone there is.  I have a Sigma Pro I plan to sell, maybe I should stick them up on audiogon. :wink:
 
MrGreen:  There have been a number of broken Lambdas come up for sale here over the past year but I'm not sure if they've all been sold.  Might want to run a search and PM people just in case.
 
May 13, 2011 at 11:20 PM Post #15,549 of 24,807


Quote:
Gilency: Nice Sigma 404s!  Missed you at the last meet.  Maybe you can bring those to the next meet and hook them up to my BH.  I love the normal bias Sigmas, probably the most underrated headphone there is.  I have a Sigma Pro I plan to sell, maybe I should stick them up on audiogon. :wink:

Hey Milos! Good to hear from you. Very happy with them. Still dreaming of the SR-007 though.
biggrin.gif

 
 
 
May 15, 2011 at 3:47 AM Post #15,553 of 24,807
Hello,
 
I need some advice about SRM-T1. I want ot change from 220V to 240V.  How can I get to the internal switch? Is rebiasing hard to do. There was an tutorial on head-fi but the pictures are no longer there.
 
Thanks in advance
 
Georg
 
May 15, 2011 at 4:27 PM Post #15,555 of 24,807


Quote:
Hello,
 
I need some advice about SRM-T1. I want ot change from 220V to 240V.  How can I get to the internal switch? Is rebiasing hard to do. There was an tutorial on head-fi but the pictures are no longer there.
 
Thanks in advance
 
Georg

 
Balance + offset adjustment:

With 1 tube per channel, adjustment of the balance between the tube sections is needed. The measurements can be made on the outside of the amp in the Stax socket between the + and - lead of the channel (L or R). Adjust for 0V DC. This can be hard because the balance pot is a single turn type and even a tiny rotation makes a huge difference. Clever design indeed.
Also, DC offset has to be adjusted (offset pot). This is measured between the + lead and the ground clamp on the back of the amp. Again, adjust for 0V DC.
An occasional check (can be done from the outside) wont hurt, valves tend to drift, especialy new ones.
Repeat mesasurements a few times as they tend to influence eachother.
Keep in mind that the power supply of these amps is not regulated, so fluctiations in mains voltage will effect your adjustments.
Also keep in mind that the temperature of the amp has an influence on the balance and offset settings. Let the amp warm up 30-60 minutes. As soon as the top cover is removed, settings start to drift. I try to adjust for that by monitoring the amount of drift until the moment I actually turn the pot.
On an SRM-T1, it is possible to adjust the amp through the holes in the top cover so temperature drift, caused by removing the top cover, can be avoided. BUT: be carefull not to misplace the screwdriver and/or hit anything in the amp, use an isolated screwdriver (high voltage danger inside!). I use a strong light to shine through the holes in the top cover so the inside of the amp is lit and I can clearly see what I'm doing.
 
Good luck.
 
 
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