The Stax thread (New)

[HeadphoneAddict]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SACD-Man /img/forum/go_quote.gif The wallet gods are calling me and it's go time!!! This maybe the most stupid question ever, however there are never stupid questions, just stupid people.. What are some opinions on these 2 combos: SR-007 Omega II Mk2 + SRM-007T II or SRM-007T II + Stax SRM-007tA Does one combination seem more of a value? Meaning is it worth the extra several hundred $$ for the newer 2008 version? Help!!

Geez, can't you just try to enjoy the latest conquest of SR-5NB gold edition and Fitz amp, and not go into debt so that you'd have to frantically sell off everything else, just for small incremental gains that you wouldn't know you were missing if you were to quit head-fi now?

Nah, neither can I...

 

[smeggy]

Well I finally got around to modding my SR-Lambdas into a kinda hybrid sigma. It's a fairly simple mod involving a big wooden wedge but it does really make them sound nice.

I don't like the 303/404 too much, the SR-Lambda is very nice but nothing special, these sound much fuller and smoother. A warmer sound overall and I like them a lot.

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/1444/dsc7327jf0.jpg

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/7830/dsc7326yk6.jpg

 

[HeadphoneAddict]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Well I finally got around to modding my SR-Lambdas into a kinda hybrid sigma. It's a fairly simple mod involving a big wooden wedge but it does really make them sound nice. I don't like the 303/404 too much, the SR-Lambda is very nice but nothing special, these sound much fuller and smoother. A warmer sound overall and I like them a lot. http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/1444/dsc7327jf0.jpg http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/7830/dsc7326yk6.jpg

Sweet - I would love to hear them, but since I can't maybe you could describe the changes in the sound in a little more detail for us?

 

[ericj]

A little more digging with my E.9 transformer experimentation.

Spritzer's suggestion of hooking it up to a small ac transformer is a good one, now i just have to figure out if i have a small ac transformer. Then maybe i can figure out the step-up ratio.

It appears that Koss put a 6.8 ohm resistor in series with each 1-ohm primary to achieve ~8 ohms impedance. This sounds like something I'd do, and that makes me wonder if it's Really Stupid.

I will however attempt to use the same configuration when i do initial experiments with a spare SR-30 driver.

They also paralleled each of these resistors with a capacitor that is clearly marked 4.7uf but which after extracted reads 0.2uf on my LCR. Both of 'em. They're tiny, so for their age they must be either tantalum or electrolytic. Since they haven't caused any kind of catastrophic failure, I'm thinking electrolytic.

I don't understand why they did this. Perhaps this is the treble boost we've heard of.

At any rate, for E.9's that are like mine (which is unlike the koss schematic floating around), this could be another point of failure to consider when servicing them. if you're into that sort of thing.

there's also a pair of 47-ohm resistors in the same neighborhood which are connected to the input circuit but don't appear to be in parallel with the transformer primaries. The one on the left channel isn't connected to anything on one end, that i can see. Empty solder pad on the board. I may take the housing off my working E.9 and see if that one has a similar input section.

Of course, for my purposes, buying and gutting an SRD-X would make more sense, but they're rare and i don't have much money. and it wouldn't be as interesting.

 

[smeggy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sweet - I would love to hear them, but since I can't maybe you could describe the changes in the sound in a little more detail for us?

Overall, very positive changes. The bass has filled out due to the bigger cup volume. You know how if you crack the seal of a lambda the bass increases, well now it doesn't with the mod. They sound warmer, less spiky in the upper registers and very smooth. No etch whatsoever and the bass is pretty spectacular, very well defined and deep.

The sound is less diffuse with the forward/angled drivers, if focuses the sound nicely and gives a great soundstage and sense of space rivaling my K1000s. I can't figure out why Stax never did this deeper angle configuration, it's a great sound and not as extreme as the Sigma. Doesn't look as daft either.

 

[HeadphoneAddict]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Overall, very positive changes. The bass has filled out due to the bigger cup volume. You know how if you crack the seal of a lambda the bass increases, well now it doesn't with the mod. They sound warmer, less spiky in the upper registers and very smooth. No etch whatsoever and the bass is pretty spectacular, very well defined and deep. The sound is less diffuse with the forward/angled drivers, if focuses the sound nicely and gives a great soundstage and sense of space rivaling my K1000s. I can't figure out why Stax never did this deeper angle configuration, it's a great sound and not as extreme as the Sigma. Doesn't look as daft either.

So, how long before you become a member of the trade and sell these wedges?

 

[pdennis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Overall, very positive changes. The bass has filled out due to the bigger cup volume. You know how if you crack the seal of a lambda the bass increases, well now it doesn't with the mod. They sound warmer, less spiky in the upper registers and very smooth. No etch whatsoever and the bass is pretty spectacular, very well defined and deep. The sound is less diffuse with the forward/angled drivers, if focuses the sound nicely and gives a great soundstage and sense of space rivaling my K1000s. I can't figure out why Stax never did this deeper angle configuration, it's a great sound and not as extreme as the Sigma. Doesn't look as daft either.

Were the old Lambdas more swivel-able than the new ones? I can't twist the earpieces forward very far on my SR-202, in the same way the wedges would do; there's a piece of plastic blocking the hinge.

 

[smeggy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif So, how long before you become a member of the trade and sell these wedges?

Pah, I'm not that patient. Besides, people would be demanding quality workmanship rather than the rough hack-jobs I do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdennis Were the old Lambdas more swivel-able than the new ones? I can't twist the earpieces forward very far on my SR-202, in the same way the wedges would do; there's a piece of plastic blocking the hinge.

I think there's a little more swivel on the old style but even so I am at the very limit with a 3/4" wedge. Getting a bigger angle would require surgery and I wanted it fully reversible in case it sucked.

I think this is a pretty good compromise for sound and practicality.

 

[Elephas]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SACD-Man /img/forum/go_quote.gif What are some opinions on these 2 combos: SR-007 Omega II Mk2 + SRM-007T II or SRM-007T II + Stax SRM-007tA Does one combination seem more of a value? Meaning is it worth the extra several hundred $$ for the newer 2008 version?

The units in the second combo are both amps.

I assume you mean the SR-007 + SRM-007t II or SR-007 + SRM-007tA.

The A versions of the amps are Japan-market units. They are supposedly the same as the Mk II versions, except for voltage. The SR-007A is the same as the SR-007MkII, except for color.

The first combo looks to be the "Export Version" package, which is usually more expensive than the Japan-market models. I got the SR-007 MkII from my local Stax dealer without a Stax amp. It was more expensive than the street price of the SR-007A in Japan, but I have local warranty and dealer service, and didn't have to deal with intl. shipping issues... and an all-black, better-looking headphone than the SR-007A!

There might be some very good SR-007 package deals available, including used units. It seems that several people prefer the SR-007, the original model, over the SR-007A or SR-007MkII, the latest model launched late last year.

If the price difference is large, I would go for whichever is cheaper. I think both the SR-007 and SR-007MkII sound very good and the difference between them is a lot less than their difference with another headphone, such as the 4070 or HE60.

 

[SACD-Man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif Geez, can't you just try to enjoy the latest conquest of SR-5NB gold edition and Fitz amp, and not go into debt so that you'd have to frantically sell off everything else, just for small incremental gains that you wouldn't know you were missing if you were to quit head-fi now? Nah, neither can I...

Larry-its all your fault!!!
My recent purchase from you will be used at my office. The Omega will then become my reference.

To be honest, my wallet will take a slight dent but I have an opportunity that I might not be able to pass up. This includes me just picking "whatever I want"!!

It's go time....

 

[SACD-Man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elephas /img/forum/go_quote.gif The units in the second combo are both amps. I assume you mean the SR-007 + SRM-007t II or SR-007 + SRM-007tA. The A versions of the amps are Japan-market units. They are supposedly the same as the Mk II versions, except for voltage. The SR-007A is the same as the SR-007MkII, except for color. The first combo looks to be the "Export Version" package, which is usually more expensive than the Japan-market models. I got the SR-007 MkII from my local Stax dealer without a Stax amp. It was more expensive than the street price of the SR-007A in Japan, but I have local warranty and dealer service, and didn't have to deal with intl. shipping issues... and an all-black, better-looking headphone than the SR-007A! There might be some very good SR-007 package deals available, including used units. It seems that several people prefer the SR-007, the original model, over the SR-007A or SR-007MkII, the latest model launched late last year. If the price difference is large, I would go for whichever is cheaper. I think both the SR-007 and SR-007MkII sound very good and the difference between them is a lot less than their difference with another headphone, such as the 4070 or HE60.

Thanks for all the info. For the most part you answered all of my questions.

I have an opportunity that I can't pass up!!!

Thanks~

 

[slwiser]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif Pah, I'm not that patient. Besides, people would be demanding quality workmanship rather than the rough hack-jobs I do. I think there's a little more swivel on the old style but even so I am at the very limit with a 3/4" wedge. Getting a bigger angle would require surgery and I wanted it fully reversible in case it sucked. I think this is a pretty good compromise for sound and practicality.

It looks like you may have added some weight. How do they feel on your head now? The pictures tell me more than the description of what you did. Thanks. The workmanship looks OK to me. How about a dark mahogany?

 

[spritzer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif A little more digging with my E.9 transformer experimentation. Spritzer's suggestion of hooking it up to a small ac transformer is a good one, now i just have to figure out if i have a small ac transformer. Then maybe i can figure out the step-up ratio. It appears that Koss put a 6.8 ohm resistor in series with each 1-ohm primary to achieve ~8 ohms impedance. This sounds like something I'd do, and that makes me wonder if it's Really Stupid. I will however attempt to use the same configuration when i do initial experiments with a spare SR-30 driver. They also paralleled each of these resistors with a capacitor that is clearly marked 4.7uf but which after extracted reads 0.2uf on my LCR. Both of 'em. They're tiny, so for their age they must be either tantalum or electrolytic. Since they haven't caused any kind of catastrophic failure, I'm thinking electrolytic. I don't understand why they did this. Perhaps this is the treble boost we've heard of. At any rate, for E.9's that are like mine (which is unlike the koss schematic floating around), this could be another point of failure to consider when servicing them. if you're into that sort of thing. there's also a pair of 47-ohm resistors in the same neighborhood which are connected to the input circuit but don't appear to be in parallel with the transformer primaries. The one on the left channel isn't connected to anything on one end, that i can see. Empty solder pad on the board. I may take the housing off my working E.9 and see if that one has a similar input section. Of course, for my purposes, buying and gutting an SRD-X would make more sense, but they're rare and i don't have much money. and it wouldn't be as interesting.

It's such a headache to try and understand all the weird things that Koss did. When I first saw the E.10 I though it was an amp but no, just a very complicated adapter.

To figure out the ratio of the transformer from the impedance you divide the the secondary by the primary and take a square root of the result so that might apply to DC resistance as well? I'm too tired now to look it up...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elephas /img/forum/go_quote.gif The A versions of the amps are Japan-market units. They are supposedly the same as the Mk II versions, except for voltage. The SR-007A is the same as the SR-007MkII, except for color.

The A versions are identical to the export models except that the two 120v leads on the transformer have been cut so converting the amps requires a minor surgery on the transformer.

 

[SACD-Man]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif It's such a headache to try and understand all the weird things that Koss did. When I first saw the E.10 I though it was an amp but no, just a very complicated adapter. To figure out the ratio of the transformer from the impedance you divide the the secondary by the primary and take a square root of the result so that might apply to DC resistance as well? I'm too tired now to look it up... The A versions are identical to the export models except that the two 120v leads on the transformer have been cut so converting the amps requires a minor surgery on the transformer.

Thanks for clearing that up for me....

 

[wualta]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy Overall, very positive changes. Doesn't look as daft either.

You old daft-dodger you.

They look great, the mod is simple, it's a good compromise between the Lambda and Sigma-- what's not to like?