The Stax thread (New)

[DaveBSC]

 
Quote:

The 2 channel representation is there, but not to the same degree as with multi channel. I think this is due to the mastering of music compared with how movies are produced more than anything else. Lorr and his team were involved with DTS for a number of years, this may have something to do with the way it reproduces movies. In my opinion, DTS-MA sounds much better than Dolby TrueHD, for what ever reason.

 
IIRC the bitrate for DTS-MA is higher than Dolby. It was the same with the original DTS and Dolby Digital, that's why DTS always sounded much better. It's like comparing 128kbps MP3 to 320kbps.
 

 

[DaveBSC]

 
Quote:

Maybe they should add a second digital input to apease those who are under the impression that HDMI is not perfectly capable of transporting stereo PCM.

 
It's not that HDMI isn't capable (although HDMI is not a low jitter interface when dealing with PCM) it's that it's impractical. On the back of a high-end music server or transport you will find AES/EBU and RCA or BNC jacks for S/Pdif and maybe optical. You won't find any HDMI outputs. 

 

[schorsch]

Hello out there)
 
Some nice pics of a rare stax product:
Preamp CA-Z
 
Hope you enjoy)
 

 

 

 

 

 

[RexAeterna]

Hello out there)

Some nice pics of a rare stax product:
Preamp CA-Z

Hope you enjoy)

o...m...g...i think i just came a little....wait a second....ectoplasm everywhere!

 

[Elysian]

My GES isn't powering up anymore, after trying two different power cords and power sockets.
 
I removed the fuse box from the AC inlet but accidentally broke the fuse while removing it from the plastic clip.
 
Could anyone please tell me what fuse I should replace it with?  I'm hoping to drop by Radio Shack tomorrow and get this fixed soon.  No idea what could have caused the blown fuse.  My DAC and preamp are on the same transformer, and those two devices powered up fine.
 
If anyone has any ideas what could be the culprit, I'd be very appreciative to hear any thoughts.
 
I'm also posting this question to the Woo thread, but figured people in the Stax thread would be more familiar with the GES.

 

[El_Doug]

it would be way easier to shoot an email to Jack  

 

[Elysian]

Did so already   He always seems really busy so I was thinking someone would respond quicker here.
 
Also, if anyone has had similar problems with their GES, would be nice to get some insight.  I ran a bunch of forum searches but came up with nothing

 

[purrin]

Any markings on the fuse? Usually you will see slo-blo / fast-blo designations, amps, and voltage on the metal part. The GES is not going to suck current like some of the beastly stat amps. I take that back since I have no idea on its power supply design... but you can head over to Rat-Shack and try a 1 or 2 amp 125V slo-blo fuse at least temporarily. Start small and work up. I would be worried if it's blowing 2 amp slo-blo fuses.
 
Would be nice if Woo could at least provide operating wattage in their technical specs.
 
EDIT: I see 140 watt power transformer quoted in the standard features. I would hope it's over-specced, but try a 1.0A or 1.5A 125V slo-blo fuse for "testing" until Woo gets back to you or until you figure out if there are any markings on the fuse.

 

[Elysian]

Didn't see any markings on the fuse before I fumbled it and it exploded into a hundred beautiful shards between my fingers.
 
The fuse box clip says 'USE ONLY WITH A 250V FUSE'.  Unfortunately, there isn't a manual for the GES on Woo's website.
 
I parsed some non-stat Woo fuse amp threads on Head-Fi and it seems people are using 250V 2A and 3A slo-blo fuses on Woo dynamic amps, but didn't know if this would still carry over to the stat variety.  The WES manual doesn't seem to have anything about fuse specs either.
 
Edit: Thanks for the suggestions!  Very helpful   Would you suggest starting with a 1.5A 125V or 3A 250V slo-blo, based on what's written on the fuse box clip?

 

[purrin]

The fuse box is probably over-specced and designed to take up to 250V. It's going to be the current that blows the fuse if something is shorting. Start at 1.0A 250V to be conservative and work up. If there's a short, it's gonna blow for sure.
 
Can you salvage the metal portions of the old fuse?
 
EDIT: http://wooaudio.com/docs/wooaudio_amplifier_comparisons.pdf
See power consumption of GES: 51 watts.

 

[Elysian]

The metal end says: F3AL250V
 
I'm assuming that means 3A at 250V?  I'm not sure what the F and L mean.
 
I hope the amp isn't shorted.  I'm assuming the power tubes (6S4) would be some of the first culprits?  I guess I'll buy a few fuses in case it shorts immediately and then replace all my 6S4s with a set of tested RCA 6S4s I have.
 
I'll get a 1.5A 250V, a 2A, and a 3A.

 

[purrin]

F = fastblo. T = slowblo. L = glass.
 
Would be interesting to throw in a wattage meter / logger for GES to determine best fuse for it.
 
For fun: DIY T2 turn-on current. Do the math to get watts. Muhahahaha!

 

[Elysian]

Awesome, thanks much.  I read up on Gearslutz and it seems like sloblo fuses are preferable for audio equipment, given the power draw as the amp powers up.

 

[Tilpo]

F = fastblo. T = slowblo. L = glass.

Would be interesting to throw in a wattage meter / logger for GES to determine best fuse for it.

For fun: DIY T2 turn-on current. Do the math to get watts. Muhahahaha!

Holy hay, 19 amps? That would blow most fuses for sure.

 

[Elysian]

That seems like a good image for justifying a sloblo fuse
 
How are you enjoying the T2?  It's too bad there wasn't one at the Bay Area meet.