The Stax thread (New)
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Jun 22, 2007 at 7:54 AM Post #2,341 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by MaloS /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Running in off-topic. How many have heard the Rudistor Egmont? I have read the review here of it, but that is the only source of info I see. I read the information on the Rudistor website about it - and it looks like it can drive anything from Lambdas to Omegas nicely, with 900 Vpp (as opposed to Stax amplifiers that top out at 450 Vpp). I have asked Rudi a few questions regrading some terminology he uses and equalization of the amp, but do we have anyone else but Nik and Reviewer with impressions?

(Utterly tempted to bite it, but gonna need to generate another 500 bucks somehow so need to decently justify it).



According to this post by Birgir the Egmont is much less powerful. It's true that you can't get 900V peaks from a pair of 6SN7s anyway.

Stax measures all their amps using RMS, so times by about 1.4 or whatever it is for the peak to peak value.
 
Jun 22, 2007 at 11:07 AM Post #2,342 of 24,807
Interesting. Although, 900 Vpp does not mean it needs to be 900 V peaks, it can swing -450 to 450. Is that still outside of limitations of 6sn7?
Also, then that sounds rather weird for the relative quality of the amplifier, as other models are considered great...
 
Jun 22, 2007 at 12:52 PM Post #2,343 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by MaloS /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Interesting. Although, 900 Vpp does not mean it needs to be 900 V peaks, it can swing -450 to 450. Is that still outside of limitations of 6sn7?


That's what 900Vpp is. Well unless you happen to dislike listening to sinewaves.

If you ran a 6SN7 on 450V it wouldn't live for very long.
 
Jun 22, 2007 at 1:46 PM Post #2,344 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by MaloS /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Interesting. Although, 900 Vpp does not mean it needs to be 900 V peaks, it can swing -450 to 450. Is that still outside of limitations of 6sn7?


What follows is general information and my own opinion. I don't know anything about the prototype of a commercial amp you're speculating about above. I suspect your information or interpretation is mistaken, or perhaps the advertising copy was written by someone with more enthusiasm than knowledge. No criticism of an existing or future design by anyone is made or implied. I'm just giving information to illuminate the discussion, okay?

There are several classes of 6SN7, their electrical distinctions being far, far more important to their capabilities and thus their sound in an amp than any mickey mouse differences tube rolling within any class can achieve. The "standard" 6SN7GT has a maximum plate voltage rating of 300V. The 6SN7GTB (or older, now less common GTA) has a max plate voltage rating of 450V. Thus a GTB can be operated in theory up to 900Vptp with a split rail power supply. (1)

However, a maximum rating is not a suggested operating rating. Far from it. The makers of the tube tell you that if you approach any of the maximum ratings, you should derate the other operating parameters of the tube. You may not use two or more maximum parameters at once.

There are further limits, called maximum dissipation, that is heat management. The plain jane 6SN7GT is good for 3W5 on either plate, or 5W with both plates operating (i.e. 2W5 per plate). The GTB is good for 5W on only one plate or 3W75 per plate with both plates operating.

That in turn limits the current you can apply to the tube. A certain minimum of current is required to drive the earphones, and a different minimum of current is required on tubes driving output tubes to overcome Miller (parasitic) capacitance and to ensure proper bandwidth in both the bass and the high frequency.

Thus, if you hog out the voltage on a 6SN7GTB to 450V with both halves operating, current on each plate can be only 3W75/450V = 8.33mA. That's the theory. It is good practice not to run tubes over 80% of Pdmax, so now we're down to 6.6mA. That's not enough, so one reduces the plate voltage to get the current up.

There are other problems, relating to noise (distortion), when too high a voltage causes the current to be reduced so as not to overheat the tube. The amount of current on the plate determines how high above the illinear portion of the tube's transfer curve the quiescent (zero signal) operating point lies. This point is the electrical centre of a sloping line. At one end of the line, assuming a Class A1 amp (for an electrostatic headphone anything else would simply be too noisy), grid current will be drawn and thus drive the amp into Class A2 (noisy!), at the other end the line will dip into distortion because the tube can no longer amplify the signal faithfully (linearly): big noise. Beyond that lies current cutoff and 100 per cent distortion. We thus want to put the design centre (zero signal) of the transfer slope as high as possible so that at its low end (max volume, lowest current) it still sits above the nasty bits of the tube's transfer. For that 10mA is better than 8 and 6mA is totally unacceptable.

There's an informative piccie on my netsite:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/112KISScurves.jpg
This is a graphic illustration of the transfer function for a WE300B in my T39 Ultra-Fi design but the principle described above is the same. The illustration shows that everything is interrelated: voltage, current, power, distortion, etc.

More pics of transfer curves here:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/KISS%20190.htm

Description of the pics is found here:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/T...mp%20INDEX.htm

My general tube amp site:
http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/JUTE%20ON%20AMPS.htm
This is where I shall publish the Stax earspeaker drivers I designed last year when I get around to writing the accompanying text.

Andre Jute
Visit Andre's books and hobbies at http://members.lycos.co.uk/fiultra/
"wonderfully well written and reasoned information
for the tube audio constructor"
John Broskie TubeCAD & GlassWare
"an unbelievably comprehensive web site
containing vital gems of wisdom"
Stuart Perry Hi-Fi News & Record Review

(1) These maxima apply to NOS American and British manufactures and direct equivalents. Chinese and Russians so-called equivalents to 6SN7 do not necessarily have the same ratings or quality of manufacture; what they are capable of may depend on who manufactured them, the batch, or, most commonly, who tested and selected them for rebranding.
 
Jun 22, 2007 at 1:58 PM Post #2,345 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by Carl /img/forum/go_quote.gif
According to this post by Birgir the Egmont is much less powerful. It's true that you can't get 900V peaks from a pair of 6SN7s anyway.

Stax measures all their amps using RMS, so times by about 1.4 or whatever it is for the peak to peak value.



I spent half a day looking for this post, and now it crops up again. Well, at least something can go right somewhere.

Is the Woo GES capable of driving the O2? Yes, I know that's a loaded statement, since "capable" and "driving" are so open to interpretation, but still... does anyone have any experience with this combination?

I'm just wondering if there is a tube alternative to the KGSS that can drive the O2 better than the 007t, while being in the same ballpart pricewise. I'm leaving the McAlister unit out of the consideration for the time being...
 
Jun 22, 2007 at 2:46 PM Post #2,346 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by catscratch /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I spent half a day looking for this post, and now it crops up again. Well, at least something can go right somewhere.

Is the Woo GES capable of driving the O2? Yes, I know that's a loaded statement, since "capable" and "driving" are so open to interpretation, but still... does anyone have any experience with this combination?

I'm just wondering if there is a tube alternative to the KGSS that can drive the O2 better than the 007t, while being in the same ballpart pricewise. I'm leaving the McAlister unit out of the consideration for the time being...



Very loaded, yes. Anyway the GES should do at least as good a job as the 007t as the latter is very much humstrung by Stax wanting to make a good margin off it.
 
Jun 22, 2007 at 3:20 PM Post #2,347 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by MaloS /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Running in off-topic. How many have heard the Rudistor Egmont? I have read the review here of it, but that is the only source of info I see. I read the information on the Rudistor website about it - and it looks like it can drive anything from Lambdas to Omegas nicely, with 900 Vpp (as opposed to Stax amplifiers that top out at 450 Vpp). I have asked Rudi a few questions regrading some terminology he uses and equalization of the amp, but do we have anyone else but Nik and Reviewer with impressions?

(Utterly tempted to bite it, but gonna need to generate another 500 bucks somehow so need to decently justify it).



Output voltage aside it's a bad design that isn't very stable. The parts quality is a joke and some of the build techniques are suspect. There have been some problems with them so I would stay away.

I have the schematic and I'll probably build it one day but it's quite a few projects away. It's a relatively simple amp compared to some of the brutes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by catscratch /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I spent half a day looking for this post, and now it crops up again. Well, at least something can go right somewhere.

Is the Woo GES capable of driving the O2? Yes, I know that's a loaded statement, since "capable" and "driving" are so open to interpretation, but still... does anyone have any experience with this combination?

I'm just wondering if there is a tube alternative to the KGSS that can drive the O2 better than the 007t, while being in the same ballpart pricewise. I'm leaving the McAlister unit out of the consideration for the time being...



It should be better then the 007t but a lot is riding on the parts quality, especially the coupling caps. It won't drive the O2's to their limit but for that you need some serious voltage and the parts quality to match. The GES could be a nice alternative to the sterile KGSS but I'd have to hear it too be sure.

I doubt we'll ever see a tube amp in the KGSS price range with comparable output voltage unless someone starts making them in China in large numbers. The parts are just too expensive and the build too complicated.
 
Jun 22, 2007 at 8:40 PM Post #2,349 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by Carl /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Another alternative might be the Masters BA-215TM. EL34s have enough grunt for Omega 2s.


I forgot about that one. You could as well just buy something like the old Dynaco's and put a Stax plug before the output trafo.

I just got a package containing two Lambda Nova Signatures and a SR-X Mk2. Time for some cleaning and a good listening session...
biggrin.gif
 
Jun 22, 2007 at 11:15 PM Post #2,350 of 24,807
for a couple of months. I hope everyone has been fine, Glad to be back. Scottsmrnyc
580smile.gif
3000smile.gif
 
Jun 23, 2007 at 5:55 PM Post #2,351 of 24,807
I bought these from Japan and they were in pretty bad shape but I just had to have them.
biggrin.gif
After about two hours of very though cleaning and even some polishing they are looking pretty good considering their age. There is a slight channel imbalance but I haven't opened up the driver yet to see if I can fix it.

The Mk2's were introduced in 1972 and replaced by the Mk3 in 1976. The mylar is 3.8um thick and the coating is metal based. The SR-X Mk2 is a very different design compared to the Mk3, the headband is much weaker(and has broken some time long ago on my example), the sound chamber is smaller, the driver is very similar to the SR-3 and has the same perforated bronze stator, the swivel mount screws are copper based not steel and then chrome plated causing them to oxidize, the metal part of the cup is much thinner then on the Mk3 and much more delicate and there is a cloth filter attached to it to. The filter is glued in place so I can't test why it's there but it must have been used to fix some colorations.

The sound isn't much like the Mk3's either and I can understand why they were only in production for four years. There is literally no headstage at all and everything sounds very compressed. The top end is a bit edgy and sibilant but very extended, the midrange recessed and a bit distant and they make the Mk3's look like bass monsters. There is some bass but it doesn't extend much. The bass will increase when I put some new pads on them but for now I enjoy nothing below 100Hz.
tongue.gif
It's obvious that Stax wanted to make something that didn't sound like the SR-3 and SR-3N and had more of a monitor sound to them and they pulled it off.

Time for some pics (clickable):




Here is the cloth over the metal guard on the driver.
 
Jun 24, 2007 at 6:58 PM Post #2,354 of 24,807
I've been having some really, really bad balance problems with my SR-5 lately, so I've been trying to fix them for the last two nights and... I think I have a screwed up membrane, since swapping the membrane between the drivers also shifted the imbalance. However, removing 3 of the 4 screws on the driver capsule on both sides somehow fixes the balance - does anyone know why that works?

On an unrelated note, I had my SR-5 (the same one) recabled a couple days back with the new stax extension cable, and ... it sounds better =P (The imbalance problem was present before and after the recable.)
 
Jun 24, 2007 at 7:28 PM Post #2,355 of 24,807
Quote:

Originally Posted by facelvega /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Wow, interesting to finally get to see the difference between the Mk2 and Mk3. Much greater than I'd expected. Now I wish we could get them to do a Mk4...


I love to compare Stax models and see how they fixed problems and design issues one at a time. This particular sample could have a DIY replacement diaphragm because it's tensioned way too much, not something Stax has ever done. I don't want to open them up again unless I have time to replace the cable as well so I can't be sure. The SR-X can't stand to be opened up that often.

The SR-007 could be considered the newest SR-X because it uses some of the same design elements but taken too the n'th degree. The Sr-Lambda was designed to build on the SR-X strengths and fix the extension issues. It did accomplish that but things started to go very wrong with the Pro and later models.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tachikoma /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I've been having some really, really bad balance problems with my SR-5 lately, so I've been trying to fix them for the last two nights and... I think I have a screwed up membrane, since swapping the membrane between the drivers also shifted the imbalance. However, removing 3 of the 4 screws on the driver capsule on both sides somehow fixes the balance - does anyone know why that works?

On an unrelated note, I had my SR-5 (the same one) recabled a couple days back with the new stax extension cable, and ... it sounds better =P (The imbalance problem was present before and after the recable.)



First off be sure to put the right side of the diaphragm towards the bias connector. You should see some faint marks from when the coating was applied and that side of the diaphragm has to face the back of the driver. The stators are most likely at fault or the driver has suffered some shock. Just use 3 screws to lessen the tension inside it and be happy that it works.

The newer cables are much better then the first ribbon cable and anything is better then the old cloth covered crap. The sibilance it induces is unbearable.
 
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