[GREQ]

Over 2 years ago in 2013, I posted up my modified Grado SR80
The 'white Grado':
 

 
After making this mod, I've been almost exclusively playing around with planar headphones both modern and mostly vintage.
I've learned a lot about basic headphone tuning along the way. 
 
My biggest gripe with Grados has always been piercing treble, which is why I switched to (not exclusively but mostly) planars, which often have more extended bass and softer treble texture than dynamics.
I have actually spent some time modifying dynamic headphone over the years also, but my SR80s have become sort of a show-piece rather than an actual listening tool the past two years.
I could bare it no longer and decided to do the most simple of modification I've learned along the way... and by gum, I'm glad I did! 

 
I wasn't expecting much of a difference due to previous experiences with other dynamic headphones, but this time the change was not only very real, but EXACTLY what I've wanted to do to Grados since I owned my first about 10 years ago.
 

The following mod reduces piercing treble frequencies.
It works and it sounds very good.

 

 
Simply apply MICROPORE TAPE to the outer-most holes on the ear-side of the driver.
The more holes you cover, the greater the treble-reducing effect.
(micropore or microporous tape is breathable first-aid kit tape)
 
I found this amount works best for my SR80 which also has two vent holes pierced in the driver-rear vents... your taste may vary.
 
If you dislike piercing treble frequencies just try this mod. It's quick, reversible and you lose nothing by trying it out!

 

[zeroone]

Hi to everyone, I am new to the forum and have been tinkering with my 80s for the past week with very good sonic results.
I have browsed the entire thread and have a couple of questions or perhaps ideas, both of which have been mentioned in passing but neither seem to have been persued in depth.
I am not new to DIY and have extensive experience with open baffle speakers, turntables, amps etc, just not headphones until now.
First up I suspect and from testing have confirmed for my ears at least that the rear cups should ideally be open cones with no grid/mesh with the lenght being adjusted to enhance the lower frequency range as desired. Additionally the cups should be ideally not the same height all the way around which in theory should smooth the cut off frequency. I have tried these ideas with temporary cups made from plastic and compared to tubes of various lengths. To my ears the unequal side cones provide an increase in dynamics with tight bass and very clear treble.
Next up it seems almost no one has looked at potential quality degradation due to the cover on the ear side of the drivers. As far as I can see these perforated plates are hard on the rear where they face the driver. I have no doubt that the high frequencies would reflect off the inner surface and then interact with the cone causing minor distortion and harshness to the upper register. At the very least I think the plate needs to have thin adhesive felt.
Beyond that I expect strong improvements could be realized by removing the plate completely and replacing it with thin mesh and then damping the mesh with differing densities of cloth material. I suspect that a denser cloth on the area that covers the rear part of the ear and progressively thinner material as you move towards the area covering the part over the very front of the ear would increase soundstage and depth whilst keeping the upper register smooth.
I have also like many tried taping the cups, the effect is pronounced, but I feel that either the tape should not go all the way around or be something slightly less sealing for an ideal result, i am sure that Grado phones are designed to take some advantage of the sound leaking in through the foam to give a degree of ambience and depth, it is just a matter of better controlling the sealing effect and most likely the direction from where it is allowed to leak into the pad, I suspect a little leakage from the front of the ear side would be best.
Anyhow just some thoughts from a head fi newbie, perhaps someone may have something to add or maybe point me in a better direction. In the meantime thanks for a great forum.

 

[fleasbaby]

Hi to everyone, I am new to the forum and have been tinkering with my 80s for the past week with very good sonic results.
I have browsed the entire thread and have a couple of questions or perhaps ideas, both of which have been mentioned in passing but neither seem to have been persued in depth.
I am not new to DIY and have extensive experience with open baffle speakers, turntables, amps etc, just not headphones until now.
First up I suspect and from testing have confirmed for my ears at least that the rear cups should ideally be open cones with no grid/mesh with the lenght being adjusted to enhance the lower frequency range as desired. Additionally the cups should be ideally not the same height all the way around which in theory should smooth the cut off frequency. I have tried these ideas with temporary cups made from plastic and compared to tubes of various lengths. To my ears the unequal side cones provide an increase in dynamics with tight bass and very clear treble.
Next up it seems almost no one has looked at potential quality degradation due to the cover on the ear side of the drivers. As far as I can see these perforated plates are hard on the rear where they face the driver. I have no doubt that the high frequencies would reflect off the inner surface and then interact with the cone causing minor distortion and harshness to the upper register. At the very least I think the plate needs to have thin adhesive felt.
Beyond that I expect strong improvements could be realized by removing the plate completely and replacing it with thin mesh and then damping the mesh with differing densities of cloth material. I suspect that a denser cloth on the area that covers the rear part of the ear and progressively thinner material as you move towards the area covering the part over the very front of the ear would increase soundstage and depth whilst keeping the upper register smooth.
I have also like many tried taping the cups, the effect is pronounced, but I feel that either the tape should not go all the way around or be something slightly less sealing for an ideal result, i am sure that Grado phones are designed to take some advantage of the sound leaking in through the foam to give a degree of ambience and depth, it is just a matter of better controlling the sealing effect and most likely the direction from where it is allowed to leak into the pad, I suspect a little leakage from the front of the ear side would be best.
Anyhow just some thoughts from a head fi newbie, perhaps someone may have something to add or maybe point me in a better direction. In the meantime thanks for a great forum.

 
Hello! Welcome to the thread
 
Those are some good observations. In a non-Grado build I recently noticed improved sound doing away with the rear grill. I worry about debris getting in without it though. I have been trying to come up with ways to get that improvement without risking my drivers, but to no avail yet. If you have any thoughts, would be glad to hear them....
 
For length of cup, what was the ideal length you settled on? I have been turning my own cups and find an overall length on 1.25 inches to be optimum...

 

[Jbmorrey]

I currently own a pair of Grado 325 Magnum V3. I am pleased with them, love their clarity and crispness. I was at a recent meet in Austin and auditioned a pair of Rs1's and really enjoyed the difference, and more warmth. It was a nice change. Unfortunately, I am not in a position to afford the Rs1, and I had a thought. With my Magnum's I upgraded the leather headband, so I have a spare leather headband, I am thinking of getting a pair of sr225's switching out the headband, purchasing some wood cups and then perhaps putting bowls on them. How close would that be to an Rs1? I am sure it wont be exact, but could it come close? also, which model of 225 would work best?
 
I guess I'm looking for a poor mans Rs1 !!
 
Thanks,
James

 

[Arty McGhee]

  I currently own a pair of Grado 325 Magnum V3. I am pleased with them, love their clarity and crispness. I was at a recent meet in Austin and auditioned a pair of Rs1's and really enjoyed the difference, and more warmth. It was a nice change. Unfortunately, I am not in a position to afford the Rs1, and I had a thought. With my Magnum's I upgraded the leather headband, so I have a spare leather headband, I am thinking of getting a pair of sr225's switching out the headband, purchasing some wood cups and then perhaps putting bowls on them. How close would that be to an Rs1? I am sure it wont be exact, but could it come close? also, which model of 225 would work best?
 
I guess I'm looking for a poor mans Rs1 !!
 
Thanks,
James

don't know what an RS-1 sounds like but you will a pretty good sounding headphone
 
let me ask this to everyone- is there an advantage to using an sr225 as donor over an sr 60/80 (my usual go-to's) 

 

[chontler]

I bought some busted 325s with the pcbs toasted from some bad soldering. So I've put my 225 drivers in the 325 housings and they sound nothing like my working 325s. So there is definitely big differences in drivers. I've since managed to ressurect the toasted 325s so will be putting them in some woodies. If they sound like the gs1000 I'll be a happy man, but I'm thinking no

 

[fleasbaby]

  don't know what an RS-1 sounds like but you will a pretty good sounding headphone
 
let me ask this to everyone- is there an advantage to using an sr225 as donor over an sr 60/80 (my usual go-to's) 

In my experience with the SR225i and SR225 and the SR225 pink, yes. Its a better sounding driver in there.

 

[Harry Manback]

Does anyone have a schematic of an RS1i cup?

 

[Gr33nL34f]

any ms1000 owners in here? 

 

[GasMaskMan]

Reposting this here from the DYI thread:
Figured I'd ask here.
I gotta recable my Grado SR325i, never done this before, but I did desolder one cup.|
Here's a list of what I plan to get:
Mogami W2534 7 ft
Rean Neutrik NYS228G
 
What else do I need? Heat shrink, right? I have a soldering iron and stuff.
Also when it comes to the y-point do I strip the tubes and just combine the wires?
Never done this before, so I'm a bit unsure of how to go about doing this.
Thanks!

 

[fleasbaby]

  Reposting this here from the DYI thread:
Figured I'd ask here.
I gotta recable my Grado SR325i, never done this before, but I did desolder one cup.|
Here's a list of what I plan to get:
Mogami W2534 7 ft
Rean Neutrik NYS228G
 
What else do I need? Heat shrink, right? I have a soldering iron and stuff.
Also when it comes to the y-point do I strip the tubes and just combine the wires?
Never done this before, so I'm a bit unsure of how to go about doing this.
Thanks!

 
@PETEREK is the man for this type of thing.
 
I do know for sure that you don't want to combine the wires at the Y split. You want 4 continuous wires. Two will go to the right driver, two will go to the left driver. One from each driver will go to the ground on the plug. The other wire from the right driver (not the one connected to the ground in the plug) will go to the right post in the plug. The other wire on the left driver (not the one connected to the ground in the plug) will go to the left post in the plug.

 

[7keys]

  Reposting this here from the DYI thread:
Figured I'd ask here.
I gotta recable my Grado SR325i, never done this before, but I did desolder one cup.|
Here's a list of what I plan to get:
Mogami W2534 7 ft
Rean Neutrik NYS228G
 
What else do I need? Heat shrink, right? I have a soldering iron and stuff.
Also when it comes to the y-point do I strip the tubes and just combine the wires?
Never done this before, so I'm a bit unsure of how to go about doing this.
Thanks!

You can ask all your questions here, these guys will be glad to help 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/676402/diy-cable-questions-and-comments-thread

 

[diavolo rosso]

anyone here ever tried 325i with wooden cup (mahogany, rosewood)?
 
will it refine the brightness of 325i?
 
I feel that 325i is to bright for me

 

[JoeDoe]

  anyone here ever tried 325i with wooden cup (mahogany, rosewood)?
 
will it refine the brightness of 325i?
 
I feel that 325i is to bright for me

In my experience it does. Housing the 325 in a wooden cup with quarter-modded S cush or 414 pads can certainly mellow them out!

 

[BrianKT]

Well, I suppose it was bound to happen sooner or later.....I bricked a driver (insert heavy sigh here). Anybody have a spare SR60 driver they're willing to sell? Thought I'd check here first. Otherwise I guess it's off to eBay I go........