[Philimon]

^ left-side driver magnet slightly mis-aligned (?).

^ right-side good

^ Used tape to remove stuck wool. The wool puck is held in position with spots of glue.

I realize now I should wipe down enclosure and remove all the dirty smudges for pics.

Grills removed easily enough. Its like a 2mm turn counterclockwise. To close must align properly then twist.

Removed all damping wool. Re-installed the papery dust filter before closing back up.

Sensitivity has gone up because reduced acoustic impedance.

Subjectively, this is much more my cup of tea. Warmer and more v-shape response is partly a requirement of my low-level volume listening to perceive as neutral according to Equal Loudness Contour, so ymmv. I think a little more highs might be preferable though...

Surely removing damping is tradeoffs but preferred compromises is individual. Let's go modding!

Since my pads are a bit oversized, I suspect when the 5-10mm smaller diameter pads arrive they may seal against driver a bit better and possibly improve frequency response. I could also try other pads if wanted... Current pads fit supraaurally which naturally reduces ear-gain (as seen in mehsures), so maybe circumaural pads or more damping is preferable.

Spoiler: Mehsurements, MINIDSP EARS, SS-100 mod2

Spoiler: CSD for Miiksu

For reference, from v-shapes are for me library.:

Spoiler: T20RP mod VS SS-100 mod2

Spoiler: Monoprice AMT vs SS-100 mod2

 

[GREQ]

That wiring is just ridiculous.

 

[ludoo]

That wiring is just ridiculous.

very similar to ECR-500

 

[Philimon]

very similar to ECR-500

While Stax SR-X mk3 had even less space and could still throw a resistor in there while still being neater! … benefit of dual side cable.

 

[ludoo]

While Stax SR-X mk3 had even less space and could still throw a resistor in there while still being neater! … benefit of dual side cable.

Weird, mk2 have no resistor, and neither have SR-5 (whose drivers are identical in both appearance and FR to mk3, I measured my stash of NBs yesterday including an SR-5 to mk2 transplant).

 

[Philimon]

^ interesting. I still need to try a SR-5 eventually.

 

[takato14]

@takato14 or anybody,
Im not sure how to open SS-100 so as to access and remove wool damping behind the driver. I wonder if the outside grills can just be pryed off, but Id rather not try because am scared of permanently denting. And underneath the pads its not so clear how to open from that side unlike T30 and T50 where there were exposed screws and less tight fittings.

Set the headphones in your palm, with the pad facing down. Press firmly into the mesh earcups with your other hand. Twist the pad hand clockwise and the mesh hand counter-clockwise.

First removal is difficult as there is a small spot of gummy adhesive holding the earcups in place. Keep your pressure equal and you won't have to worry about denting the mesh or popping it loose, as it's fused to the plastic (not glued) and has some spring to it.

Replacing the damping on these can have good results but usually it's better to leave them stock unless you have some very specific materials on hand. I can give you more specific details in private.

 

[Bingturong]

Weird, mk2 have no resistor, and neither have SR-5 (whose drivers are identical in both appearance and FR to mk3, I measured my stash of NBs yesterday including an SR-5 to mk2 transplant).

iirc, the resistor there is just extra protection for the SR-X mk3, due to its use in pro environments, since after all they were made to be used with the ridiculously powerful SRA-12S. Shouldn't change the sound one bit otherwise

 

[Philimon]

Replacing the damping on these can have good results but usually it's better to leave them stock unless you have some very specific materials on hand. I can give you more specific details in private.

I want to settle on preferred pads before I mess with damping... Thank you very much for the offer to help!

Pads damp: If a pad is sealing air against the driver then that is acoustic impedance damping so why the need for more on rear side? Is it not enough and how can you tell or is it a game of personally preferred compromise or preference? Wouldnt I be adding problems by introducing sources for reflection in an open-back?

edit: I dont know. Seeking guidance.

 

[khbaur330162]

I want to settle on preferred pads before I mess with damping... Thank you very much for the offer to help!

Pads damp: If a pad is sealing air against the driver then that is acoustic impedance damping so why the need for more on rear side? Is it not enough and how can you tell or is it a game of personally preferred compromise or preference? Wouldnt I be adding problems by introducing sources for reflection in an open-back?

edit: I dont know. Seeking guidance.

This is just what I thought was said before, anyone can correct me.

The rear damping would damp forward and reverse strokes like you said, but within its nature it adds acoustic resistance equilaterally? We achieve more pistonic motion from diaphragm with media damping, I believe is the pursuit, and this can smoosh the FR much flatter which is sometimes desirable, yet it sometimes produces artifacts or harshness which can be deal breakers.

 

[Philimon]

This is just what I thought was said before, anyone can correct me.

The rear damping would damp forward and reverse strokes like you said, but within its nature it adds acoustic resistance equilaterally? We achieve more pistonic motion from diaphragm with media damping, I believe is the pursuit, and this can smoosh the FR much flatter which is sometimes desirable, yet it sometimes produces artifacts or harshness which can be deal breakers.

Thanks khbaur. I wonder too if front and rear resistance benefit from being equal.

This audioxpress article discusses a little on the topic. Most of the other articles on the first 2pages of Bing search were behind paywalls. Quote from link.:

In the case of earphones and headphone enclosures, there are typically front and rear vents. If there is a headphone enclosure (earcup) venting positioned in front of the diaphragm, the bass will “evaporate” unless you use an acoustic resistance mesh. The acoustic mesh enables the use of a larger vent hole without loss of bass.
Selection of the degree of acoustic resistance controls the trade-off between bass output versus settling time (damping).