[zombywoof]

  Many places seem to sell after market leather headbands, but they don't seem to come with the metal insert/band inside that makes it possible to attach to block. Where can you purchase them?

I have changed several of the stock plastic Grado headband pads to leather (Turbulent Labs and ModHouse Audio), and always been able to reuse the spring steel part.  The steel strap is easily removed from the plastic Grado rod blocks with some gentle pulling.  Unless you are building the headphones from scratch (purchasing all the components, and not modding an existing pair), you should not need a replacement for the steel component.

 

[matchbox]

Hello everybody– I need some advice about aluminum cups. I put together an Ypsilon set with the cups pictured here:
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/793136/grado-modders-go-ypsilon-elleven-acoustica-drivers-and-builds-thread/375#post_13004927
 
That didn't work out, though the drivers were breaking in well, there just wasn't enough low end– present but too subtle, so I now have a pair of px100-ii drivers in there. I think I've seen the observation here that all-aluminum builds are bright and can be sibilant, which is what I'm hearing. Female, and some male vocals, distorted electric guitars, and older recordings are on the verge of grating away my ears (during extended listening). My question is if felt is the best method for taming the high end or is there something else I should do. Should I cover all the exposed metal inside the chamber & will it effect the detail? 
  I thought I would ask here since there are probably more folks who have experience with aluminum than at the other, Grado related threads.
 
  any input is appreciated

 

[DavidA]

 
Quote:

  Hello everybody– I need some advice about aluminum cups. I put together an Ypsilon set with the cups pictured here:
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/793136/grado-modders-go-ypsilon-elleven-acoustica-drivers-and-builds-thread/375#post_13004927
 
That didn't work out, though the drivers were breaking in well, there just wasn't enough low end– present but too subtle, so I now have a pair of px100-ii drivers in there. I think I've seen the observation here that all-aluminum builds are bright and can be sibilant, which is what I'm hearing. Female, and some male vocals, distorted electric guitars, and older recordings are on the verge of grating away my ears (during extended listening). My question is if felt is the best method for taming the high end or is there something else I should do. Should I cover all the exposed metal inside the chamber & will it effect the detail? 
  I thought I would ask here since there are probably more folks who have experience with aluminum than at the other, Grado related threads.
 
  any input is appreciated

I would try some dynamat in the cups to help bring up the bass, a piece of sorbothane on the back of the PX-100ii driver, and if you have a I cushion, cut a piece to put in front of the driver.
 

This is dynamat in the cups and sorbothane on the back of the driver.

 

[matchbox]

  I would try some dynamat in the cups to help bring up the bass, a piece of sorbothane on the back of the PX-100ii driver, and if you have a I cushion, cut a piece to put in front of the driver.
 

This is dynamat in the cups and sorbothane on the back of the driver.

Thanks–
 Will blue tac work as well as sorbothane for the back of the driver? That's what I've got sitting around at the moment.
 The bass is a little more foreword than my walnut SennGrado build, so it might be alright for now.

 

[DavidA]

 
Thanks–
 Will blue tac work as well as sorbothane for the back of the driver? That's what I've got sitting around at the moment.
 The bass is a little more foreword than my walnut SennGrado build, so it might be alright for now.

I never tried blue tac but I think its more like dynamat while sorbothane is a really different material, its a vibration absorbing / damping rubber like material which has different hardness ratings which seems to have different levels of damping.  I've also used sorbothane in the cups of my HE-400 along with a modified grill mod which transformed them to a really good headphone with great bass.
 
Since you are working with metal cups the sorbothane might work for you.
 
The dynamat adds mass to the housing helping the bass while the sorbothane reduces vibrations cleaning up the overall sound.  For me the sorbothane can make the treble less harsh due to the reduction of unwanted vibrations.

 

[matchbox]

Originally Posted by DavidA /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
 
Since you are working with metal cups the sorbothane might work for you.
 
The dynamat adds mass to the housing helping the bass while the sorbothane reduces vibrations cleaning up the overall sound.  For me the sorbothane can make the treble less harsh due to the reduction of unwanted vibrations.

Will give it a try & in the meantime I'll try encasing different materials in Blue Tac & attaching that to the back of the driver to see if it makes any improvement. thanks again...

 

[ambchang]

Also try putting on s cush.

 

[kugino]

finally finished whatever grado projects that were half-done...finished two woodies using walnut cups fleasbaby turned for me...both using sr225 drivers. and a recable of an sr60 i had lying around.
 
on another note, i have one good ypsilon driver, two sr225 end pieces with grill/button, and a plain grado vinyl headband that i'd sell for minimal cost if anyone thinks they could use them. i bought a pair of ypsilons earlier this year and one came DOA but trying to get them returned/exchanged was a PITA so i now have one working one. perhaps someone else has a working one they'd like to pair up. anyway, let me know if you're interested. i'll put up a FS on these things as well...
 
sr225/walnut/manta headband/large grado pads:
 


walnut cups/sr225 drivers/original cable:
 


sr60/mogami cable/switchcraft plug:
 


ypsilon drivers (one working)...PM me if you're interested:
 

 


sr225 end cap/grill:
 

 

[DavidA]

@kugino, nice work G, too bad you never got to hear the ypsilon, if you like PM me and see if we can get together so you can hear mine, also have a Nhoord build that you can listen to.
David A

 

[zombywoof]

@kugino
Would you be so kind as to provide some specifics regarding the Mogami cable that you used on the SR60.  I see that it is readily available, but there several options.  I have a pair of SR125 that are candidates for a new cable.
Thanks!

 

[kugino]

  @kugino
Would you be so kind as to provide some specifics regarding the Mogami cable that you used on the SR60.  I see that it is readily available, but there several options.  I have a pair of SR125 that are candidates for a new cable.
Thanks!

i use the mogami 2534. for the grados i take off the outer covering and the copper shielding. the paracord goes right over the 4 twisted wires...good luck!

 

[zombywoof]

 
i use the mogami 2534. for the grados i take off the outer covering and the copper shielding. the paracord goes right over the 4 twisted wires...good luck!

Many thanks.  Very helpful.

 

[retox]

Can someone help me with a pair of RS2 cans?  I need to disassemble one of the cups to re-solder the driver.  How do I take these apart.
I normally use hot water with the Prestige series but not sure what glue is used with the RS2.  And I don't think I want to use hot water with wood.
 
Any help is appreciated...
 
-retox

 

[fleasbaby]

  Can someone help me with a pair of RS2 cans?  I need to disassemble one of the cups to re-solder the driver.  How do I take these apart.
I normally use hot water with the Prestige series but not sure what glue is used with the RS2.  And I don't think I want to use hot water with wood.
 
Any help is appreciated...
 
-retox

 
...far safer to send them in to Grado. I have heard more sad stories than happy when it comes to dismantling RS1/RS2 Grados...the wood gets damaged frequently, and very, very often the drivers don't survive the experience.

 

[retox]

Good to know, I called Grado today and they said the cost was $100.00 flat fee to repair them.
Worth it to me to get them repaired.
 
Thanks
 
-retox