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Orthodynamic Roundup
Aug 31, 2015 at 6:51 AM Post #24,181 of 27,141
nick n said:
  Good point = no idea here.
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other than the wiki I have forgotten what I read here already
Such a strange design the rear cups are simply a shroud.
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They (ID1) sound good :). Slightly bright top end, good strong bass. Midrange not as 'luscious' as a yamaha, but clear. 
Regarding driver rattle, I think defectiveaudiocomponent and sachu experienced this and came up with some solutions in the past. I can't remember what they were, but could be worth PM'ing them.
 
I used the stock damping, it's pretty good tbh. I think at times I only used 1 damping pad rather than 2. The main thing is they really need a lot of power to sing. I used to drive them directly out of my vintage Cyrus 1 speaker amp. One of my backburner projects (sitting there for years....) is to make this driver more efficient. 
 
MuZo2: no the drivers are not like NAD and Foxtex. Although they were made by Rank, which was the same driver developer. The ID1 drivers are a corrugated rectangle, suspended on 2 ends only, with a very weak magnet structure (a bit like fridge magnet sheet with holes punched in it..)
 
Sep 1, 2015 at 4:00 AM Post #24,188 of 27,141
ferrytrainhp1 said:
  Hi Guys,
I have Just received my Fostex T10 I snagged on eBay for $125AUD, good deal?  I have a pair of anastrophic? ( black box ) yamaha HP1s and I am curious about which cans have the best potential sound quality?
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Yeah, that's a decent price if it's in good shape.
 
I think Fostex are better overall, but I'm biased since I prefer full-size headphones over on-ears every time. 
Also my experience in Yamaha is limited to 2 headphones (HP-3 and HP-2) both of which I didn't enjoy very much due to insufficient frequency extension (I prefer elevated sub-bass).
 
I did try modding a T20V2, and it comes fairly close to a properly modded T20/40/50RPMKII, although the driver is clearly less agile when playing complex music.
I easily prefer my NAD-RP18 (T50 variant) over all of them, but it has unique self-made earpads which have a strong affect on the sound and comfort as it makes them over-ear headphones.
 
Often 'better' is subjective, but if we're talking T10 vs. HP1 potential, the HP1 will win.
 
Sep 1, 2015 at 7:37 PM Post #24,189 of 27,141
Low end rattle on the ID1 is still there but when i press very hard on the metal cover it lessens to near nothing, so I will file these  away and mess with them later, lost interest for now. Taking apart the drivers looks to be a hassle with those tiny wires.
 
Sep 1, 2015 at 8:46 PM Post #24,190 of 27,141
neogeo333 said:
 
Does anyone here have a working ID1 in proper shape? 
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Stock , what blasphemy is this you speak of!  I guess i could allow you the leeway of "proper shape". Mine are indeed in proper shape and sound marvelously rich with deep bass and tinkly highs. :) 
 
many thought that they were the epitome of how orthos should sound ( the original ) but they had to be driven by a behemouth power amp , BUT modern orthos have proven to be far more capable in their technical abilities, so no contest 
 
..dB
 
Sep 5, 2015 at 2:25 PM Post #24,193 of 27,141
drivers look like a mini-SFI hah, what's their diameter again?
 
do they also suffer from the same dynamics compression as all 38mm SFI drivers(even yamie OEM's for that matter)?
 
Sep 5, 2015 at 2:34 PM Post #24,194 of 27,141
leeperry said:
  drivers look like a mini-SFI hah, what's their diameter again?
 
do they also suffer from the same dynamics compression as all 38mm SFI drivers(even yamie OEM's for that matter)?
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Does anyone around here actually own one?
 
The measurements aren't too promising.
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/YamahaYH5M.pdf
 
I don't think that would actually stop any of us wanting one though. 
 
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