post your grado mods....
Jan 14, 2011 at 4:39 PM Post #1,411 of 8,992
Well, These are grado mods, they just don't have a Grado attatched to them. Now I have 3 modded cup pairs and 1 pair of headphones. I still suck at getting the stain to take evenly.

 
Jan 14, 2011 at 10:31 PM Post #1,412 of 8,992
 
I will keep these things in mind in the future if I ever pull together enough funds to spend on headphones (next purchase might possibly be a portable amp).
Thanks for the critique on my recable. Your reasons and comments are insightful and I be reminded of these posts if I end up modding any other headphones I can get my hands on 
smily_headphones1.gif


Quote:
How did I know? Well, we have been working with centimetres for quite a while now. :)
 
Anyway, I understand all the uses of mini-xlrs etc... but I still don't think it was a good idea.   

Some reasons:
1) Grado doesn't improve much with amping, especially not balanced (though people seem to get good results with balanced RS-1s);
2) MS-1 is not worth balancing imo, because of reason 1 + it's easy to drive them to full potential;
3) You will need at least two xlr3 connectors, or one xlr4 for balancing
4) Bulky
 
Better, imo, would have been to solder on a 4pin xlr connector on the end of the cable and make some adapters.



 
Those look great. The somewhat convex mesh is a nice touch. I want to see the other modded cup pairs!
 
Quote:
Well, These are grado mods, they just don't have a Grado attatched to them. Now I have 3 modded cup pairs and 1 pair of headphones. I still suck at getting the stain to take evenly.



 
Jan 14, 2011 at 10:36 PM Post #1,413 of 8,992
 
Well, These are grado mods, they just don't have a Grado attatched to them. Now I have 3 modded cup pairs and 1 pair of headphones. I still suck at getting the stain to take evenly.

 
With applying stain, there are different schools of thought.  Some think you should go very light, with a natural-fiber brush, erring on the side of a dry coat.  I've also met some who think you should use a cloth and just pour the stain on like catsup and spread it all around as if you were waxing a car.  Whatever the case, I like the cups you built.  I think they look pretty.  I also like the grills.  What material did you go with for this?
 
 
Jan 14, 2011 at 11:10 PM Post #1,414 of 8,992
Thanks for the positive thoughts, I used a letter tray for the mesh in the grills, cutting it into an octagon and roughly bending it into a cup around one of the "wheel" type things thats left over after drilling the cups. I then cut releif cuts in the sides and continued folding over and pressing ou on the edges from the inside with a flathead screwdriver until I got a somewhat round shape. Then I glue them in with hobby glue. For stain I just dipp an old tshirt in the stain and wipe it on there, hahaha. Now i'll have to make another pair to try the brush method. I'll need to find a way to get rid of all these mediocre cups when I'm done, hahaha
 
yoshiprongha, my other set of finished cups is a few pages back, on the headphones, and I'm currently making a pair thats an exact copy.
 
Jan 15, 2011 at 12:05 AM Post #1,415 of 8,992
I had to remove the cups on my SR-125 because the cables came unglued inside (old pair) and were rattling around. I'm working on finding a lathe to use to make wood cups. Can you suggest an inexpensive wood that will finish well and sound great? Any other tips or mods I should do while in there?
 
Jan 15, 2011 at 1:50 AM Post #1,416 of 8,992


Quote:
I had to remove the cups on my SR-125 because the cables came unglued inside (old pair) and were rattling around. I'm working on finding a lathe to use to make wood cups. Can you suggest an inexpensive wood that will finish well and sound great? Any other tips or mods I should do while in there?


I'd suggest going straight for the expensive stuff (Cocobolo), but if you want cheap Bilavideo suggested Red Oak.
 
Jan 15, 2011 at 10:57 AM Post #1,417 of 8,992
Quote:
I'd suggest going straight for the expensive stuff

 
I guess my #1 concern with that is ruining them! I've never used a lathe, but I think my local community center has a wood shop I can convince them to let me use. If I could find someone to make them for me, I might do that, but I can't seem to find anyone.
 
Cocobolo @ Rockler is $25 for a 3x3x12 blank... does that sound about right? http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19219&filter=cocobolo
This Mora is really beautiful: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22663&rrt=1
 
Jan 15, 2011 at 3:45 PM Post #1,418 of 8,992
I guess my #1 concern with that is ruining them! I've never used a lathe, but I think my local community center has a wood shop I can convince them to let me use. If I could find someone to make them for me, I might do that, but I can't seem to find anyone.
 
Cocobolo @ Rockler is $25 for a 3x3x12 blank... does that sound about right? http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19219&filter=cocobolo
This Mora is really beautiful: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22663&rrt=1



I'd suggest getting a piece of maple along with a piece of cocobolo. Use the maple as a test run and use the cocobolo (or what ever more expensive wood you choose as the final product). The lathe isn't really a difficult machine to operate, but it takes practice to turn good work. 
 
You should check out a few youtube tutorials before you start since you've never turned before. HaydenHD on youtube is my favorite to watch, he turns a lot of interesting things that you can translate to grado cups. 
 
Just remember to keep the design of your cups VERY simple to start, and remember to measure very carefully. If I were you I'd look for a blank thats 4x4x2, that way you have some extra material to hog off since your a novice. I usually make my cups about 3-4 in in diameter (depending on the type of cup) so 4in should give you at least an inch to work with.
 
Lastly, when working with Hardwoods, make sure the chisels are very sharp. If possible, have one of the people at your local shop sharpen each of the chisels that you're going to use. Which reminds me, make sure to view tutorials on which chisels you need to use and how to properly use them. To get you started, I generally use: a bowl gouge, a scew chisel, a roughing gouge, a parting tool, a spindle gouge, and a custom tool made by EasyWood Tools. 
 
There's a million more things that you'll need to know before starting but hopefully you'll watch/read some tutorials before you start Turning on the Lathe. 
 
Good Luck, and I hope it works out for you as Turning can be really fun. 
 
Jan 15, 2011 at 3:47 PM Post #1,419 of 8,992


Quote:
I guess my #1 concern with that is ruining them! I've never used a lathe, but I think my local community center has a wood shop I can convince them to let me use. If I could find someone to make them for me, I might do that, but I can't seem to find anyone.
 
Cocobolo @ Rockler is $25 for a 3x3x12 blank... does that sound about right? http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19219&filter=cocobolo
This Mora is really beautiful: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22663&rrt=1



I'd suggest getting a piece of maple along with a piece of cocobolo. Use the maple as a test run and use the cocobolo (or what ever more expensive wood you choose as the final product). The lathe isn't really a difficult machine to operate, but it takes practice to turn good work. 
 
You should check out a few youtube tutorials before you start since you've never turned before. HaydenHD on youtube is my favorite to watch, he turns a lot of interesting things that you can translate to grado cups. 
 
Just remember to keep the design of your cups VERY simple to start, and remember to measure very carefully. If I were you I'd look for a blank thats 4x4x2, that way you have some extra material to hog off since your a novice. I usually make my cups about 3-4 in in diameter (depending on the type of cup) so 4in should give you at least an inch to work with.
 
Lastly, when working with Hardwoods, make sure the chisels are very sharp. If possible, have one of the people at your local shop sharpen each of the chisels that you're going to use. Which reminds me, make sure to view tutorials on which chisels you need to use and how to properly use them. To get you started, I generally use: a bowl gouge, a scew chisel, a roughing gouge, a parting tool, a spindle gouge, and a custom tool made by EasyWood Tools. 
 
There's a million more things that you'll need to know before starting but hopefully you'll watch/read some tutorials before you start Turning on the Lathe. 
 
Good Luck, and I hope it works out for you as Turning can be really fun. 



by the way, i read that when handling bare/unsealed/finished cocobolo wood, you have to be careful of the dust because it's a real irritant to the eyes
 
Jan 15, 2011 at 3:51 PM Post #1,420 of 8,992
by the way, i read that when handling bare/unsealed/finished cocobolo wood, you have to be careful of the dust because it's a real irritant to the eyes


 
Agreed, make sure you wear a mask and a face shield when working with any wood, but especially when working with cocobolo. Very Toxic stuff. If you can get you hands on a respirator that would be even better. Also, wear gloves, you won't find out if you're allergic to the wood until it's too late and you're breaking out in rashes.
 
Jan 15, 2011 at 3:54 PM Post #1,421 of 8,992


Quote:
by the way, i read that when handling bare/unsealed/finished cocobolo wood, you have to be careful of the dust because it's a real irritant to the eyes


 
Agreed, make sure you wear a mask and a face shield when working with any wood, but especially when working with cocobolo. Very Toxic stuff. If you can get you hands on a respirator that would be even better. Also, wear gloves, you won't find out if you're allergic to the wood until it's too late and you're breaking out in rashes.



when I received the cocobolo woodies from a fellow head-fier, my first thought after reading about the wood was, how puffy did bigrock get?
 
Jan 15, 2011 at 4:03 PM Post #1,422 of 8,992


Quote:
Quote:
by the way, i read that when handling bare/unsealed/finished cocobolo wood, you have to be careful of the dust because it's a real irritant to the eyes


 
Agreed, make sure you wear a mask and a face shield when working with any wood, but especially when working with cocobolo. Very Toxic stuff. If you can get you hands on a respirator that would be even better. Also, wear gloves, you won't find out if you're allergic to the wood until it's too late and you're breaking out in rashes.



when I received the cocobolo woodies from a fellow head-fier, my first thought after reading about the wood was, how puffy did bigrock get?


Haha, luckily I'm not allergic to cocobolo, which is surprising as I'm allergic to everything else in this world.
bigsmile_face.gif

 
 
Jan 15, 2011 at 4:10 PM Post #1,423 of 8,992
Great info...I have aways been interested in woodworking...I cannot cut or measure to save my life though. My granddad is setting up a wood shop at his house...I need to find out if he will have a lathe. If so...I may get some practice in and turn some cups. I have a great idea that I would like to get in wood.
 
Jan 17, 2011 at 11:13 AM Post #1,424 of 8,992
Here is some pics of an old sr80i mod:

 
Painted in rastafari Colours, new leather headband and aluminum blocks.

 
I use a monster beats by Dre cable so i can use it as a headset.
 

 
I think they are pretty street
gs1000.gif

 
What do you think?
 
Jan 17, 2011 at 11:33 AM Post #1,425 of 8,992
I was thinking of doing the jack mod while I've got my headphones open. Then I can change the cord out or go dual mono whenever I want. Is this a good jack to use (Switchcraft #41): http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SC238-ND
 

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