Orthodynamic Roundup
Sep 8, 2011 at 4:05 PM Post #17,881 of 27,138
Keeping the little clips and rubber wire guides is the trick to keeping it neat. 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/6855#post_5268341
 
is a post from some time ago which shows how to convert from single to dual entry - unfortunately images have been rearranged in photobucket so I need to go back and edit the post. 
 
here are a few images that I have 
 

 
 
 

 

 

 
I know I have changed the headband cable but don't seem to have pictures of the headphones that I did this to..dB 
 
Sep 12, 2011 at 1:00 PM Post #17,882 of 27,138
random thought of the day: picking up some cheapo keyboard wrist pads from the dollar store and making earpads out of them. Some gel ones might be nice, but the beanbag types might be easier to work with.
 
Sep 13, 2011 at 3:23 PM Post #17,883 of 27,138
I have created a monster. 
bigsmile_face.gif

 

 
I have YH3 drivers in there now, but I made the phone with YHD drivers in mind.  Open back, with a ported baffle which is really fun to play with.  So far both drivers sound best with all ports open and they work with these Beyer velour pads.  Seems to defy all the laws of orthodome but I'm not complaining!  Sound is pretty nice so far, rich, airy and sparkly with plenty of bass.  Still needs fine tuning, the endless battle against upper midrange peaks and glare.  Though it seems most people aren't as sensitive to this as I am. 
 
I originally intended to use Grado style cups, but found them unnecessary in the end.  They help soundstage horizontal width in a nice way, but they create ringing and glare in the upper mids.  I've also tried them with all the pads I own, but I think I need to get more because they have a much bigger impact than any damping scheme.
 
Sep 14, 2011 at 3:50 AM Post #17,888 of 27,138


Quote:
 
Seems to defy all the laws of orthodome but I'm not complaining! 


Those "laws" don't exist anyway IMO, shure Yami drivers like (semi-)open vincinties and Beyer pads. Nice monster you've created there!
 
 
 
Sep 14, 2011 at 4:43 AM Post #17,889 of 27,138
Any pics of the innards? How far in/out the driver is seated, is it suspended etc? What did you use behind the driver for damping if any... or are these trade secrets? I'm really curious
 
Sep 14, 2011 at 6:03 PM Post #17,891 of 27,138
RD-- I love the look too, and if you want to feel you've broken every naughty rule in the ortho book, you go right ahead! Take the Monsterfon to a meet and get a consensus on the sound.
 
...I wish they'd let me have a look at the ortho book, but they say I've got to defeat the Balrog, whatever that is. Sounds like a make of East German car..
 
Sep 14, 2011 at 8:41 PM Post #17,892 of 27,138
Thanks!  They're super comfy too, I love the dual headband design.  I was actually planning on plugging up the vented baffle, but I thought it could be nice to experiment.  I thought the YHD drivers might do well in an open and vented enclosure because they're designed to work that way (though close to the ear).  With the YH3 drivers, the sound is quite similar to the sound of the drivers in their own enclosures (which I have modded to be open back) in terms of tone and FR, it's really not much different.  But soundstage is bigger and there's a lot more air.  Bass isn't quite as punchy probably, but that also depends on the pads.  The velours don't have a ton of bass, I have some Jmoney pads that give more bass. 
 
Something interesting that I noticed is that with the baffle vented, all the pads I have work better, though the K240 and O2 pads still sound bad on these.  The T20v2, jmoney, beyer leather and velour, kt88 k240, turtlebeach velours .  all work to some degree which is surprising considering how different those are in materials and size.  Once the baffle's ports are closed, the individual characteristics and colorations of the pads come out more.  This must mean that with the ported baffle, the pads aren't coloring the sound as much because the sound isn't trapped in a sealed chamber between driver and ear, it has a place to escape. 
 
I'll take some pics with the foam removed as soon as I can. 
 
Sep 14, 2011 at 9:07 PM Post #17,893 of 27,138
I am trying to convert my single entry HP50a to a dual entry so I gotta remove the strut/ball/socket assembly to rotate the cup, but can't figure out how to, I have been searching through the posts with the search engine but can't locate anything on this.
 
I remember there was a post by someone who repaired a broken strut by putting a metal sheet with a screw at the joint, but somehow I just can't find it again :)
 
Could someone advise me? Thanks.
 
 
(Just found a photo posted by Kabeer with a photo of the HP50S with the brown cap removed and I could see the screw, now I just gotta figure out how to remove that brown cap without digging a hole..)
 
 

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