[Shoewreck]

@DavidA , please let me know if my assumption was true.

 

[DavidA]

@DavidA , please let me know if my assumption was true.

225e: 7.5-7.8mm (R), 7.4-7-7.7mm (L) , not even all around so I'm going to heat them up and see if I can get a consistent spacing on both

225i: 8.0-8.3mm (R), 8.1-8.3mm (L), will also try to heat them up and try to get a consistent spacing.

When I measured dB levels from each they matched to within 0.2dB so I can't hear any differences.

 

[Shoewreck]

not even all around

I suddently found slanting cups to be a good idea. Tried 6 mm on top, 8 mm on bottom, but 8mm seems better to me.
I'm feeling slightly ashamed of not measuring the depth prior to disassembly. I hope somebody would measure a set of lower end Grados just to find if they're tuned differently. I did readjust SR-80 cups with similar resuts, but it was long ago and no measurements were made back then as well.

 

[DavidA]

I suddently found slanting cups to be a good idea. Tried 6 mm on top, 8 mm on bottom, but 8mm seems better to me.
I'm feeling slightly ashamed of not measuring the depth prior to disassembly. I hope somebody would measure a set of lower end Grados just to find if they're tuned differently. I did readjust SR-80 cups with similar resuts, but it was long ago and no measurements were made back then as well.

What about going 8mm on the back side and 6mm on the front, like how some drivers (HD800/700) are angled so the sound is more into your ears?

 

[Shoewreck]

@DavidA , cushions are symmetrical and gymbals rotate freely, so driver position won't change. You're free to experiment however. Probably pushing the cup further out would result in even better results, just make sure it doesn' fall apart while you're in public.

 

[DavidA]

@DavidA , cushions are symmetrical and gymbals rotate freely, so driver position won't change. You're free to experiment however. Probably pushing the cup further out would result in even better results, just make sure it doesn' fall apart while you're in public.

You are so right, I was thinking of my old SennGrado where I did try to angle the drivers within the cups, LOL.

 

[wavid]

Speaking of SennGrado, my sr60s have been sitting in my drawer for over a year now because I took the headband+cupholders to make SennGrados. Anyone have any easy ideas for a headband+cupholder for Grados?

 

[DavidA]

Speaking of SennGrado, my sr60s have been sitting in my drawer for over a year now because I took the headband+cupholders to make SennGrados. Anyone have any easy ideas for a headband+cupholder for Grados?

You could try one of the alternate drivers from Nhoord, Symphones, or Elleven Acoustica. Might need some work to fit the these drivers or just get the one of the drivers and some wood cups

 

[wavid]

You could try one of the alternate drivers from Nhoord, Symphones, or Elleven Acoustica. Might need some work to fit the these drivers out just get the one of the drivers and some wood cups

Not sure I understand, I need this... (or an alternative)

EDIT:
Just noticed you posted this a few months back. Do the Grado cups fit inside the MDR-7506 cup holders easily?

Quote:

This is what I did to my SR-225e:
Added dynamat in the outer sleeve and felt disk on back of button, dynamat on the back of the driver:

Opened up one extra vent hole on each driver

Since then made removable cables using SMC connectors and MDR-7506 headband and cheap G pads:

Is this the one I would need?

 

[DavidA]

@wavid , sorry I miss understood your question. What you are looking for is the headband, rod blocks and gimbals (what most call them), and yes the MDR-7506 headband replacement will work.

 

[Harry Manback]

Does anyone know where I could get some wiring similiar to what Grado uses in their cables. Their wire (not the cable) is very flexible, and the jacket is very easy to remove. I can't find any wire that is close to it's flexibility. I'd prefer it to be OFC with long crystal grain.

Thanks!

 

[93EXCivic]

What is the best dye to use with the Senn 414 pads? I'd love to dye them red to match with the custom cups I have made.

Also how much differences is there in sound between TTVJ flat pads and quarter modded Senn 414 or S-cush?

 

[Jazmanaut]

When im modding headphones, (what i do a lot!) i go to local music, or electronic store, and choose proper readymade cable, like mini, or normal plug
->RCA or such, and clip connectors from another end, and voila, you got yourself very decent and pro grade cable, with no hussle.

 

[DavidA]

When im modding headphones, (what i do a lot!) i go to local music, or electronic store, and choose proper readymade cable, like mini, or normal plug
->RCA or such, and clip connectors from another end, and voila, you got yourself very decent and pro grade cable, with no hussle.

Great idea, only thing that stops me from doing this is most premade cables don't use decent quality wires and many times they are coated so its a pain to work with.

 

[DavidA]

What is the best dye to use with the Senn 414 pads? I'd love to dye them red to match with the custom cups I have made.

Also how much differences is there in sound between TTVJ flat pads and quarter modded Senn 414 or S-cush?

Not a direct answer to your question but have you tired either L or G pads? For me the S or 414 pads are just too uncomfortable and while the L pads (generic or OEM) are a bit better for comfort they are much better sounding IMO. I like the generic G pads from ebay ($4-6) best for comfort, and they also give a 1-2dB boost to the bass and I find the imaging/sound stage to also be slightly better.