So I finally got cracking on my SR80s. The cups were a little more difficult to pry off (I dented the mesh in doing so), and I had to drill bigger holes for the cable entry (more on that later), but the gains in SQ is all I cared.
This is what I did ....
1) I pried them apart, and ripped the cables out.
2) I vented half the holes in the back.
3) I damped the back of the driver with dynamat and silverstone acoustic foam.
Coincidentally, the back of the driver is the same size as a penny, so you can trace the materials with a penny and get the exact right size to use.
4) Next, I lined the side of the cups with silverstone acoustic foam to cut down on the echo around the SR80.
5) I placed a 2.5mm mono plug in the cable entry area, then hooked up the driver to the plug. The patch on the left side of the driver (blue cable) is the ground, and the right side of the driver (red or white cable) is the channel. I cut out strips of wire from the stock cable for the hookup wire, as I am still waiting for the bare wires to come in for a recable. I also attached 2.5mm mono male jacks to the end of the now cut grado stock cables. The stock cables aren't that bad, looks like 28awg or so stranded copper wires.
6) I then drilled the cable entry hole on the back cups (the side with the mesh) to a larger size so that I can fit the mono plugs in. This was a messy job, and scratched the cups up pretty good. I am probably going to get some varnish to clean up the mess.
7) I then cut out a piece of dynamat the size of a front driver, and punched holes in it that matches the holes in the grado driver. The way I did it was the way Markl did it for the D5Ks.
I bought a hole punching kit:
I traced a piece of paper on the front of the drivers and created a profile of the holes
I then placed the paper on a piece of dynamat, and used a pencil to poke holes in the dynamat according the the profile of the grado drivers
I cut out the dynamat, then used the right hole punch for the different sized holes. The result is this.
I then placed the dynamt on the front of the driver, and placed a ring of acoustic silverfoam on top of it.
8) Finally, placed the reversed sennheiser 414 foam pads on, plug the drivers it, and the mods are completed.
The entire process, including the planning and such, took me about 2.5 hours (I am slow, I guess most people can do it in about 1 to 1.5 hours).
How does it sound?
The sound is much much better than SR80 stock. While I see the appeal of the stock cans, there is an echoey sound to it, and what sounds like resonance. Also, it's a very sibilant headphone, and the highs are shrill and fatiguing. It's a fun headphone, but I can't wear it for more than an hour listening to music.
Obviously, I cannot A/B the mods, but I took a set of songs to test them out before and after mods, the songs I used are:
1) Michael Jackson - Billie Jean
2) Kid Rock - Bawitdaba
3) John Lennon - Woman
4) Mum - Weeping Rock Rock
5) The Smashing Pumpkins - Cherub Rock
The major differences are:
1) A much faster headphone, the echo is pretty much gone, or at least significantly reduced
2) Tighter, clearer bass. I was surprised at how much bass the SR80 has, given its reputation. The modded phones have about the same quantity of bass, but it sounds cleaner, much less muddy.
3) Tamed highs. Some people may love the shrill highs of the SR80s, but not me. It's just way too much for me. After the mods, the headphones sound more refined, with the highs still present, but with much better quantity.
4) The mids are more prominent. I felt like the mids have about the same amounts, but because of the lower amount of highs, and the tighter bass, the mids sound mush more prominent now.
5) Larger soundstage - maybe it's a product of the cleaner sound, but the sound seems to come from a wider area.
6) Slightly tougher to drive. This headphone needs a little more power to drive. While I can still use the iPod directly to drive it, it benefits more with amping than before.
Overall, I am very happy with the mods, and I am now looking to get some wooden cups from a head-fi member to compare against my mods. The looks could be improved, especially with the drilling of the cable holes and the dented mesh, but the sound is all I am after.
EDIT: I use a G4 iPod and an ALO Rx MKII to drive these, and I compared them with my modded Fostex T50-RP, Westone 3s, and UE Triple.fis later on.
The modded Grados are not as nice as the Fostex T50-RPs, not as clean, with a much more V-Shaped sound. The mids are just no where close the Fostexs.
It does not sound as refined as the W3s, but is funner to listen to for rock and hiphop. Does not have the same amount of detail though.
It sounds better than the UE TF10 in general. While the UE TF10s are an excellent set of phones, especially for its going price now, I would rank it last amongst my 5 phones (I have two sets of modded Fostexes, which sounds slightly different).