You can also use the dynamat to hold the cups together and it can be removed if you ever want to use hot glue (stock glue) again. I'm one that likes cables that are light and flexible so they don't distract from the enjoyment and also a fan of removable cables so all my builds have SMC jacks so I can change the cables easily. While you can install the SMC jacks in the HF-1 it will require some cutting of the cups so I wouldn't recommend it but for others like my RS2e the jacks fit perfectly in the cable hole so no cutting required.
post your grado mods....
You can also use the dynamat to hold the cups together and it can be removed if you ever want to use hot glue (stock glue) again. I'm one that likes cables that are light and flexible so they don't distract from the enjoyment and also a fan of removable cables so all my builds have SMC jacks so I can change the cables easily. While you can install the SMC jacks in the HF-1 it will require some cutting of the cups so I wouldn't recommend it but for others like my RS2e the jacks fit perfectly in the cable hole so no cutting required.
With the extremely helpful and informative guidance, kind assistance, and wonderful workmanship of @DavidA @fleasbaby @javburg I successfully completed my Nhoord Red v2 build! Many thanks gents!
Well, they sound amazing! I am extremely pleased with the sound thus far and the comfort is out of this world whether fitted with the L or G-Cush pads. I still haven't decided which pad I like best. These headphones are light as a feather.
DRIVERS: Nhoord Red v2
CUPS: Wabi Sabi RS1 Walnuts
DAMPENING MATERIAL: Dynamat
HEADBAND: Sony MDR-7502
HEADBAND CUSHIONS: Sennheiser PX100/200/250
EAR PADS: Various L/G-Cushs
CABLE: Arakawa (Mogami W2893) w/ SMC connectors
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS: Black Electrical Tape; SuperGlue; Black Heat Shrink Tubing
Nhoord Red v2 with Generic L-Cush
Well, they sound amazing! I am extremely pleased with the sound thus far and the comfort is out of this world whether fitted with the L or G-Cush pads. I still haven't decided which pad I like best. These headphones are light as a feather.
DRIVERS: Nhoord Red v2
CUPS: Wabi Sabi RS1 Walnuts
DAMPENING MATERIAL: Dynamat
HEADBAND: Sony MDR-7502
HEADBAND CUSHIONS: Sennheiser PX100/200/250
EAR PADS: Various L/G-Cushs
CABLE: Arakawa (Mogami W2893) w/ SMC connectors
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS: Black Electrical Tape; SuperGlue; Black Heat Shrink Tubing
Nhoord Red v2 with Generic L-Cush
Absolutely beautiful. Tho, only thing from Grados, are earcushions
Talkin about modification!!!
Talkin about modification!!!
And RS1 shaped/styled wood cups!
Arvan
500+ Head-Fier
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I got so tired of the cups sliding around on the shaft so i got these. Depth stops for drill bits on ebay.
@Arvan , one other thing you might want to try is candle wax on the rods, I've had some luck with melting a thin layer of wax on the shaft if its not too loose, seems to work about month or two.
Vicks7
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2005
- Posts
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Hi all. I'd like to send my 10 year old Grado 325s for new cables and maybe a few other mods. Is there anyone in the forums that offers this service?
Thanks
Thanks
I don't "offer" the service but I do have spare Grado wires from a SR225i if you want to keep it closer to original. I've built and installed cables for others but there are a few others out there that also do it. Send me a PM if you want help with doing the cable and mods.
93EXCivic
100+ Head-Fier
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- 101
Just finished these. Dynamat, regrill, custom 3d printed and painted half cups and rod blocks SR60e.
At some point I will come back and recable these
@93EXCivic , nice work
Recently, I went wild and put G Cush pads on my PS500. This coupled with TTVJ Flats on my RS2e encompass my entire portfolio of Grado mods. Watch out, kids, I'm living on the edge now!
Shoewreck
500+ Head-Fier
It's probably the second time I bought a headphone with a strong intention to mod it. I gave my new Alessandro MS-1i a couple days, then I started. My main intention was to get rid of internal reflections while not compromising openness. My first attempt was a piece of slightly felted synthetic wool. I used 0.6 grams of it on each side (the amount is a usual quantiy used in vented speaker enclosures, scaled down to the smaller cups). See how it looks inside:
And outside:
Black wool hides everything inside the cup - nice for looks.
I did not like the tonality of stuffed Grados at all. Bass was OK, but treble went completly wrong. It's hard to explain, it had to become less peaky, it probably did, but everything just got messed up. I have a little theory on this: music just isn't mixed to be listened in an anechoic chamber, our listening rooms produce lots of reflections and obviously sound peaky. Better headphones do replicate that effect (it's sometimes called "glare") and Grados are no exception. Cheaper plastic models are probably just tuned to sound not as good. We can't blame John for that, but we can try to change the sound for better.
The next iteration was simple, I just applied a piece of automotive dampening material to magnet cover, trying not to obstuct vents:
Not sure what it does to the sound, but it won't hurt.
I used a 6mm wide pen clip as a gauge in order to keep the housings even:
This configuration didn't last long. More mods have followed:
Let's see them in detail:
A minimalistic felt lining. Dark magenta is one of my favourite colors.
Vibration dampening material not only adds to weight, but also changes inner shape of the cup to soften possible resonances. The plastic stick behind the driver is a smartphone opener tool. I use it's sides to pry cups open.
These are L-cushion replicas from ebay. The smaller cushion can be fit under the bigger one for softer feel. I like the bowls for more open feeling and tamed bass response.
The above setup lasted for a week until I did the last mod:
Cup depth readjustment. The opener tool is 8mm wide, just 2mm more than the pen clip I used before, but the difference is about as huge as changing pads. Treble coloration is very different now: colder and more neutral. I highly recommend trying such readjustment to everybody. I haven't yet tried 7 or 9 mm clearance, but if you do you will get some interesting results as well.
Finally, I achieved the tonality I like with all the Grado benefits. Please see my new favourite:
BTW, I have also changed the headband assembly: the old SR-80 headband turned out to be slightly better: it has a nicer texture and softer feel.
And outside:
Black wool hides everything inside the cup - nice for looks.
I did not like the tonality of stuffed Grados at all. Bass was OK, but treble went completly wrong. It's hard to explain, it had to become less peaky, it probably did, but everything just got messed up. I have a little theory on this: music just isn't mixed to be listened in an anechoic chamber, our listening rooms produce lots of reflections and obviously sound peaky. Better headphones do replicate that effect (it's sometimes called "glare") and Grados are no exception. Cheaper plastic models are probably just tuned to sound not as good. We can't blame John for that, but we can try to change the sound for better.
The next iteration was simple, I just applied a piece of automotive dampening material to magnet cover, trying not to obstuct vents:
Not sure what it does to the sound, but it won't hurt.
I used a 6mm wide pen clip as a gauge in order to keep the housings even:
This configuration didn't last long. More mods have followed:
Let's see them in detail:
A minimalistic felt lining. Dark magenta is one of my favourite colors.
Vibration dampening material not only adds to weight, but also changes inner shape of the cup to soften possible resonances. The plastic stick behind the driver is a smartphone opener tool. I use it's sides to pry cups open.
These are L-cushion replicas from ebay. The smaller cushion can be fit under the bigger one for softer feel. I like the bowls for more open feeling and tamed bass response.
The above setup lasted for a week until I did the last mod:
Cup depth readjustment. The opener tool is 8mm wide, just 2mm more than the pen clip I used before, but the difference is about as huge as changing pads. Treble coloration is very different now: colder and more neutral. I highly recommend trying such readjustment to everybody. I haven't yet tried 7 or 9 mm clearance, but if you do you will get some interesting results as well.
Finally, I achieved the tonality I like with all the Grado benefits. Please see my new favourite:
BTW, I have also changed the headband assembly: the old SR-80 headband turned out to be slightly better: it has a nicer texture and softer feel.
@Shoewreck , what was the original spacing of the cup depth?
Shoewreck
500+ Head-Fier
@DavidA , did not measure, but 6mm (or 1/4", just a little bit more) seems to be the right guess. I highly recommend to do the measurement before opening any Grado. Still, the optimum depth can be set by ear.
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply, I asked since I want to compare it to my SR225e and SR225i
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