vid
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2005
- Posts
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- 130
Wualta puts it well.
So is your perception of a sound wave via the ear an abstraction of reality, a model.
I like to have two similar headphones, before I start any kind of modding: it is a similar aproach to the statement of vid, because the aim of keeping control of the changes you made is really important to avoid going round in circles. The development of a satisfying damping strategy with the hp-1 would have been impossible without this method - and I like the real thing (frozen to the last stage of modding) even more than a measurement.
Because I am deliberately limiting how far down the rabbit hole I go. It's like when I start playing with amp designs on paper and slap something together on a breadboard, I start wondering about etching my own boards but then stop and tell myself... "no, this way lies madness".
Hey Nick, with the T10 when I still had it I was quite happy with the stock sound, but did fiddle with a very simple arrangement. A piece of your fuzzy velour cut in a circle to fit in the recess behind the driver, held down with a piece of micropore tape across the entire opening. Actually I think I liked it with just the tape. Cleaning the diaphragm is a good idea too.
Only reason I will do the measurements with the tiny mic is to make sure the channels are balanced right to left. That and to see generally if my impressions correspond roughly with the FR curve.
I do have a slight issue with the left side the odd time bneeding to get volume cranked for it to engage but then it's fine. I should clean it though. Did your set not have the stock yellow rockwooly disc there at the rear of the driver? If so you put the velour junkafter or before that?
The way they are damped now is just barely enough I find, closer to stock with a tiny boost overall I would say.
what the ATH-2100???
VID can you upload those directly to this thread in case the links you provided fade away. puhleeeeze.nevermind I got it.
Nice write-up FuglyPhones. I would like to add that you released out only half of the beast that TDS-7 hides inside this clumsy looking body. As already told TDS-7 are driven a lot better by speaker amplifiers, that are intended for 8 Ohm load. Remember that there are few other modifications to take them step above. And that is open back structure (some guys have cut out a window in the back of the cup and panel attached to headband and then installed some grill for the looks). Second is to get rid of wool inside the driver. Take a look at the picture above, there are wool peaces in top and bottom openings in driver frame. After removing them you will get double effective driver surface area. According to modders reviews this action improves bass and treble extension. Also with open back design damping must be a thin wool like layer with small center hole at the back, or experimenting with something similar. Changing old cord for a good quality OFC one is also a plus. The only questionable mod is earpads. Many people experimented with very different sizes, forms and materials with different results.
Take this with a pinch of salt. This is only theoretical knowledge gathered in russian forums.