[wavid]

I have a pair of sr60i and a pair of sr225i and will most likely only keep one of them ( they sound waaay too similar to me to keep both ).

I have some sr325 cups and wood cups to use.

If the sr60i drivers are so similar to the sr225 is it a waste to use the sr225 drivers for modding?

If I decide to keep both of them, which one would benefit from the wood cups and which one would benefit from the sr325 cups?

 

[jerrikko]

I have a pair of sr60i and a pair of sr225i and will most likely only keep one of them ( they sound waaay too similar to me to keep both ).

I have some sr325 cups and wood cups to use.

If the sr60i drivers are so similar to the sr225 is it a waste to use the sr225 drivers for modding?

If I decide to keep both of them, which one would benefit from the wood cups and which one would benefit from the sr325 cups?

This exactly. Yes, please. I am in precisely the same position (sr60 + sr225 + cups). Except in mine also have a pair of V8s (not 8.1 sigh but still very good) & wood cups are 7keys excellent work & the metal cups are c6s rhydon put together. Really any recommendations would be most welcome

 

[dhruvmeena96]

What are you trying to accomplish with an Isobaric design?
An Isobaric design will only degrade the sound for several reasons.

Please enlighten me

From what I know, isobaric pushpull system reduces distortion due to linear diaphragm movement, add more power handling if done in series, dampens the treble region peaks due to added resistance and inductance(which I always find sweeter due to increased sensitivity). Bass gets slight low end boost due to higher coil movement.

I dont find anything except of higher power requirements.

I have done a lot of mods, but none were grado.... I am jumping into it

But I have completed everything in Loudspeaker and headphone handbook by John Borwick(and I do mean it, with confidence)

Did some BLON b8 wood chassis and akg k702 driver mod.

And yup, I was also thinking of 3D printed Carbon fiber Grado...

It will look cool and would be lighter

I have to find some companies here in India who do that

@7keys (sorry bro, for specifically tagging....but it was easier as it was saved on my android keyboard)

And other members.

 

[Konstantin690]

Please enlighten me

From what I know, isobaric pushpull system reduces distortion due to linear diaphragm movement, add more power handling if done in series, dampens the treble region peaks due to added resistance and inductance(which I always find sweeter due to increased sensitivity). Bass gets slight low end boost due to higher coil movement.

I dont find anything except of higher power requirements.

I have done a lot of mods, but none were grado.... I am jumping into it

But I have completed everything in Loudspeaker and headphone handbook by John Borwick(and I do mean it, with confidence)

Did some BLON b8 wood chassis and akg k702 driver mod.

And yup, I was also thinking of 3D printed Carbon fiber Grado...

It will look cool and would be lighter

I have to find some companies here in India who do that

@7keys (sorry bro, for specifically tagging....but it was easier as it was saved on my android keyboard)

And other members.

The main advantage of an Isobaric driver arrangement is that that you can reduce the cabinet volume in HALF and still maintain the low tuned frequency of a double sized box and that's in CLOSED box.
For it to maintain the supposedly "reduced distortion due to linear diaphragm movement" the two drivers must be PERFECTLY MATCHED in their Impedance curve (good luck with this) if wired in series, that's why a parallel drivers connection is preferred.

Open back headphones are are NOT tuned box (by volume) systems.
The added Inductance and resistance of a series connection does not provide high frequency damping, but, high frequency roll-off, different things.
The close Magnet-to-Diaphragm arrangement will cause uneven magnet interaction between the two drivers, mainly on the back driver reducing it's efficiency, making the drivers even more mismatched and throwing the "reduced distortion due to linear diaphragm movement" out the window.
Last but not least, the back driver needs to be filtered of any Mid and High frequencies, "firing" full range on the back of the front drivers diaphragm is (self-explanatory) not a good idea.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

The main advantage of an Isobaric driver arrangement is that that you can reduce the cabinet volume in HALF and still maintain the low tuned frequency of a double sized box and that's in CLOSED box.
For it to maintain the supposedly "reduced distortion due to linear diaphragm movement" the two drivers must be PERFECTLY MATCHED in their Impedance curve (good luck with this) if wired in series, that's why a parallel drivers connection is preferred.

Open back headphones are are NOT tuned box (by volume) systems.
The added Inductance and resistance of a series connection does not provide high frequency damping, but, high frequency roll-off, different things.
The close Magnet-to-Diaphragm arrangement will cause uneven magnet interaction between the two drivers, mainly on the back driver reducing it's efficiency, making the drivers even more mismatched and throwing the "reduced distortion due to linear diaphragm movement" out the window.
Last but not least, the back driver needs to be filtered of any Mid and High frequencies, "firing" full range on the back of the front drivers diaphragm is (self-explanatory) not a good idea.

Well....hmmm

You are right..

Well can you recommend me a good grado driver.

I have tried nhoord v2 red in BLON b8 chassis with adapter and it sounds amazing.

I am thinking of making a TOTL headphones....

Money ain't an issue here

And I would be doing resonance modelling on grado back chamber too..

 

[Konstantin690]

Well....hmmm

You are right..

Well can you recommend me a good grado driver.

I have tried nhoord v2 red in BLON b8 chassis with adapter and it sounds amazing.

I am thinking of making a TOTL headphones....

Money ain't an issue here

And I would be doing resonance modelling on grado back chamber too..

You should talk to @sling5s as he has tried pretty much all the Grado drivers available and is more qualified to give you a honest opinion.

 

[fleasbaby]

I have a pair of sr60i and a pair of sr225i and will most likely only keep one of them ( they sound waaay too similar to me to keep both ).

I have some sr325 cups and wood cups to use.

If the sr60i drivers are so similar to the sr225 is it a waste to use the sr225 drivers for modding?

If I decide to keep both of them, which one would benefit from the wood cups and which one would benefit from the sr325 cups?

This exactly. Yes, please. I am in precisely the same position (sr60 + sr225 + cups). Except in mine also have a pair of V8s (not 8.1 sigh but still very good) & wood cups are 7keys excellent work & the metal cups are c6s rhydon put together. Really any recommendations would be most welcome

I have always found the SR225 series to be particulalrly responsive to modding. The SR60 is a nice entry point that you can abuse without too much financial cost, but I prefer the SR225.

The main advantage of an Isobaric driver arrangement is that that you can reduce the cabinet volume in HALF and still maintain the low tuned frequency of a double sized box and that's in CLOSED box.
For it to maintain the supposedly "reduced distortion due to linear diaphragm movement" the two drivers must be PERFECTLY MATCHED in their Impedance curve (good luck with this) if wired in series, that's why a parallel drivers connection is preferred.

Open back headphones are are NOT tuned box (by volume) systems.
The added Inductance and resistance of a series connection does not provide high frequency damping, but, high frequency roll-off, different things.
The close Magnet-to-Diaphragm arrangement will cause uneven magnet interaction between the two drivers, mainly on the back driver reducing it's efficiency, making the drivers even more mismatched and throwing the "reduced distortion due to linear diaphragm movement" out the window.
Last but not least, the back driver needs to be filtered of any Mid and High frequencies, "firing" full range on the back of the front drivers diaphragm is (self-explanatory) not a good idea.

Nicely put...

You should talk to @sling5s as he has tried pretty much all the Grado drivers available and is more qualified to give you a honest opinion.

Agreed.

 

[ookic]

Got some heavily modded Alessandro MS1i's over here. Enjoy!

Here is the list of all the upgrades done:

1) Vented the drivers and replaced the grills. The MS1i's audio clarity and soundstage is immense, but I found they lacked some bass. The result of vesting was a warmer sound that still had loads of detail and far better bass.

2) Felted the cups and drivers. This made a big difference, it got rid of the slightly too bright and "tinny" characteristics, giving way to a very clear, detailed and warm sound.

3) Added Van Damme Quick-release Silver cables. This vastly improved audio detail and made the headphones easier to carry around.

4) Replaced the stock plastic head band with a custom made padded calf leather one. This made a world of difference in terms of comfort, the stock band was seriously uncomfortable after an hour of listening.

5) Replaced the stock foam ear pads with softer "pleather" red ones. Another leap in comfort, it also made the sound a bit warmer.

6) Custom paint-job on the cup logo-ring thing. Made the all black cups have a bit more character by adding a white contrasting ring to them.

7) Replaced the plastic adjustment clamps with proper metal ones. This is as much an aesthetic upgrade as a functional one - no more slipping!

So yeah, pretty heavily customised!

Where are those clamps from?!!?! They're gorgeous! I need them!

 

[ookic]

Folks! I'm trying to put a new headband on my sr225, but i'm having trouble getting the old headband off without shredding apart the insides of my rodblocks. The glue is loose, so there's tons of wiggle room, but it just won't come off the whole way. Is it possible to get them off without harming my headphones?

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Where are those clamps from?!!?! They're gorgeous! I need them!

Get beautiful.biz wool and leather earcups for clamp, comfort and bass issues

 

[legopart]

How to open this headphones?

 

[Geezer Rock 001]

There is a small plastic pin in the rod block that pops into the band. If to you bend the band slightly at the block it should pop out.

Spin AF had a good video on it.

 

[Asimauve]

Anyone here know how 'modifyable' the GW100 are ? I am using these daily for my commute and already see war on the plastic components

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Anyone here know how 'modifyable' the GW100 are ? I am using these daily for my commute and already see war on the plastic components

i dont know why, but new grado headband is miles better than old one and it fits other diy cups well(according to him)

now they should make it resistive like ZMF, so we can adjust hieght

@Asimauve

i will tell you, i have to take permission from my friend to swap

lets see

1. driver swap
2. cup swap

i will confirm and then tell, as i havent seen his modded cups, but i have tried it stock and i think new grado GW are better on tuning compared to old
way less peaky and more low end

now they dont sound GRADO, but normal headphone which can be a huge step

 

[fleasbaby]

Anyone here know how 'modifyable' the GW100 are ? I am using these daily for my commute and already see war on the plastic components

i dont know why, but new grado headband is miles better than old one and it fits other diy cups well(according to him)

now they should make it resistive like ZMF, so we can adjust hieght

@Asimauve

i will tell you, i have to take permission from my friend to swap

lets see

1. driver swap
2. cup swap

i will confirm and then tell, as i havent seen his modded cups, but i have tried it stock and i think new grado GW are better on tuning compared to old
way less peaky and more low end

now they dont sound GRADO, but normal headphone which can be a huge step

Ive been slacking, but have thoughts on at minimum replacing the driver sleeves with wooden ones. Need to get off my butt and buy a pair to take apart and examine. Betond the sleeves a driver upgrade should be possible too, and possibly (but not positive here) full wooden cups...that last one could be tricky though.