The Stax thread (New)

[Hawaiiancerveza]

I was looking at the 323s and on a site it said that I'd need a step-down transformer.  
 

 

[sridhar3]

Quote:

If I was looking for a DAC with built-in async USB around the price range of a new W4S2, I would probably try to find a used Ayre QB-9 to test.  It uses Gordon Rankin's (Wavelength audio) Wavestream controller, which is used on the WaveLink converter and is generally well-regarded, and you can find a used QB-9 in the low $2k last I checked prices.
 
I haven't heard the Ayre, but it might be worth seeking out for a test.

It's limited to 96/24, but sounds awesome.

 

[verwandlung]

Is there any downside in using a transformer with the SRM-717 to convert 100V (Japan) into 115V (US)? 

 

[Hawaiiancerveza]

Oh I wish we could test out audio here in Hawaii but there are hardly any audiophiles here.  I doubt there are any Stax or electrostatic amps or ear speakers too.  IF there is I think I could count it on one hand.  

 

[Pirx]

Quote:

Originally Posted by spritzer /img/forum/go_quote.gif

 
I think the cut off voltage is 20VDC but I'm not sure.  Too lazy to look up the schematic... 
 
There are two variable resistors per channel, one controls the balance and the other one controls the offset.  You adjust via the holes in the side of the chassis. 
 
Outputstage bias is fixed.  The only change with this mod is to move the feedback loop so that it covers all of the stages. 
 
 

Thank you for your help Spritzer !!!

 

 

[NamelessPFG]

I just got my SR-202 + SRM-212. Pretty much what I expected.
 
However, there is one thing I can't quite wrap my head around...how to remove the fork/"case holder" that holds the earcup on these Nova/numerical-style headbands. One of them has its prongs broken, and I have a replacement slated to arrive tomorrow...but that won't do me much good if I can't figure out how to remove the broken one without wrecking the whole thing.

 

[John Buchanan]

I'm guessing you mean you have to remove the case holder from the arc. If you closely look above where the case holders insert into the arc, there is a small metal hollow pin that is inserted into the plastic, You need a punch of the correct size to knock it out and then the case holder will come out to be replaced. After the case holder is replaced, you can usually reinsert the pin using just your finger pressure. It's easy with the right sized pin, trust me.

 

[DaveBSC]

Quote:

Quote:

I was considering getting the Calyx several months ago, but went with the Cary Xciter, mainly because they're located in the US if there's any need for repairs or warranty stuff.  That said, I'm still curious about the Calyx and how it compares to other high-end offerings, including DACs that are higher in price (Weiss, Berkeley, Antelope, etc.).  If you have any insight to provide on this, I'd appreciate it.

 
I've seen the Calyx described by one Australian reviewer as about 90% of the performance of the Weiss DAC-202, and for what it's worth, by several people including the US distributor as considerably better than the $2700 Ayre QB-9. Streamlength isn't the only game in town anymore. Calyx uses the XMOS system, which is starting to become pretty popular. The April Music Eximus is also using it, for example.
 
You can power the Calyx three ways, USB (good) the wall-wart (better) or a dedicated linear power supply feeding the 5V DC input (best). Until now people have been using KingRex PSUs for that, but now Calyx has released their own "CLPS" power supply for it so that's no longer necessary.

 

[DaveBSC]

Quote:

Is there any downside in using a transformer with the SRM-717 to convert 100V (Japan) into 115V (US)? 

If it's a good one, probably not. You can also have the 717 re-wired for 117V.
 

 

[Fugue]

I have the SR 404 headphones. Does the newer 504 have better bass? The lack of bass response is my only criticism of the 404s. At one point, Stax made some closed electrostats, and presumably they would have better bass. Has anyone heard them. (Sorry if this came up earlier, but I haven't time to wade through 1128 pages of responses!)

 

[NamelessPFG]

 
Quote:

I'm guessing you mean you have to remove the case holder from the arc. If you closely look above where the case holders insert into the arc, there is a small metal hollow pin that is inserted into the plastic, You need a punch of the correct size to knock it out and then the case holder will come out to be replaced. After the case holder is replaced, you can usually reinsert the pin using just your finger pressure. It's easy with the right sized pin, trust me.

 
That is indeed exactly what I mean.
 
I see the pin you're talking about and tried to push it out before with all sorts of pins and bent paperclips and whatnot, but to no avail. I guess I just haven't found the right-sized pin yet, even though some of them would seem to be the right size.
 
Unfortunately, I lack proper punching tools if that's what it takes...
 
...This is proving to be the most infuriating thing I've attempted to do in a while.
 
That is, until I figured out that a narrow-shafted Torx T6 bit mounted on a screwdriver with a flat back did the trick. Now, to wait until tomorrow for the replacement fork...

 

[verwandlung]

Quote:

If it's a good one, probably not. You can also have the 717 re-wired for 117V.
 

Thanks. I am aware that this can be re-wired. Anyway, the amp is no longer for sale. 

 

[John Buchanan]

Quote:

 
 
That is indeed exactly what I mean.
 
I see the pin you're talking about and tried to push it out before with all sorts of pins and bent paperclips and whatnot, but to no avail. I guess I just haven't found the right-sized pin yet, even though some of them would seem to be the right size.
 
Unfortunately, I lack proper punching tools if that's what it takes...
 
...This is proving to be the most infuriating thing I've attempted to do in a while.
 
That is, until I figured out that a narrow-shafted Torx T6 bit mounted on a screwdriver with a flat back did the trick. Now, to wait until tomorrow for the replacement fork...

Getting the pins back in is much easier - you should be able to just push them in with your fingers. Well done!
 

 

[John Buchanan]

Quote:

I have the SR 404 headphones. Does the newer 504 have better bass? The lack of bass response is my only criticism of the 404s. At one point, Stax made some closed electrostats, and presumably they would have better bass. Has anyone heard them. (Sorry if this came up earlier, but I haven't time to wade through 1128 pages of responses!)

You might want to do a search for "Stax 4070" for plenty of information on these closed back electrostatics.

 

[NamelessPFG]

Just got the replacement "case holder"/fork today. Yama's/STAX USA sure likes to ship big boxes for such a small part.
 
The replacement part is noticeably stiffer than what originally shipped on the SR-202, but I did manage to get it on the earcup just fine. All is well now.
 
That is, so long as that "mosquito noise"/squealing doesn't return. It wasn't an interconnect issue on the prior owner's part after all. When it gets going, it even persists after I unplug the headphones, until I short the pins with my finger. It seems to be random as to when it shows up and when it doesn't.