post your grado mods....
Sep 3, 2017 at 9:10 AM Post #7,921 of 8,987
Actually gents, @Oscar-HiFi was referring to SMC connectors (not drivers) in regards to gluing :wink:

"I'm thinking now is a good time to glue the drivers into the cups once I have the sockets installed, what is the best kind of glue to use for that purpose?"

Only reason I brought it up because of the above quote from @Oscar-HiFi :-D
 
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Sep 3, 2017 at 9:32 AM Post #7,922 of 8,987
"I'm thinking now is a good time to glue the drivers into the cups once I have the sockets installed, what is the best kind of glue to use for that purpose?"

Only reason I brought it up because of the above quote from @Oscar-HiFi :-D
Touche, I missed that! =:-O
 
Sep 3, 2017 at 10:47 AM Post #7,923 of 8,987
Hi guys I'm doing a little project (nothing fancy) with some egrado headphones and building wood cups to make them into full size headphones, I've read through many articles about the wood cups and their design for the SR series.

What I'm wondering is does anyone here know what will yield me the best results in terms of sound quality, a cup shape that has a larger outer opening or one that has a smaller opening. I have made some quick MS paint diagrams to explain what I mean

Design 1:

116uc6w.jpg



Design 2:

dyask9.jpg


Any help would be appreciated thanks!
 
Sep 3, 2017 at 11:25 AM Post #7,924 of 8,987
Hi guys I'm doing a little project (nothing fancy) with some egrado headphones and building wood cups to make them into full size headphones, I've read through many articles about the wood cups and their design for the SR series.

What I'm wondering is does anyone here know what will yield me the best results in terms of sound quality, a cup shape that has a larger outer opening or one that has a smaller opening. I have made some quick MS paint diagrams to explain what I mean

Design 1:

116uc6w.jpg



Design 2:

dyask9.jpg


Any help would be appreciated thanks!

Something like this?
148f690.png
 
Sep 3, 2017 at 11:34 AM Post #7,925 of 8,987
Something like this?
148f690.png
Mine will most likely be a one piece design split into two because I don't have a lathe to create a one piece seamless cup.

I can see from that diagram that internal chamber is cylindical and the end piece is a narrower opening than the driver piece. This seems like the standard grado design but I've been reading an article on here saying that a flared/cone design with a wider end opening creates a more pleasing sound?

Here is the article I refer too https://www.head-fi.org/threads/grado-sr60i-cup-tuning.601690/
 
Sep 3, 2017 at 11:46 AM Post #7,927 of 8,987
So more like this?
358z69u.png
That's exactly what I mean!.. sort of :)

I'm wondering which design I want to work with. Narrow or wide opening.

Also I see that in the designs you show that both cups get narrower before they open up. Is this to aid sound quality or just to hold the grill mesh?
 
Sep 3, 2017 at 11:53 AM Post #7,928 of 8,987
That's exactly what I mean!.. sort of :)

I'm wondering which design I want to work with. Narrow or wide opening.

Also I see that in the designs you show that both cups get narrower before they open up. Is this to aid sound quality or just to hold the grill mesh?
It's to aid support & finishing of the grill, a lot of people use Staples #27642 for mesh and the edges aren't show ready.
 
Sep 3, 2017 at 11:59 AM Post #7,929 of 8,987
It's to aid support & finishing of the grill, a lot of people use Staples #27642 for mesh and the edges aren't show ready.
Is there a noticeable sound difference between the two cup design you showed me?
 
Sep 3, 2017 at 12:04 PM Post #7,930 of 8,987
i doubt it makes any perceivable difference. Perhaps this is more like what I think, you think, I think, you thought. Perhaps the removal of the triangular sharp edge is the way to go. However finishing the grill edge might require a trim ring of some sort.
2ue5f85.png
 
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Sep 3, 2017 at 12:11 PM Post #7,931 of 8,987
i doubt it makes any perceivable difference. Perhaps this is more like what I think, you think, I think, you thought. Perhaps the removal of the triangular sharp edge is the way to go.
2ue5f85.png
That's there about exactly the design I had in mind. I'll probably roll with this and see how it goes. Thanks for the dimensions!
 
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Sep 3, 2017 at 3:11 PM Post #7,932 of 8,987
I think the depth of the cup from the back of the driver to where the sound exits might also have some impact on the sound. Its what a few were discussing a few weeks ago when putting back the outer cups on the inner cups of SR series. I've noticed that with the various cups that I have the deeper ones seem to have slightly better bass extension but it could also be the style of cups, RS vs GS.
 
Sep 3, 2017 at 5:59 PM Post #7,933 of 8,987
I think the depth of the cup from the back of the driver to where the sound exits might also have some impact on the sound. Its what a few were discussing a few weeks ago when putting back the outer cups on the inner cups of SR series. I've noticed that with the various cups that I have the deeper ones seem to have slightly better bass extension but it could also be the style of cups, RS vs GS.
Yeah I agree with that. There's also a risk of a cup that's too deep sounding 'funneled' as noted in another thread.

I think the sweetspot found in that thread was 1 1/8 inch or 28.5mm inner channel excluding the endpiece.

I am working with 23mm boards of sappele (supposedly similar tonewood to mahogany) so what I'll do is make a 23mm channel and another 23mm cut which I'll halve to form two 11.5mm end pieces.

The cut piece will enevitably be imperfect so I'll put the imperfect side facing out, which I'll them sand to form a nice curve and smooth it off to look good finished.

So my cups will have a depth of 34.5mm when finished. Which is a little less depth than what is shown in the diagram above which comes in at 38.1mm.

I'm ok with that, i'd rather have a slightly less boomy bass or wood coloured sound than risk a funneled sound from a cup too deep.
 
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Sep 6, 2017 at 3:32 AM Post #7,934 of 8,987
I've recently received my generic G-cushions. Look silly huge:
IMG_0880.JPG
Treble taming patches are still there. Proved to be a mod to keep.
The cushions do add much bass indeed. Couldn't expect that, as there is so much foam to leak through. More enstressing didn't hurt:
IMG_0879.JPG
Only 2+2 holes left open on each side. The original dampening material left intact. Bass level approached that of unpatched drivers with L-cushions, with more speed, depth and less distortions (the latter only heard on test tones).
I've probably done my best to approach the frequency balance I prefer.
 

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