Orthodynamic Roundup

[Hutnicks]

 
Oh now this looks interesting. The offset countersinking leads me to believe that some smart cookie was actually concerned about the airflow. What do the high frequencies sound like on these puppies?
 

 

[Armaegis]

Is that caulking compound? Looks like an overstuffed oreo... 

 

[roBernd]

So it turns out I sniped the anisotropic version of the HP-1. (Thanks for the explanation) But apparently I can't apply my knowledge from dampening the HP-50 onto these babies.
 
Stock, they extend deep but lack a decent upper bass bump and their mids are a tad aggressive. Plus, instruments like violins lack sparkle.
 
These will take some work to sound decent...

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

These will take some work to sound decent...

 
try this
 
1. remove all stock damping
2. place a small plug of memory foam in the center of the armature bracket. 
3. the next 3 layers need to be teased to make a snug fit for the driver  - all discs that fit on top of one another in the cup
    3.1 foam ( very thin ) 
    3.2 thin but dense felt that covers side vents
    3.3 2mm creatology foam disc cut to fit he screw holes. 
4. seal the driver to the front baffle with a thin ring of ..... blutak, speaker gasket etc 
 
align and carefully assemble - it will feel like you are trying to squeeze too much into the cup but screw down in cross over fashion to ensure even closure and once it is closed be prepared to pick your jaw off the floor. 
 
..dB

 

[nick n]

Quote:

Thats what it looks like: http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/18525#post_8015051 and its on wikiphonia too.
There seem to be two variants of the driver: http://www.head-fi.org/t/202122/the-headphone-driver-pics-thread/225#post_8380871

As for the size, its the same size as the one in Telefunken TH700, PMB80, PMB-100 etc.
I dont have a pair in front of me, but I vaguely recall it was around 55mm diameter, maybe someone can confirm. This is of course not including the metal clamp/clips on the driver edges.

Fantastic thanks.
Thing is I put them back together without measuring. And after a bit of a modding fiasco I don't want to bother opening these again for a while. Only reason would be to see what the effect is by not blocking the push tab access holes on the baffle side, it might provide some venting there.
This driver is the top variant, and that countersinking Hutnicks was commenting on is a metal plate that is easily removable to concentrate the magnetic field a bit.
 
Oh and the highs on these no problemo at least with this mod. I seem to have nailed it after thinking before doing. Bass equally so, Surprising actually.
Managed to keep the open aspect to the sound also.

^ Yes that is some crud there inside a hole.
These had the worst decayed foam i have ever seen in anything so far, same as what MDR30 had...(  think it was MDR ) Looked like there was one disc against the rear mesh then one on the driver seemed a bit different size and colour. Anyhow there was basically nothing left of either and they had gummed up the rear screening and driver rears as well as getting into the holes a bit. Managed to clean all of it out/wash out the mesh.
 
I know I am probably preaching to the converted here, but don't think you can get away without modding and a fair bit of careful scary work to clean a set of these up. Given the track record,so far anyways, they are a mess to deal with a real PIA with the decayed/ gummed-on /sticky/crumbled foam, yes it gets on the diaphragm also.
 
Drivers are held together with three tabs as seen in the other pics links.
 

^ so an exploded view of the parts.
 

1. I put some of the thin Creatology adhesive felt on the back cross-member to help with reflections.
2. Driver held in place with Newplast in same way as the picture a few posts back
3. Arctic Cotton material directly damping driver, held in place with very thin white foam disc ( good old standbys the Arctic Cotton and Bamboo materials.
   
   Love what they can do in the right configuration)
4. NOT SHOWN is the disc of black Creatology regular felt placed covering the cup rears against the mesh to hide the insides and also add some extra absorbing ability/damping
5. That funny HOK80 type retaining ring sits with the leg points against the baffle around the driver edge, and the top of that ring seats against the cup rears, I guess to hold the mesh backing solidly in place. That was nice because it provided an very easy slight cavity for the driver damping  to sit in.
6. Sealed up the baffle holes , basically where the 4 push tabs are ---these use no screws--- with a double sided tape donut and pressed on the stock dust-guards again.
7. Shipped to me without any pads at all. Installed new FA-003 pads from NoisyMotel place I received from a friend in here during the course of material swaps.( thanks for those! ) Look close enough to the stock ones seen in the original catalog listings.
8. Lastly I did Deoxit the plug repeatedly

 
Was sort of confusing at first until i realized i was trying to press these back together-  but they were 90 degrees off

.  Some holes aligned but didn't want to stay put. ( oh the frustration ) Once I realized my stupidity was very easy to press back together, just don't forget to put the headband arms into the cup side slots before you do.
Very airy, really decent highs and bass is incredibly detailed ( and more than sufficient ) with very great separation and in fact the whole presentation is great.
 
Might try to open up those 4 press tab baffle holes see what happens later on, and most likely will bypass the inline volume control, maybe leaving it looking stock in place still. Really cool there are two tiny wheels that seem to spin along while rolling upwards in their right and left slots.
 
 I didn't realize how INsensitive these were =
 90 db

  isn't that the same as the old ID1's?
All said and done on the near maxed out portable setup for testing outside at night.( that C&C BH is sure a capable little amp )

 
One thing I just noticed is that either the holes on my magnets are larger, or the steel plate holes are smaller, compared the the first variant MDR posted in the driver pics thread...Unless the backside holes look bigger? ( one with the pin there) maybe I need more sleep.
 
And something else of interest. The first picture here is as the cans came to me upon first removal of the dust-guards, pretty sure I centered up the drivers properly in the modding, which is fine because they rest on 3 or 4 tiny raised bits so the extra ring of driver holes gets to breathe slightly. Otherwise it would be pressed against the baffle opening and obscure them.
When I first noticed this and that the drivers seemed hovering a bit inwards from the baffle side view I was confused and thought something was wrong with them
However in using the double sided tape donut to seal up the baffle face, I did purposely tape over that ring of extra round little baffle vents, so all the force from the outer driver holes gets channelled through the main earside opening instead. Maybe this is why the bass is fantastic, I was expecting them to be a fight in that aspect.

 

[Hutnicks]

Quote:

Fantastic thanks.
Thing is I put them back together without measuring. And after a bit of a modding fiasco I don't want to bother opening these again for a while. Only reason would be to see what the effect is by not blocking the push tab access holes on the baffle side, it might provide some venting there.
This driver is the top variant, and that countersinking Hutnicks was commenting on is a metal plate that is easily removable to concentrate the magnetic field a bit.
 

Sound of rusty gears clunking into mesh here. Metal plate, I'm betting those countersunk holes are not there for decoration. Has anyone ever tried using a home built metal plate countersunk or chamfered on any other driver as a mod?

 

[nick n]

hmm interesting idea.
assuming one doesn't need to start the tapering right at the diaphragm, but only one way to find out.  Any volunteers? Someone with a test that can check before and after effects.

 

[Hutnicks]

Quote:

hmm interesting idea.
assuming one doesn't need to start the tapering right at the diaphragm, but only one way to find out.  Any volunteers? Someone with a test that can check before and after effects.

I'm scratching around for a chunk of 1/16" or 1/8" iron plate. So far I got nuthin.

 
I need to pull the Yamahas apart some time soon so it would be a perfect time to give it a try.

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

 
try this
 
1. remove all stock damping
2. place a small plug of memory foam in the center of the armature bracket. 
3. the next 3 layers need to be teased to make a snug fit for the driver  - all discs that fit on top of one another in the cup
    3.1 foam ( very thin ) 
    3.2 thin but dense felt that covers side vents
    3.3 2mm creatology foam disc cut to fit he screw holes. 
4. seal the driver to the front baffle with a thin ring of ..... blutak, speaker gasket etc 
 
align and carefully assemble - it will feel like you are trying to squeeze too much into the cup but screw down in cross over fashion to ensure even closure and once it is closed be prepared to pick your jaw off the floor. 
 
..dB

What do you mean by the armature bracket?
And for #3, is it by order of closest to driver, or by what to first put in the cup.
3.2 sounds like it wraps around the rest of the damping...
 
Or picture would be pretty nice too >_<

 

[nick n]

I decided to bypass the inline volume control for those Dual posted above. Never again I tell you, This was worse then the absolute worst enameled wires ever for soldering up. There is a very thin coating on the wires as per normal but I mean thin, thinnest ever seen, which was hard to strip off, and the wires themselves seem like some stranded but highly tensile memory wire, near impossible to bend at all, and to hold normal rosin core solder =no way .
Like an idiot of course i didn't do the obvious and melt off the existing wire tips from their slider connection tabs but decided hey I'll simply snip em and good to go. Aaargh
 Luckily there was some tiny blobs of the stock solder on the volume control slider tabs I carefully extracted or I would be looking at dragging out the silver conductive epoxy and somehow holding those uncooperative wires in place while they set up.
Maddening.  Won't even mention how many tries it took to get this done.
At any rate the inline volume housing is still in place so it still looks stock, but I removed one obvious variable in any future issues.
 
Also the portable setup is not bad if the volume is kept lower, but this needs serious power to show it's capabilities because it is so caveman-era ( no disrespect to cavemen ) insensitive.
( that C&C BH amp is 600mw total max output)
It absolutely has to be used on the integrated amp at higher than norm levels.
 
May need to get back in and deal with some driver stuff, might be some crud from the crumbled foam still . hope not.

 

[xiphmont]

Back in the day, one of the audio/stereo mail-order houses sold a dynamic headphone that used the 'zact same headset but without the wondrous pumpkin/olive color scheme. It was called a Transducer Research TR5000H.

Wualta--- I saw a pair of those Transducer Research TR-5000Hs recently on eBay and grabbed them because I just had to see how they fit dynamic drivers in.... and to my 'disappointment', this pair is ortho just like the ATH-2. The driver is visually identical.

They're also pumpkin/olive--- more than one run?

 

[Kabeer]

Quote:

Wualta--- I saw a pair of those Transducer Research TR-5000Hs recently on eBay and grabbed them because I just had to see how they fit dynamic drivers in.... and to my 'disappointment', this pair is ortho just like the ATH-2. The driver is visually identical.

They're also pumpkin/olive--- more than one run?

Ooh, pics?

 

[xiphmont]

They're indistinguishable from an ATH2 inside and out except for the text on the headband. Even the cord reads 'AudioTechnica'.

 

[GREQ]

.

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

What do you mean by the armature bracket?
And for #3, is it by order of closest to driver, or by what to first put in the cup.
3.2 sounds like it wraps around the rest of the damping...
 
Or picture would be pretty nice too >_<

pictures are worth a thousand words. Luckily our pal Sachu has been buying up the last few YH/HP1's and this pair was pristine ( best condition I have seen yet ) 
 


 
#1 - spare bit of foam or anything that flattens which will damp the pivot joint. 
 

 
#2 - fairly dense felt cut to about the same size as the opening, when pressed down it should overlap the sides and damp the vents 
 

 
#3 - creatology foam cut to fit the inner aspect , press fit into the cup 
 

 
#4 - gasket "stuff" blu tak, bitumen etc , whatever you want to use to seal the driver to the front baffle, roll it into a long snake and press fit the driver into position. 
 



Make sure the driver is aligned so that the tabs do not catch on the lower screws and so that the strain relief is aligned correctly. 
 
Finally close it up - I start with the screws at the wire entry and then go to the opposite side - there will be a small gap 
 

 
the gap should be no more than this - it is a firm press fit to close, and it will close smoothly and completely. 
 
 
 
This mod will not be for everyone but it is the best performance I have ever had out of a YH1 / HP1 - as good as a well modded YH100 ( which is a bear to mod correctly ) 
 
 
hope that is clearer now than before. 
 
..dB