[Faust2D]

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Buchanan /img/forum/go_quote.gif The O2 would most likely be underpowered in that system, whereas the LNS would do well and sound very nice. The SRM1 Mk2 would be just borderline power wise. The SRM-717 is OK as far as I can tell.

I have SRM-1Mk2 Pro and I like O2 with T1S much more, go figure.

 

[audiod]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Victor Chew /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have both the 717 and the T1s to drive my LNS. The LNS sounds thicker with the T1s, but a little less controlled generally. With the 717, the music is more laid back and separation is better. Further, with the power of the 717 the LNS appers to benefit with more control. As I prefer my music to be more laid back, I will, like John prefer to keep the 717. The difference is not huge though. With the T1s driving the LNS, many will be happy for a long time.

LONG LIVE THE 717!

 

[jigster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif That one looks a bit familiar... You need to bias the tubes each time you change them and it's a good idea to check the bias every few months though I've never found the amp to drift much. PM me your email address and I'll send you the instructions. You will have to move the amp though since the top needs to be open while biasing.

Thanks, sent you a pm.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Victor Chew /img/forum/go_quote.gif Spritzer "familiar"? Sat in your home for some time I guess!!! The BHSE is running at more than 1500v. Biasing has to be done with the amp on. Pls be careful and get a long sleeved screw driver Jigster. The amp was just looked into by Justin I believe; so he might have biased it already. In any case, it is still good to learn how to bias it. If in doubt, get others to do it for you. As a last note, biasing requires a lot of patience and concentration as the turns can be very minute.

Yup, will do. Wanna learn how to do it in case I decide to muck around with different tubes, they came with 4 different sets; Mullard XF4s, Golden Dragons, Valve Art and one other set that I can't remember now.

 

[jigster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by krmathis /img/forum/go_quote.gif Can't help you with the question about the KGBH. But have to chime in telling that I really like your setup. Clean, minimalist, .. just the way I like.

Thanks.
Was using a CEC TL1 (transport), Electrocompaniet ECD-1 (Dac), Stax T1W (Pre-amp) and a Passlabs Aleph 30(power amp) which I felt made my system look cluttered especially with all that cabling behind. So i got rid of all except the ECD-1 and now it looks much better. But I find the Orpheus a bit harsher than the TL-1, which was more analogue-like. Though with the Orpheus, the sound is more cleaner and detailed.

 

[spritzer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Victor Chew /img/forum/go_quote.gif Spritzer "familiar"? Sat in your home for some time I guess!!! The BHSE is running at more than 1500v. Biasing has to be done with the amp on. Pls be careful and get a long sleeved screw driver Jigster. The amp was just looked into by Justin I believe; so he might have biased it already. In any case, it is still good to learn how to bias it. If in doubt, get others to do it for you. As a last note, biasing requires a lot of patience and concentration as the turns can be very minute.

Yup, that's my old amp. A stock Blue Hawaii runs at +/-400v (which translates into about 1500v of output) so a plastic trimpot adjuster is a good idea. They can be bought off ebay for very little.

The BH is very easy to bias compared to something like the Stax amps and many speaker amps. Justin uses multi-turn pots so you have more range to dial in the exact values. The BHSE will use the same system but the pots are accessible through the top of the chassis (look for small holes next to the tubes) to make life easier.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jigster /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yup, will do. Wanna learn how to do it in case I decide to muck around with different tubes, they came with 4 different sets; Mullard XF4s, Golden Dragons, Valve Art and one other set that I can't remember now.

The last set is RFT (East German 1980's) but I can't remember the label on them, perhaps AEG or some other German corporation. The Mullard XF2's are the holy grail and will show you why I rambled on quite a bit about this amp. Expensive though but last a very long time.

PM and email on your way shortly.

 

[jigster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yup, that's my old amp. A stock Blue Hawaii runs at +/-400v (which translates into about 1500v of output) so a plastic trimpot adjuster is a good idea. They can be bought off ebay for very little.

Are these plastic screwdrivers with a cross head (+ head)?

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif The Mullard XF2's are the holy grail and will show you why I rambled on quite a bit about this amp. Expensive though but last a very long time. PM and email on your way shortly.

Tried to bid a few times for the XF2s on ebay but they have almost always gone beyond my budget.

 

[DannyB]

I have both amps and seem to prefer the KGSS over the 007t1, although I'm a tubehead at heart. Am I missing something on the Stax amp, with which I have already done some tube rolling...I currently have RCAs in it. ? It seems a bit mushy on the bottom end and somewhat veiled in the upper end. Am I starting to convert to a solid state person in my old age? Oh my, that's not a good thing is it?

 

[The Monkey]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannyB /img/forum/go_quote.gif It seems a bit mushy on the bottom end and somewhat veiled in the upper end.

Yup, that sounds like the 007t to me.

 

[spritzer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jigster /img/forum/go_quote.gif Are these plastic screwdrivers with a cross head (+ head)?

You need a flat head for the trimpots and Torx T6 to open up the amp.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jigster /img/forum/go_quote.gif Tried to bid a few times for the XF2s on ebay but they have almost always gone beyond my budget.

Nobody said they were cheap.

It's also a good idea to own a tube tester when dealing with old tubes off ebay since not all sellers are honest and tubes can be damaged in shipping. A bad tube can blow up the amp.

 

[DannyB]

Is the 717 significantly different than the 007t1 and would it be worthwhile, as far as enough sonic difference, to consider a 717 if I have a KGSS?

 

[Keithpgdrb]

hey guys,

I really did not want to clip off the fork connections at the end of the wires to hook up the amp. they are really on there solid. take a look at what I've done. is this stupid? am I loosing signal by doing it this way? should I suck it up and go bare wire?

it works this way, but if I'm loosing signal strength, I'll clip them. throw me some advice.

 

[smuh]

Pulled the trigger on a Stax Classic System II last week and I am eargerly awaiting them

Next on the list is a (new) USB Dac...

Just needed to share this

Not sure if the SR-303 and SRM-313 qualify as high end.

 

[HeadphoneAddict]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keithpgdrb /img/forum/go_quote.gif hey guys, I really did not want to clip off the fork connections at the end of the wires to hook up the amp. they are really on there solid. take a look at what I've done. is this stupid? am I loosing signal by doing it this way? should I suck it up and go bare wire? it works this way, but if I'm loosing signal strength, I'll clip them. throw me some advice.

That is probably fine for the Stax, but what kind of speakers are you connecting to the energizer? I guess even that is moot point since we're not talking about huge monobock amps and ginormous speakers sucking 100v of power output.

I'd still clip them off an install banana plugs, assuming your speaker terminals handle banana plugs, but that's just me. Or, clip them and use bare wire since all you are doing is having a piece of metal between the cable and the terminals and I don't see how that is gonna make things better than a direct connection.

 

[Keithpgdrb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict /img/forum/go_quote.gif That is probably fine for the Stax, but what kind of speakers are you connecting to the energizer? I guess even that is moot point since we're not talking about huge monobock amps and ginormous speakers sucking 100v of power output. I'd still clip them off an install banana plugs, assuming your speaker terminals handle banana plugs, but that's just me. Or, clip them and use bare wire since all you are doing is having a piece of metal between the cable and the terminals and I don't see how that is gonna make things better than a direct connection.

thanks HA. I am running the stax out of the "A" speakers, and the actual speakers out of the "B" terminals, so the speakers are unaffected by my "setup".. But I think your right. the more I think of this, the more it seems I'm compromising the signal for what is essentially an esthetic reason. I'm going downstairs to strip wires right now.

 

[audiod]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannyB /img/forum/go_quote.gif Is the 717 significantly different than the 007t1 and would it be worthwhile, as far as enough sonic difference, to consider a 717 if I have a KGSS?

Search this thread. I reviewed the 717, 727II, 007t and KGSS. On the O2mk1 the 717 came in first followed by the 007t, KGSS and 727II. I love the 007t with the Lambda series and ESP-950. I sold the KGSS and 727II.