[Dyaems]

Quote:

Sounds alright to me. I can include some of that thickish pleather, too, if you're interested. Send me a PM with your shipping address and I'll send a care package your way. I know there's other stuff around here somewhere that you could use, just gotta figure out what exactly.
 

 
Thanks. Will do send you a PM shortly. If you can throw some damping materials that would also be great since getting damping materials here is a PITA go get. Most things needs to be ordered online where the shipping is more expensive than the items itself.

 

[TiEx]

Hello ortho lovers. Few months ago I was talking about getting and modding old soviet copy of Yamaha YH-1 the Elektronica TDS-5m. Now that I have them and also finished with a decent source and amplifier it is time to give these orthos a treat like they deserve. The driver is made by Peerless Mikrofonbau very similar to the one in PMB100 model. Condition of driver itself is excellent. And also you can see natural leather custom pads. For the moment I have braided SPC cable and dressed in a nice sleeve. Need to think of a good damping scheme to get a good deep linear bass response and save this wonderful midrange and just the way I like a little bit recessed highs. Here are some macro photos, enjoy!
 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

[leeperry]

Looks good, I'll soon have a TD5m heading my way as well. Oh, the L/R indications on the cups sides are written in russian, dang...gonna have to learn how to read that cyrillic alphabet after all ^^
 
I plan on recabling them with either an HD600 cable or this one: http://www.head-fi.org/t/620615/he-series-silver-cable-hifiman
 
The nice thing about the HD600's is that it's 10ft, cosmetically identical to the stock yamie cable(no garden hose kthx) and apparently pretty good sounding: http://stefanaudioart.com/Equinox%20HEADPHONE%20Cable%20Tips%20.html
 
Did you sew those earpads yourself?
 
Did you ever compare the HP/YH1 and TD5m by any chance?

 

[TiEx]

Sorry, the only thing I have to compare with are modded KSC75. Those earpads are made custom by one guy, not by me. As for indications, you can always ask me, russian is my native language.
 
 

Later on will show some photos of my DIY cable. The wire I used is Alpha/Belden SPC 28AWG.

 

[MDR30]

edit.

 

[MDR30]

Quote:

I plan on recabling them with either an HD600 cable or this one: http://www.head-fi.org/t/620615/he-series-silver-cable-hifiman
 
The nice thing about the HD600's is that it's 10ft, cosmetically identical to the stock yamie cable(no garden hose kthx) and apparently pretty good sounding: http://stefanaudioart.com/Equinox%20HEADPHONE%20Cable%20Tips%20.html
 

 
Remember modern cables with enamelled strands (Sennheiser) are very difficult to solder. You need a blowtorch, skill and luck. If the solder joint is not perfect, you loose quality. I've tried it on a few occasions and succeeded about two times out of three. It's much easier with plastic isolated copper.
 

 

[leeperry]

Quote:

 
Very useful, spasibo!
 
Quote:

modern cables with enamelled strands (Sennheiser) are very difficult to solder.

 
Thanks for the advice, but I'm quite used to recabling so I'll get it to work.
 
I was stunned by the SQ improvement on a HP-1 when only reterminating its plug w/ a well built gold plated 1/4" jack, so I can only imagine what's gonna happen when I will also replace those copper wires that have been oxidizing for the past +35 years. The wires of that HP1 were so tarnished that they almost looked black, this can't be good for electrical conductivity 

 

[roBernd]

I was puzzled when I saw this small-ish unbuffered-letter atached to my door just now... turns out the mailman left it there without bothering to ring... so it was resting in the burning sun (33°C).
 
By typing "it"I meant the HP-3 I sniped last week.
So far they sound more U-shaped than my HP-50a and pack quite a bit of punch... but they are still quite "hot" (physically) from lying in the sun so this might mess with the sound-signature.
The cable looks beat and the plug is so worn out, it feels like throwing a hotdog down a hallway. Had to wiggle the plug a bit to recieve sound after it slid in way too easy. The drivers sound alright, didn't open them yet to look at the dampening-material...
 
For now I'll let them cool down and try this new jogging-app before I take a closer look at them.
Brb, gotta go fast

Spoiler: Warning%3A%20Spoiler!

SHAZBOT!

 

[gurubhai]

I hadn't noticed earlier but the driver of my TDS-5M is different from pics posted by TiEx/Wualta. This one looks more like the tds-16 with a similar centre tab & hole pattern. The tds-16 outer tab has a triangular lip which isn't there though.
I'll post some pics later.

 

[wualta]

And my drivers are different from TiEx's. His look like they have metal plates installed. That, or the magnets have been painted or coated.
 
Interesting.

 

[Goras]

 TiEx drivers looks exactly the same as TDS-5 (not 5M) drivers, and I had 3 pairs of them. Never had 5M in hand. It is possible that they put old drivers in new frame in that particular unit...

 

[FCO2013]

Quick question, and sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, but is there such a thing as "cheap" orthodynamics? Because most of the time all the orthdynamics are high end and upwards of one grand (HE-6, LCD2, etc.) I'm really interested in seeing the difference between a dynamic driver headphone and an ortho.

 

[vid]

Quote:

Quick question, and sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, but is there such a thing as "cheap" orthodynamics? Because most of the time all the orthdynamics are high end and upwards of one grand (HE-6, LCD2, etc.) I'm really interested in seeing the difference between a dynamic driver headphone and an ortho.

 
Sure. My HOK 80-1 cost 15 euros (a bit too much) and the Yamaha HP-50S was 14 e. Just shop around for vintage orthos that have a good rep (a list can be found at Wikiphonia) and eventually you'll find one for cheap.
 
If you're in the US, you can also look for the Fostex T50RP that's currently in production.

 

[FCO2013]

Quote:

 
Sure. My HOK 80-1 cost 15 euros (a bit too much) and the Yamaha HP-50S was 14 e. Just shop around for vintage orthos that have a good rep (a list can be found at Wikiphonia) and eventually you'll find one for cheap.
 
If you're in the US, you can also look for the Fostex T50RP that's currently in production.

Okay, thanks for the info! I'll peruse the internet for some of the ones you mentioned, & I'll check out wikiphonia too.

 

[fe2cruz]

I'm not sure if I should have started another thread but everything seems to be here anyway.
 
I just got into the world of Fostex Orthodynamic Headphones after hearing the amazing modified ones at the last LA Headphone meetup.
I purchased a Mickey Mouse round pad/cup t20v2 on Ebay which sounded pretty decent stock.
Most striking was how much more precise all the sounds were even without modification.
No matter how busy and stacked a mix was you could still make out every detail and instrument.
Even when muddied by distortion or heavy dirty reverb each individual sound was still clear and recognizable.
 
Still the bass needed help so I did some simple mods:
I replaced the pads with round Velour Ultrasone ones covered in Cotton/Nylon. 
I used Plumbers Putty to kill all the reflections in the can and taped the vents shut.
I put a little foam strip with a hollow center directly behind the driver and a big speaker sponge behind that.
I put a slip piece of gaffers tape over the front 3/4 section over the output side of the driver.
 
Now all the frequencies are balanced and the bass is still accurate but doesn't wobble with sub-bass below 20Hz.
Even with all the weight from the plumbers putty now totally 550g the headband design falls on over my head
perfectly. There is no stress on by skull or my ears. I seem to have the right shape head for old Sextets & old Fostex.
 
Now for my questions
 
1.
The t20 seems to need lots of power. My Sherwood solid state S-7200 receiver's headphone out seems to
be the only thing I have that sends enough power to really make the t20 sound its best. What is the best amp
for this thing? Or should I just buy another old 70s amp and hook up the t20 directly to the speaker outputs?
 
2.
The lack of impact in synthetic symphonic and movie bass below 20Hz bothers me. Is the 20Hz frequency
response really limiting the t20 or can something else be done? Some have commented that the t40 which goes
down to 15Hz sounds similar to my t20. The modified T50s(15Hz-30kHz) I have heard had great sub-bass for movies
symphonies and synthetic music. It wasn't always there like basshead phones, it just hits when its supposed to.
I'd like to get that from the t20, but wonder if I have to upgrade to a different orthodynamic driver or find a better 
power amp to achieve this. The t20 I will render that kind of bass at low levels but won't crank it like my 
Beyerdynamic DT150(250)10Hz-30kHz or Samson SR850(32)10Hz-30kHz. Neither of these dynamic
headphones can touch the precision of the t20 though. The DT150 comes close but still can't compare.
 
So should I go hunt for another Orthodynamic Headphone with better frequency response,
or buy another Amp and make more adjustments to my own t20?