post your grado mods....
May 19, 2013 at 3:27 PM Post #3,016 of 8,992
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The ideal case (for me, because I want to hear what my wooden cups sound like, in other words to have the mechanical vibrations of the driver transferred to the cups) is when the driver fits snugly into the wood of the cup itself.
 
If I don't have that, I would try to achieve a very snug fit with different rigid tape/paper-like materials, at best a stripe of damp wood (with properly calculated length / width / thickness) wrapped, pressed and dried around the driver.

 
I think wood glue would be a really good candidate.  It has been used musical instruments particularly cellos and Gibson guitars.  Sound transfer to the tonewood really works in both cases.  You don't get the same effect with bolted on components even with maximum contact between wood parts.
 
 
May 20, 2013 at 9:00 AM Post #3,017 of 8,992
The thing is, you're trying to fill a gap between the wooden cup and the plastic driver, which is not exactly like gluing two wooden parts/faces of a musical instrument together.
 
But it could be a good idea if you don't plan on ever taking out your drivers and you want a permanent result, to add a layer of a special glue before the final insertion, to make sure everything is “bonded”.
 
May 21, 2013 at 6:56 PM Post #3,018 of 8,992
I was going to sell my SR80is after finishing my magnums, but the SPC cable I bought was a little too short for my magnums, so I decided to try it on the SR80i. The result was more than satisfying, and I do think they change the sound a little. So I decided to keep these for portable purposes.
The result is a little more open and detailed sound, a little on the bright side. Psychological or not, I like it. Besides, the look and feel of the headphones/cables is worth the trouble :)





About the wood; I like the approach of vibro labs. They use a foam tape between the driver and the cups. Don't you think it will absorb some of the drivers vibrations, leaving the sound colored only by the wood? (Hope this makes sense in English)
 
May 22, 2013 at 5:25 PM Post #3,019 of 8,992
Yeah no, I think the contrary actually :/, no matter how practical this solution may be, I think that the foam tape is going to absorb the mechanical vibration of the driver and that without this “mechanical contact” / “cups and driver making one” / snug fit, you will get less of the coloration of the wood of your cups. You will get to hear more of the driver itself, enclosed in a cave made of what, plastic/wood/metal, it doesn't know (or doesn't stand much a chance of knowing). I think that having a good mechanical contact between the driver and the cup is one of the more important ways to hear/have cup-related sonic effect... if you know what I mean?
 
That's how I conceive it, but I never done any listening test. And save for the RS-1, I never listened to any “woodies”... so I'm not 100% certain.
 
ThelostMIDrange however does recommend a tight “press-fit” (the driver held very securely by the cup itself) for more “mojo” to quote his exact word used. And now he did do multiple comparative tests between different driver-fit before drawing this conclusion. My “conceived” ideas of cup mechanics were strengthened (but not caused) by his results.
 
May 23, 2013 at 2:49 PM Post #3,023 of 8,992


dunno about ugly as so much as odd... The grain looks goofy on that right cup like its been filled with wood putty lol... What kind of wood were they made from?
 
May 23, 2013 at 3:11 PM Post #3,025 of 8,992
^well played
 
May 24, 2013 at 2:32 AM Post #3,026 of 8,992
Here is my first mod.
 
I just bought a RS1i and found the bowl pads a little uncomfortable. I decided to go with the reverse comfy pads, but I did not like my ears touching the driver grill. So I made "spacer rings" to just give it that extra distance. I'm very happy with the result. I bought high density foam rubber. I got two thicknesses 2mm & 5mm, but found 2mm best.
 
This is now way more comfotable!
 
The sound is amazing especially the bass. I found with my ears touching the grill that there was a harshness, but that is gone now.
 
Tools used: 41mm & 55mm WAD punches and a hammer.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
May 24, 2013 at 4:50 PM Post #3,027 of 8,992
Quote:
dunno about ugly as so much as odd... The grain looks goofy on that right cup like its been filled with wood putty lol... What kind of wood were they made from?

These are made with African Mahogany, someone asked me to put some red stain on them and this is what happened.
Quote:
Depends on the butt I guess.

get it?

Yes. Ha!
 
May 25, 2013 at 2:17 AM Post #3,029 of 8,992
Anyone have any good suggestions for me?
Want to hide the cabling from each cup but can't think of any good ideas. I tried running it through the headband but it's almost impossible without cutting it open and I don't want to do that.


IMG_20130524_230428_zpsfba69a19.jpg
 
May 25, 2013 at 6:49 AM Post #3,030 of 8,992
If you attach your cable to the end of a thin metal rod, can't you push it through the headband and then push though the headband metal arch through after? (or just tape your cable to the metal arch and push them through together)
 

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