[dBel84]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wualta /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Gave that to a passing hobo who said his name was Ed Weston.
 

Thought the guy at the meet looked familiar, very good of you to take him along so that he could broaden his horizons..dB
 

 

[wualta]

Actually, I'm more of a passing hobo myself these days. But that's not important now. BMF, why not just get yourself some nice old Kindermann or Nikor tanks and a good thermometer and have at it?  Ed mentioned something about having a hot model/girlfriend/wife around to keep the old inspiration up. Oh, and journals. Keep journals. Ravings of an old loony, if you ask me, but he said it works for him. I bet some headphone designers work that way, or would like to.

 

[rhythmdevils]

yeah or just get some trophs.  There's nothing like getting your hands in the chemicals and then eating a sandwich. 

 

[Sambones]

Hey, so everyone claims to have miraculous revelations, so I won't claim that. I'll just say that I've found something cool. A while ago, I bought some earpads from Koss, the most promising of them (see also: wasn't utter rubbish) was the MV1 earpads. I finally found a home for them on another SFI transplant. I'm pleased to report that they're performing phenomenally. They can get a little warm, but they put very little pressure directly on the ear. With the current damping, they have an extremely gradual rolloff below 70hz, but it doesn't disappear until 30hz. They still have the treble funniness that is the SFI weakness, but the midrange and below is perfect.
 
I compared the MV1 pads to the pads I had on them before and the headphones seemed to be a bit underdamped with the latter, but I can't detect any missing details using the MV1 pads in comparison to my speakers.
 
They're 3.5 inches in diameter, and are affixed via double-sided tape donuts that come with it. They would definitely work on Fostexens, but would look a bit weird, as they would leave a quarter-inch sticking out on the edges.
 

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Actually, I'm more of a passing hobo myself these days. But that's not important now. BMF, why not just get yourself some nice old Kindermann or Nikor tanks and a good thermometer and have at it?  Ed mentioned something about having a hot model/girlfriend/wife around to keep the old inspiration up. Oh, and journals. Keep journals. Ravings of an old loony, if you ask me, but he said it works for him. I bet some headphone designers work that way, or would like to.

 


Quote:

yeah or just get some trophs.  There's nothing like getting your hands in the chemicals and then eating a sandwich. 

 
Mainly because of the temp control and elevated bath temps required for processing color film as well as the extra steps involved...  Sure, I have about a dozen single-loop process controllers on my shelf of doom, but then I have to buy heating elements and make a bath tank, and other stuff...  I think I'll just let my local store do the developing for a bit and make sure I really want to keep shooting film.  That Olympus E-P1 keeps calling my name and I can pick one up with the zoom lens for $500.  Our Panasonic FZ-35 takes great pics too, but the flash irks me and it doesn't have a hot shoe like the PEN.  I need to see if there is an adapter to use Canon lenses on the PEN.  If there is, I'm golden and it's a done deal.  Shooting film is a $300 investment just for the scanner and decent software, plus the film itself and the developing.  But I love the AGFA and old school Fuji/Kodak films.  I could stick to B&W cheaply enough, but I don't have much free time as it is either...  So the benchtop color film processors caught my eye. 
 
I really need to thin the heard and pare down the headphones and gear too.  Still working to simplify and get rid of stuff so we're not bursting out of our little abode. 
 

 

[scompton]

My wife got new hearing aids a couple of weeks ago and we just went back for a follow up visit.  We got a copy of her audiogram.  -45dB at 250 Hz, -70dB at 500Hz, -80dB in her good ear at 1k, -110dB in her bad ear, -110dB at 1.5k and over -120dB at 2k and up.

 

[wualta]

Ach, heating elements, pah. Process controls, pah. You use Ortho Gestalt thinking combined with Cheap Bastardry and use a good thermometer and a big plastic dishpan filled with water you've adjusted to temp with ice cubes and spritzes of hot water from the tap, into which you plop all your reagent bottles and roll. Rocket soigery it's not. But yeah, it's much easier, not to mention less harmful to sammitches, to let your local lab do the C-41 (which is as old as the Wharfedale Isodynamic!). Just include shots of gray cards and grey scales on each roll and your scanner will love you. The problem with the ePen is no clevertrousers software correction of lens defects. Otherwise it's as cute as the original Pen F. Or my old OM-1.
 
Sambones: Looks good. Are those pleather-faced or foam?  Time to put in a good word for Koss-- they still sell earpads for rock-bottom prices. Of course they never fit perfectly, but for ~$5 a set, who cares? As you said, those look like they'd go good on, say, a T20v2.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

 
Quote:

Ach, heating elements, pah. Process controls, pah. You use Ortho Gestalt thinking combined with Cheap Bastardry and use a good thermometer and a big plastic dishpan filled with water you've adjusted to temp with ice cubes and spritzes of hot water from the tap, into which you plop all your reagent bottles and roll. Rocket soigery it's not. But yeah, it's much easier, not to mention less harmful to sammitches, to let your local lab do the C-41 (which is as old as the Wharfedale Isodynamic!). Just include shots of gray cards and grey scales on each roll and your scanner will love you. The problem with the ePen is no clevertrousers software correction of lens defects. Otherwise it's as cute as the original Pen F. Or my old OM-1.
 
Sambones: Looks good. Are those pleather-faced or foam?  Time to put in a good word for Koss-- they still sell earpads for rock-bottom prices. Of course they never fit perfectly, but for ~$5 a set, who cares? As you said, those look like they'd go good on, say, a T20v2.

 
Heh heh heh.  I have a couple of Fuzzy Logic controllers too! 
 
The big problem I saw with the EP-1 is the slow focus and the Canon lens adapter is $231 so that puts the total in the range of a D-SLR body so it's a no-go unless I found one used for a good price.  The new version also eighty-sixed the cool vertical scroll wheel. 
 
Speaking of Wharfie, I just received my Parts ConnX order which included Briggs book on Loudspeakers and it has a Wharfie a pic of the Wharfi sand-filled panel speaker which was a modification of his Brick Corner-Reflex speaker which used brick and mortar to make the box for the 15" woofer.  It's a brief 90 pages with the Appendix of plans, but what a cool little book! 
 
The best part about Koss is that a person usually answers the phone and if you know the correct extension, you can get through to the CEO. 

 
 

 

[Sambones]

 I'm not sure what you mean by "backed", but it's a soft vinyl exterior (completely untextured) with some foam on the inside. The back of the pad is a stiff, transparent plastic. It's cool to be able to see inside, at least initially. All the other pads I've gotten were the cheap pleather junk that deteriorates like crazy and sounds like crap.
 
And yes, they still charge $5 per pair, period. No shipping, processing, tax, or any other nonsense. If only they had decent earpads, other than this style.
 
As far as which ones are good? The MV1 uses the same pads as the ProAAAT, so I'd say that one, the SM/97, and K6 pads are on the nice list. I'm sure there are some other vintage koss "stereophone" pads to try, but I haven't been looking for a while.

 

[ericj]

 
Quote:

Hey, so everyone claims to have miraculous revelations, so I won't claim that. I'll just say that I've found something cool. A while ago, I bought some earpads from Koss, the most promising of them (see also: wasn't utter rubbish) was the MV1 earpads. I finally found a home for them on another SFI transplant. I'm pleased to report that they're performing phenomenally. They can get a little warm, but they put very little pressure directly on the ear. With the current damping, they have an extremely gradual rolloff below 70hz, but it doesn't disappear until 30hz. They still have the treble funniness that is the SFI weakness, but the midrange and below is perfect.
 
I compared the MV1 pads to the pads I had on them before and the headphones seemed to be a bit underdamped with the latter, but I can't detect any missing details using the MV1 pads in comparison to my speakers.
 
They're 3.5 inches in diameter, and are affixed via double-sided tape donuts that come with it. They would definitely work on Fostexens, but would look a bit weird, as they would leave a quarter-inch sticking out on the edges.
 
 

Interesting - look like HV/1 pads but with a rubber gasket.

 

[averagejose]

Double post

 

[averagejose]

I picked up a pair of Sansui SS-100 in a moderately strange trade. I got the headphones and he got a fishtank

 they're in really good shape and sound pretty good on my modest amp (Gotta look for one with more juice)

 

[BoilermakerFan]

That must have been a damn nice fish tank!
 
I have an unused 29 Gallon tank in storage if you decide you really miss your fish tank. 

 

[rhythmdevils]

Does anyone know any tricks for reducing an upper midrange peak?  I can't get it out of any of my Fostexen.  Even when underdamped, bassy, warm they still have an upper mid peak that sticks out, though it is less pronounced when there is less treble because all of that range is brought down.  I have pretty much exclusively been listening to the Fostex for the past few weeks while tinkering with them and I put on my Sextetts today and was so relieved to hear how smooth the midrange-treble region is.  Of course, then their grainy treble gets annoying after awhile.  If only the T10 and Sextett could have a baby.
 
Ive tried endless combinations of felts and foams and I tried Nikchen's pad mod on my T20v2, but it seemed to have the opposite affect- it thinned the sound and added air and treble.  Maybe I didn't use enough duct tape but I'm pretty sure I got a good seal. 

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Does anyone know any tricks for reducing an upper midrange peak?  I can't get it out of any of my Fostexen.  Even when underdamped, bassy, warm they still have an upper mid peak that sticks out, though it is less pronounced when there is less treble because all of that range is brought down.  I have pretty much exclusively been listening to the Fostex for the past few weeks while tinkering with them and I put on my Sextetts today and was so relieved to hear how smooth the midrange-treble region is.  Of course, then their grainy treble gets annoying after awhile.  If only the T10 and Sextett could have a baby.
 
Ive tried endless combinations of felts and foams and I tried Nikchen's pad mod on my T20v2, but it seemed to have the opposite affect- it thinned the sound and added air and treble.  Maybe I didn't use enough duct tape but I'm pretty sure I got a good seal. 

Only through trial and listening with combos of felts and 3M tapes... 
 
Or as we have said before, train your ears to no longer register or hear the peak.