[bluemonkeyflyer]

Keith,

After being able to finally afford the RS1i and the PS-500 as well as having owned the GS-1000 and many of the other models, I don't think that the Turbulent Labs "X" driver really comes close to sounding like any real Grado driver in particular. I've owned previous generations of Magnum drivers (v. 3.5 and v. 4) which is why I've had a wanted ad in the F/S forum looking for a pair of drivers from that era. I wanted to run them through a test to be able to see, and hear, what it was that I so gloriously loved a few years back. To me, they sounded above what the SR-225i could produce, yet I'm not sure if I'd rank the refinement of the Magnum driver up where the RS1i sits.

The Magnum really works hard at trying to do a stellar job at giving us a lot at each frequency point, but then there are times when I feel that such an approach by a driver kind of overshoots our goals. With that said, I'm almost convinced that the RS1i really does a lot of things right. It's polite when it has to be, but then it can really shine when vocal depth, string instruments or percussion get called upon. The PS-500 has been labeled the "little brother" to the PS-1000. But, I think the PS-500 might try a bit hard, too. I feel that it is an agressive driver and there are times when I can feel that the sound being produced is a bit thick. I don't notice this in the RS1i. I'm curious, though, and would love to hear the PS-1000 next to my PS-500 to see how they really compare. I didn't properly put my PS-500 through the necessary paces to compare it to the Magnum X. but feel that there "may" be some similarities - when I go from memory on sound capability of each driver. The PS-500, to me, sounds like an overachiever just like the Magnum X.

With my PS-500, I use them with the G-Cush as the PS-500 has a very good amount of bass and being that the G-Cush can negate some of the bass in your typical Grado headphone, the PS-500 does well with those pads since it has a bit of bass to spare. I'm not as fond of the PS-500 with the L-Cush, TTVJ Flats or the Sennheiser HD-414 pads when used in the reverse quarter modification scenario.

Thanks, Wayne. I am very impressed with PS-1000. It has the bass texture and treble details I love without sounding muddy or aggressive. Mids sound just right, too. I must say that I was pleasantly shocked to hear such euphony from a dynamic (Grado) driver, particularly after being underwhelmed by SR-80. Do you (and anyone else) hear much difference between the GS and PS versions? How about the 325 compared with the Turbulent X driver?
 
So, maybe I am hoping for the improbable with regard to the Turbulent X driver. I may still buy a set for experiments.

 

[austonia]

.

 

[wje]

  Thanks, Wayne. I am very impressed with PS-1000. It has the bass texture and treble details I love without sounding muddy or aggressive. Mids sound just right, too. I must say that I was pleasantly shocked to hear such euphony from a dynamic (Grado) driver, particularly after being underwhelmed by SR-80. Do you (and anyone else) hear much difference between the GS and PS versions? How about the 325 compared with the Turbulent X driver?
 
So, maybe I am hoping for the improbable with regard to the Turbulent X driver. I may still buy a set for experiments.

 
Keith, It's been a while since I've had a pair of 325 Grado drivers in my possession.  I guess the 325 and I got off on the wrong foot, so to speak.  To me, the aluminum cups were heavy and didn't do a lot to benefit the sound.  Keep in mind, though, I had the gold anniversary addition of the 325 and not the new 325is version.  I did use drivers from a pair of 325 Grados in a pair of wooden cups, though, and in that case, I liked the performance.  However, if one combs through these threads a bit to see where a lot of Grado details were discovered and discussed, one will see at one point that it was pretty much noted that Grado potentially used the same drivers for everything from the 325 and down.  How true that actually is, I can't say.  But, I'd suggest for anyone who wanted to get their feet wet with Grados again, go for the SR-60 and take it up from there.  They can be found for $50 to $60 here on the forum.  That will provide one with the head band, gimbals, etc. so that if you opt to move to a wooden Grado cup, you can use the SR-60 drivers in there until you decide on your next move (Magnum drivers?).  This allows one to get started and move up from there.  I don't necessarily direct this advice to you, Keith, since you've had your rounds with the Grados.
 
If you ever get a chance, listen to the PS-500 with the larger G-Cush pads.  Chances are, it might really take the experience within a few points of where the PS-1000 lands.  Plus, you'll have a bit less weight on your ears with the lighter PS-500.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

   
Keith, It's been a while since I've had a pair of 325 Grado drivers in my possession.  I guess the 325 and I got off on the wrong foot, so to speak.  To me, the aluminum cups were heavy and didn't do a lot to benefit the sound.  Keep in mind, though, I had the gold anniversary addition of the 325 and not the new 325is version.  I did use drivers from a pair of 325 Grados in a pair of wooden cups, though, and in that case, I liked the performance.  However, if one combs through these threads a bit to see where a lot of Grado details were discovered and discussed, one will see at one point that it was pretty much noted that Grado potentially used the same drivers for everything from the 325 and down.  How true that actually is, I can't say.  But, I'd suggest for anyone who wanted to get their feet wet with Grados again, go for the SR-60 and take it up from there.  They can be found for $50 to $60 here on the forum.  That will provide one with the head band, gimbals, etc. so that if you opt to move to a wooden Grado cup, you can use the SR-60 drivers in there until you decide on your next move (Magnum drivers?).  This allows one to get started and move up from there.  I don't necessarily direct this advice to you, Keith, since you've had your rounds with the Grados.
 
If you ever get a chance, listen to the PS-500 with the larger G-Cush pads.  Chances are, it might really take the experience within a few points of where the PS-1000 lands.  Plus, you'll have a bit less weight on your ears with the lighter PS-500.

 
Wayne,
 
Thanks for this additional advice. BTW, I saw on the For Sale thread an old post about a modified woodie that you made...Beautiful! It had a black grill on the rears. Do you know where I can find the metal mesh like that used by Grado...both steel and black in color?

 

[Levictus]

Go to an office supply store, wire mesh paper trays etc are great for cup screens.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Go to an office supply store, wire mesh paper trays etc are great for cup screens.

 
Thank you!

 

[JoeDoe]

Alright Grado-ers I need help!
 
I was installing 7keys ebony cups on my 225s earlier this evening and I've run into a problem. Upon de-soldering the wires from the right driver, the pale colored plate onto which they're mounted lifted just a little just before the solder released the wires. I say that because after resoldering them back to the plate, I suddenly have no sound! (Yes, I have the conductors on the correct sides and there's plenty of contact space.)
 
Any thoughts? Surely I haven't done anything un-fixable!?

 

[hemipowered007]

Uh oh.....

 

[GermanGuy]

  Alright Grado-ers I need help!
 
I was installing 7keys ebony cups on my 225s earlier this evening and I've run into a problem. Upon de-soldering the wires from the right driver, the pale colored plate onto which they're mounted lifted just a little just before the solder released the wires. I say that because after resoldering them back to the plate, I suddenly have no sound! (Yes, I have the conductors on the correct sides and there's plenty of contact space.)
 
Any thoughts? Surely I haven't done anything un-fixable!?

Houston, we have a problem!
 
on the pale colored plate two VERY fine wires are connected, this are the two wires of and going to the driver coil. they go through this small slit on the side covered with the same material.
 
here the micro surgery begins, so if you don´t have a magnifier glasss or really good eyes, think of reassembling the standard grado and send them to grado, they will service the hole sr225i including repairing the driver.
 

                      ^^^
            wires to the driver coil

 

[JoeDoe]

Many thanks GermanGuy. I already liberated the drivers, so sending em back to Grado is out of the question. Its hard to tell by your picture what the wires look like. Would you mind PMing me with some more details? Would love to not waste a pair of 225s...

 

[White Lotus]

 

 

 

 

 
Alessandro MS1i.
Cups: Cocobolo wood (Soloz Audio)
Grills: Metal (Soloz Audio)
Headband: (Stock I think? Please verify)
Pads: HD414, used fabric dye to make them black.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I had a set of DT990 600 ohm drivers that needed repairing. I had to use my 10X magnification headset to see the ultra tiny wires from the coil. They are enamel insulated and exit a tiny aperture from the rim of the driver to the solder tabs on the plate used for the cable wire connections. The plates are glued in place. Soldering and/or de-soldering these wires is tedious and next to impossible for me. Removing the enamel on such tiny wires with heat just melts them and scraping with an X-acto knife did not work, either. The adhesive holding the plates to the side of the drivers tends to loosen and come off from the soldering iron's heat and the tiny coil wires can break or melt off very fast. I was not able to make a good solder connection so I opened the driver on the opposite side from the coil wires' exit aperture. Upon inspection with 10X magnification, I was able to see that one of the coil wires had broken inside and under the driver diaphragm. I have no idea how this happened but that's the way it came to me from the previous owner.
 
I bought new drivers from Beyerdynamic. One of two had a blown diaphragm but Beyerdynamic replaced it. The replacement driver was not properly centered so they sent me another. I appreciate Beyerdynamic selling drivers and standing behind their products, with friendly customer service by Rich Konowal.
 
As for Grado, I contacted customer service about buying some replacement drivers. I was told they do not sell parts but will service headphones for $200.00. It's too bad Grado won't sell replacement parts like Beyerdynamic.
 
If you try, again, to re-solder the driver coil wires, get a 10X magnification headset from Amazon - I bought one for $20: LED Headband Magnifier model number: MG81007-A. A magnifier is a big help for these kind of jobs. Also, be sure to use a heat sink, like an alligator clip, between the plate's solder tabs and the connection point for the driver coil wire.
 
If you solve the enamel insulation removal problem, please post how you did it.
 
Good luck!
 
Quote:

  Houston, we have a problem!
 
on the pale colored plate two VERY fine wires are connected, this are the two wires of and going to the driver coil. they go through this small slit on the side covered with the same material.
 
here the micro surgery begins, so if you don´t have a magnifier glasss or really good eyes, think of reassembling the standard grado and send them to grado, they will service the hole sr225i including repairing the driver.
 

                      ^^^
            wires to the driver coil

 

[GermanGuy]

  Many thanks GermanGuy. I already liberated the drivers, so sending em back to Grado is out of the question. Its hard to tell by your picture what the wires look like. Would you mind PMing me with some more details? Would love to not waste a pair of 225s...

 
Will try my best. i have a similar damaged sr125i driver at home to take some pictures.
 
but nevertheless grado accepts the headphone in any condition as long as it looks  like a grado headphone. after damaging my driver the support sent me an email to rebuild the headphone, because then the whole service to get a completly repaired headphone back is just USD $30 !
 
in fact their policy is not selling or exchanging any parts but beeing very cheap and repairing everything!
 
EDIT:
 
found another picture that shows the thin wires, so you maybe can have a look at this thread or just google "grado broken driver":
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/423929/broken-grado-125i-headphones-voice-coil-fix-help
 
you can see the coil wires here:
 

 

[wje]

German Guy, Nice!  Here's another, but in a bit more detail to see the various pictures on going about access the wires that run to the voice coil.  The link takes you to the actual post.  I think I'm motivated to fix my Magnum v 3.5 driver which has a similar issue - but, different circumstances.  The person who installed the drivers into the wooden cups, used a product like super glue.  I didn't hurt the cups getting the drivers out, but I did yank off the solder tab pad and the voice coil wires.  Nobody has responded to my request for v.3.5 or V.4 Magnum drivers as I don't want to buy another pair of Magnum X drivers at this point.
 

 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/547127/update-5-7-project-log-disassembling-the-grado-rs1-modding-and-thunderpants-mod-with-pics/75#post_7403799
 
 
If I have time, and make progress with my v. 3.5 drivers this evening, I'll be sure to provide updates and be in contact with Joe.  I don't think the ideal step is to fully take out the voice coil windings.  But, to hopefully reach the leads which might be nested by the edge of the driver itself.  But, as Keith pointed out, the wires most likely will be treated with a chemical to insulate the wires and one would have to clean the gunk off in order to solder a new small wire to it.

 

[JoeDoe]

Many thanks Wayne. Looks like I'll be doing some reading this evening...