[condor]

So I got my SRM-1/MK-2 P.P. which is currently set to 220V by the previous headfier.

I know it's a class A amp so it's expected to get warm, but I've also read
that running the 220V with ~240V ("modern Europe") will further increase the heat. About what difference are we speaking there? I think my amp runs
more than "hand warm" and if this +20V would make a big difference then I'd perhaps do this if it increases it's lifetime.

Now I've found


http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f113/s...ml#post3902577

So my change would be:

- disconnect Green + Gray
- pick Gray and solder it to Purple

is this right?

Are those plugs somehow internally connected (eg does it make a difference
on which plug I connect them?)?

If there's no internal connection I could simply detach green completely from now and resolder green down to purple? (Or purple up to gray...)

 

[indikator]

oh my,
my newbie soldering looks really crappy at close up......

no there is no internal connection at those post, they are meant to be connected on outside using a plug but as you know your amp do not have that convenient plug

btw it is normal for the amp to run hot, in fact this one will cool down when idle as oppose to my previous 'A' version one which run hot all the time

 

[John Buchanan]

Wouldn't that suggest that the later versions of the SRM1 Mk 2 no longer run in Class A?

 

[condor]

Quote:

Originally Posted by indikator /img/forum/go_quote.gif oh my, my newbie soldering looks really crappy at close up...... no there is no internal connection at those post, they are meant to be connected on outside using a plug but as you know your amp do not have that convenient plug btw it is normal for the amp to run hot, in fact this one will cool down when idle as oppose to my previous 'A' version one which run hot all the time

Ah there you are

Well, my soldering skills will be much more amateur like (I just soldered one or two times) that's why I'm asking in such a detailed way..

But I think disconnect green, disconnect purple, put purple to grey should be something I should be able to do, too

I know this propably can't be compared, but my integrated amp Technics SU-V5 is new class A and it only runs like handwarm (new class A is expected to be warmer than class A, from what I've read).

If let's say this 220V -> 240V change would decrease the temperature by ~5°C+ perhaps it's worth it...

 

[spritzer]

I wouldn't come near the AC line voltage if you don't know what you are doing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by n3rdling /img/forum/go_quote.gif Perhaps a PoorMan's Adaptor can help that?

I was going to try some cheap transformers but it's off now since I just bought a SR-404LE.

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Buchanan /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wouldn't that suggest that the later versions of the SRM1 Mk 2 no longer run in Class A?

They could have decreased the bias a bit but it is still within Class A.

 

[condor]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif I wouldn't come near the AC line voltage if you don't know what you are doing.

That's right, of course.

I just don't want to have this united overheated, a fever thermometer (...) get's maxed on the air slits (meaning over 43°C) so I guess even for Class A it's way too much, isn't it?

 

[chi2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif I was going to try some cheap transformers but it's off now since I just bought a SR-404LE.

Congrats!

(So it was you who snatched the LE on YahooJP? I'm really interested in what the silver wire will do to the upper-midrange/lower-highs peak of the 404

).

 

[krmathis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by condor /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wooohooo - I'm finally in Stax land!

Welcome!

Lets hope upgraditis fair well with you...

 

[spritzer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by condor /img/forum/go_quote.gif That's right, of course. I just don't want to have this united overheated, a fever thermometer (...) get's maxed on the air slits (meaning over 43°C) so I guess even for Class A it's way too much, isn't it?

43°C is nothing for a Class A amp so no worries.

Quote:

Originally Posted by chi2 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Congrats! (So it was you who snatched the LE on YahooJP? I'm really interested in what the silver wire will do to the upper-midrange/lower-highs peak of the 404 ).

It was Craig but on my behalf. From what info I've gotten so far it is more of the same (similar to the SR-007A) so I'll probably rip them apart and do my SR-404 mods.

 

[condor]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif 43°C is nothing for a Class A amp so no worries.

Ok, thank you godfather.

 

[condor]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif I wouldn't come near the AC line voltage if you don't know what you are doing.

I've done it!

And it's still working

Thank you for your nice pics...

 

[spritzer]

Good to see that you are still alive.

 

[condor]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif Good to see that you are still alive.

Yeah, I'm glad too, that means more time to enjoy the rig.

Girlfriend: Let's hope it doesn't break in the next days.. :/

 

[jellojoe]

I'm having some trouble with my normal bias lambdas.

I'm using them with a rev A SRM-1/MK II, and the right driver is making these drum tapping sounds without any input (cables disconnected or music paused). If there is music playing, I can hear it from the right driver, but there is no sound from the left driver and the tapping noise doesn't stop. The pro bias of the amp works fine, but I don't have any other normal bias phones so I can't check. Has any of you Stax gurus experienced this phenomenon? TIA.

 

[ak40ozKevin]

This is coming out of nowhere but I've come to really only like the SR-001 in theory (portable STAX? ****in awesome!). After owning them for almost 2 years I simply can't recommend them for anything but home use and maybe to accompany a laptop setup. Which means people should go for the SR-003 if they want a compact stat setup. Really the only reason for this is the ridiculously fragile cable on the SR-001.

I had a problem with it once and sent the whole unit off for warranty repair which took months. When I finally got it back the same cable issue occurred in about 4-5 months of moderate to light use. I was really careful after the first issue occurred and hardly ever used the thing since I got a good deal on a 2050A system. The 2nd time I had cable issues I opted to repair it myself and soldered the cable directly to the circuit board and I haven't had any problems since then. That said there is something definitely wrong with their cable since I'm not alone in having these issues.

It's a shame because barring some minor but much needed changes to the design I would suggest these as an option that outperforms most other portable headphones.