post your grado mods....
Jul 20, 2014 at 7:11 PM Post #5,161 of 8,992
Well if they worked fine with the punch hole mod before then that cant be the issue. The only thing left is soldering.
 
Jul 20, 2014 at 7:30 PM Post #5,162 of 8,992
I would desolder, clean wire and pad, and start again with fresh solder. Could be that soldering over and over again might have damaged the driver though :frowning2:
 
Jul 21, 2014 at 3:16 AM Post #5,164 of 8,992
About recabling the 225s: do you guys think it's ok to do it without desoldering the standard thicker cable? I.E. by simply living a few millimeters of the existing ones and soldering the new ones to them?
 
Incidentally: how would I recable the 225s as they have 4 conductors per channel?
 
Thanks!!
 
Jul 21, 2014 at 7:16 AM Post #5,165 of 8,992
Thanks for the input everyone. @fleasbaby sorry for not following through with the cups, I'm still stuck modding my 225is as you know.
smily_headphones1.gif


Also what would be the best way to clean/remove the solder?

 
Use a solder wick
 

 
Jul 21, 2014 at 7:20 AM Post #5,166 of 8,992
  About recabling the 225s: do you guys think it's ok to do it without desoldering the standard thicker cable? I.E. by simply living a few millimeters of the existing ones and soldering the new ones to them?
 
Incidentally: how would I recable the 225s as they have 4 conductors per channel?
 
Thanks!!

It would be ok kinda... it adds another connection point that can become a failure point...
 
It would be easy peasy! just twist however many conductors together, in this case 2 per polarity and solder them together. Then add a good amount of solder to the pad. Now hold your well twisted together pair over the pad and apply heat with your iron. The solder build up on the pad will will flow onto your twisted pair, allowing you wire to fall through the blob. Remove heat and allow to cool without being disturbed.
 
Easy!
 
Jul 21, 2014 at 9:42 AM Post #5,168 of 8,992
Thanks for the input everyone. @fleasbaby sorry for not following through with the cups, I'm still stuck modding my 225is as you know. :)

Also what would be the best way to clean/remove the solder?


No worries! Good to see you're still having fun! :) I agree with the Taco-man's advice...solder wick is your friend here.
 
Jul 23, 2014 at 11:09 AM Post #5,173 of 8,992
  Little question about Grado button removal on 225s: do I have to open the cans before using the hairdryer or can i just do it from the "outside" of the grill without damaging the driver?
 
Thanks!

 
You will need to open them first. DON'T blow hot air directly into the earcups!!
 
Once you have the rear section of the earcup off, I find that pouring boiling water onto the metal grill from the inside works well, as it washes away some of the glue residue as well.
 
Jul 23, 2014 at 11:15 AM Post #5,175 of 8,992
To clarify:
 
It's safe to use the 'hairdryer method' to separate the plastic earups, but only if you direct the hot hair along the side edge of the earcups, and NOT directly at the front or rear of the driver.
 
It's best to keep moving the hot air along the edge of the earcup, to distribute the heat evenly, and only use the heat a little at a time so you don't get the driver itself too hot.
 
Once separated, you can use a number of techniques to remove the plastic button, without risk of damaging the driver.
 

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