Orthodynamic Roundup
Sep 10, 2015 at 3:28 AM Post #24,212 of 27,141
I know it's a very niche group, but anyone hesitating about removing the ear-side felt on a NAD RP18 should really just go ahead and do it.
It's actually extremely easy to do, and far less risky than I was lead to believe.
Add a little pressure from the outer-circumference of the ear-side grill and the black paint/tape on mine VERY easily came off.
For some reason, the actual felt was glued on very aggressively by comparison. 
redface.gif

 
After removing it, the difference was absolutely night and day. I hate that phrase since it's so over-used, but the day is real.  
 
Currently using over-ear leather pads, stock yellow damping, 9 thin micropore strips crossing the grills and a square piece of masking tape reflex-square-dot thingy in the middle.
 
Sep 10, 2015 at 3:51 AM Post #24,214 of 27,141
No I didn't.
I know the chance of something poking into the driver through the driver grills is stupidly low... but I have 2 small kids... so I'd rather leave it in ._.
 
What kind of change would one expect from removing it?
 
Sep 10, 2015 at 4:11 AM Post #24,216 of 27,141
I already changed my rear-grill on the HE-500 to speaker cloth among other things.
I think the perforated metal sheet grill they used on the HE-500 has a larger surface area than the woven grill the RP18 uses though.
Also the flat nature of the hifiman grill makes it more prone to a large single reflection compared to woven wire which is more diffusing.
 
The RP18 grill seems to be stuck down pretty hard, I don't want to do anything irreversible. 
 
Sep 21, 2015 at 1:33 PM Post #24,219 of 27,141
Hi, the plastic hinge mount on my T10 was obviously weak and has fallen apart , anyone have any suggestions for a replacement hinge mount or repairing the old one? Thanks]

If it were me, I'd start by epoxying the pieces back together in a surgical fashion.
Then I'd probably give the whole hinge an extra layer of epoxy all the way round to reinforce it.
 
Then after a day or so when that inevitably doesn't work, I would snap off and sand away the existing damaged mount and craft a new one in it's place.
 
My first thought is to source two TINY right-angle brackets and glue them on with epoxy back to back.
a like so...

But i really doubt anything exists that is actually small enough and the correct dimensions... i mean, that would be amazing if it really existed.
 
BUT, making one of these yourself - that's a much better idea, since you can measure it perfectly, put the hole in the right place, make it even wider on the glueing-side for better adhesive contact etc etc.
You just need a few simple tools and steady hands...
Probably achievable with 1 drill, 1 drill-bit for metal work, 1 hacksaw, a fine metal file, rough and fine sandpaper, and epoxy glue (like araldite, epoxy resin etc).  
The clever part would be how to bend the metal in perfect 90 degree angles. I'd probably just wing it with a vice, a scrap block of wood for absorbing impact and a hammer... I'm 100% sure there are better ways of doing it though.
 
And if you're really handy, you could spray paint it black before gluing it on.
 
Sep 23, 2015 at 5:18 AM Post #24,220 of 27,141
I will NEVER do another build without this stuff.
I'm using the 30D 1/10 inch self adhesive one.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/744839/damping-mechanical-resonance-distortion-of-stax-and-other-phones-with-sorbothane
 
Need to now go back in every single mod and use it wherever it can fit properly so I am going to be very busy.
Kinda wish this was around earlier, or at least on my radar a long time ago.
 There is zero doubt in my mind this is simply awesome stuff.
Try this.
Use it wherever you can on your baffles.
2 more sheets on the way.
 
my post is here:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/744839/damping-mechanical-resonance-distortion-of-stax-and-other-phones-with-sorbothane/255#post_11937817
 
All my dynamics will be getting this also.
 
Sep 25, 2015 at 7:31 PM Post #24,221 of 27,141
Thanks for the tip Nick but did you A/B it against newplast? at least the latter is easier to apply and remains king apparently: http://qualia.webs.com/newdampingfactors.htm
 
sorbothane      0.197
'Newplast'      0.635
 
But of course he didn't mention the thickness of sorbo he used duh.
BTW if anyone of you has too many orthos and could use a better source, feel free to send me trade offers if you like: http://www.head-fi.org/t/782161/
beerchug.gif

 
Sep 26, 2015 at 2:34 AM Post #24,222 of 27,141
A technical data point and seems no mention of :
  1. the thickness
  2. also important is the density of it  ( 30D, 50D, 70D ) 
  3. how much used
  4. what shapes used or how big pieces were
  5. sonic results in the sound itself
  6. other things :)
 
 that is a great resource i will bookmark it for later purposes!
 
I used it in a build that already had dynamat securing the drivers to the baffles quite substantially, and that did not give the same effect.
I have not heard this from the newplast build either. BUT I will go back to the T50 mod and add this on the baffle face around the driver as much as possible and see what difference it adds on top of that.
 
***If I do notice something more after doing that it will cinch my hunch that it is the magic bullet here.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top