[apatN]

You can easily install a Neutrik RA 3.5mm plug to any cable you want - they have a small footprint.

Oh, my YL is in da house. :-D

 

[EddieE]

Quote:

You can easily install a Neutrik RA 3.5mm plug to any cable you want - they have a small footprint.

Oh, my YL is in da house. :-D

And they fit in to the jack on the T50RP yeah? Or you're suggest just reterminating an existing T50RP cable?
 
Congrats on joining the (very small) team Yamalux! How're you finding them?
 
 

 

[wualta]

 
Quote:

Maybe my post was tldr, I hope so anyway as it would be a shame if no one knew of one -
 
Was wondering if anyone knows of a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable with a right angle plug that fits the input to the Fostex T50RP?

Just curious-- what's wrong with the cable Fostex provided?
 

 

[EddieE]

Nothing, I just want to get a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable as well.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I just received a T50RP from Full Compass. The 3.5 mm jack does not seem to properly seat, causing channel drop outs and static. Anyone experienced this?

 

[Sim1]

Quote:

I just received a T50RP from Full Compass. The 3.5 mm jack does not seem to properly seat, causing channel drop outs and static. Anyone experienced this?

Do you lock it properly? If you just plug it in at wrong position and do not twist to lock it may happen.
 

 

[Kees]

Quote:

I just received a T50RP from Full Compass. The 3.5 mm jack does not seem to properly seat, causing channel drop outs and static. Anyone experienced this?

Happens with mine too. And, yes, I locked it properly.
 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

Do you lock it properly? If you just plug it in at wrong position and do not twist to lock it may happen.
 

Yes.  I took it out, put it back in, and twisted to lock.  Channel drop outs occur In locked position. Slight movement makes it go in/out of stereo vs on side or the other Off.
 
I called Full Compass this morning.  They gave me free shipping back and shipped my replacement today.  They paid both ways since the unit is defective.  Great service and very nice.
 
 
 

 

[turimbar1]

you can fix that rather easily actually, and it is not uncommon for T50s because they do not use gold contacts (oxidation). I believe the product was called Deoxit. It is rather caustic stuff (it IS meant to take off oxidation) but I've heard it works well.

 

[joelpearce]

Yup, a little spritz of contact cleaner from time to time seems to take care of it.
 
Now, I'm not saying that's how things SHOULD be, but that seems to be how things are with them.  Both of my pairs have been like that (not one now that they're recabled).

 

[chrislangley4253]

the cable on mine is sketchy as well.. Maybe i'll try some of that deoxidizer. 

 

[nick n]

Quote:Originally Posted by joelpearce /img/forum/go_quote.gif

I found Wualta's guide on wikiphonia for the Pro 30 was pretty much spot on for getting a good sound from them.  It can be found here.  The other big thing I found was that the flattened pads were a bit uncomfortable.  The pads from a pair of those new Sony Piiq headphones (found at a surplus store for $10) fit perfectly with some contact cement, then I added some padding to the headband.  They are now awesome.
 
 
Looking at that wiki, it sure seems an easy and reversible mod. I may try to find some of those pads you mentioned, maybe at the $ony store. I do have some of that felt already but may also try a thin foam sheeting I have about the same thickness. It may be way too dense and reflective though. It's the stuff from the dollar/craft store that comes in 8 x 10 sheets of various colors. Would be interesting to see the difference. That foam may cause the worse effects of damping too much however that was mentioned in the wiki. These are one phone that I am not to worried about toying around with when I get them if I can ever get around to it. Thanks for that.

 

[wualta]

I'm not familiar with that foam you mention, but try it-- the Pro 30 is one of the easiest headphones to work on, in my admittedly limited experience.
 
The Pro 30 is easy to overdamp, not because it's already well-damped, but because the big flat reflective surface right behind the driver acts as a giant treble booster. So be prepared for an elevated treble along with some very high-quality bass. Though it's a nonreversible mod, JadeEast and ericj have removed the back of the cups on their Pro 30s and might have some suggestions. Good luck!
 
Random thought: The Pro 30 offers a drop-in alternative enclosure for the Yamaha YHD drivers. I have YHD-2 drivers in one of my Pro 30s and it's pretty darn good.
 
RE: the T50RP connector: I have 3 recent-production Fosteces, and they all had crud in the jack. A good contact cleaner takes care of the problem.

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

Quote:

Random thought: The Pro 30 offers a drop-in alternative enclosure for the Yamaha YHD drivers. I have YHD-2 drivers in one of my Pro 30s and it's pretty darn good.

In what way does that headset swap improve on the already quite good YHD2? (and how does the Pro30 driver sound in the YHD headset?)

 

[wualta]

Quote:

In what way does that headset swap improve on the already quite good YHD2? (and how does the Pro30 driver sound in the YHD headset?)

Mostly it gives you backwave control, but it also gives you opportunities to tune. There's room for damping material, and of course you can fool with the earpads as well. In my case, since a previous owner had messed up my YHD-2 somehow, the drivers needed a new home. 
 
Going the other way is an interesting idea, but the Pro 30's stock cable weighs more than the entire YHD-2, so some soldering would seem to be called for. Besides, I think the YHD drivers are superior.