HI
Glad to see you back here, if only for a fast visit.
Yes the pads there at Koss are certainly cheap which is good.
There are a surprising amount of high quality pads around these days though for cheap. Maybe something is out there that can work also.
Nice to see you have gone down to only a few headphones. Wish I could do that. I'm close to a big selloff ( I think ) but have been saying that for a long time now.
You mentioned the "yellow biscuit" damping material as being what you liked the best.
I have had both good and bad trials with that stuff. Maybe i should try it again though since my tastes have changed over time , and I might like the stuff better nowadays.
***Your TEAM ORTHO link has expired. what did it originally point to? this thread?
I am looking at the Audiophile Indonesia place now. Too bad the translation tool I use is not that good
93 pages of ortho stuff I see! And then there is the first thread also.
i thought its only a fast visit though, but it seems i'm wrong..lol
actually i have saying before that i'm retired from the audiophilia stuff..
i have sell all of my personal audio stuff..my ipod, my dock interconnect, my portable DIY amp and my modded cans..
the Victor HP-D50 and Aristone EK400 are belong to my local forum pals, so they're not mine..
i use to experience with alots of material but somehow i back to yellow mineral wool..
mostly if i mod an vintage ortho cans that got no yellow biscuit to begin with, like Yammies for an example, i'll add a disc of rockwool or yellow glasswool to replicate the scheme that i usually do with the yellow mineral wool..then make revision progress from there..
ah yes, the Team Ortho link are pointed to this thread, of course..
maybe if i had time i edit my profile page, right now only open HF on my old iphone..
so you follow the All about orthodynamic thread that have 2 parts?
really?
wow, its really are an honour..
I see you've shamelessly stolen mr Takato's image for this one here, right? I'm not entirely sure that the mv1 uses the exact same pads as the pro4aaa. Looks like there's less of a "D" profile going on in the images I've looked at. Truly we come back to that proverbial yellow dampening so often.... There has to be a way to source the stuff. I imagine someone is sitting on a goldmine of material, in some ancient box, in some Foster factory.
oops, my bad..thanks for reminding me..
i've seen those pict by googling and share it here..i'll add some caption later to add copyright..
yes, MV1 have D profile..i'm not sure if it is exactly are the same as Pro 4AAA pads..
Figured I'd post my old T30 too since folks are talking mods and I had it out. Had to rewire it awhile back because the original cord finally gave out. I'll get around to a proper removable cord at some point. Mostly geared everything around iQEM's original work. Kept the yellow biscuit. Packed some acoustic fiberglass behind that (not sure of the brand but a pink wool). Kept the felt bass lens in the front. Stuck on the new pads with double sided tape and sealed it good. The wool makes them more semi-open than open like they were originally, but really fixed the treble. Imaging is fantastic. The thick pads are needed for the bass. Never thought I'd say that when you compare to the stock T30. Distance from the ear helps the soundstage too, which was compressed by the additional damping in the ear cups. It's very similar to a STAX lambda 202/207 etc but without the lambda upper treble spike.
wow nice sharing, mate..
i found an old pict of T30 driver (black fork) by googling, check it out..
here's what its like inside the housing right BEFORE i switch the sony XB500 pads to beats Detox pads..
using kester solder for the cables, dynamat'ing the driver edge&covering the whole plastic floor with silicon autosil to canceling the plastic reverb..
and later i have to remove the black sheet under that black felt-bass lens becos accidentally being ripped by transpore tapes when experimenting..lol
well, without the black sheets the staging somehow increase..
i wont recommend this step since if you dislike it you cannot undo the step..BUT if you could release it without rip it apart, go ahead..
so i leave nothing else on the baffle, only use the fabric sheets from pads it self..
I found that the yellow biscuit stuff is also the best for the RP18's.
Stock, both variants come with 2 layers, but I prefer to use one layer of yellow and one much larger layer of arctic cotton behind it, basically wide enough to fill the cup to absorb reflections.
Just that and the usual vibration absorbing stuff like sorbothane is all I need to do inside them to get them singing.
@iQEM - I don't think I like the look of those Koss pads very much... but it's probably worth my time buying a couple of different sizes at some point though if they're so cheap. I havn't checked EU prices for a while.
I may check them out at some point.
oh, so basically both NAD got 2pcs of yellow biscuits just like T50v0? lol
then why mine only have 1 but wider? different batch?
the MV1 are not bad at all, even if its look smaller diameter on the baffle but are okay..plus they're quite comfy..
here's several old picts that i found on my Facebook album years ago, from a local meet..
curious about the last pict sound wise?
to me&several pals that have A-Bing em using various setup, they both have similar sounding..
the NAD kapton modded are less smoother and less dull on the higher-end, but the rest are very much similar..
