[nick n]

It is a quilt batting material, there is A.Cotton ( 80% Cotton-20% Polyester ) and an A. Bamboo version (50% Natural Bamboo 50% Cotton) , basically a fuzzier felt type material, around the same thickness as felt. A.Bamboo is a little more transparent and slightly thinner, A.Cotton is slightly thicker and fuzzier.
They are my go-to in one form or another between the two of them usually things work out well, and of course in combination with other things often.
 
http://quiltparadise.ca/products/index.php?Category=Battings
 
http://store.hamelsfabrics.com/stores_app/Browse_dept_items.asp?Shopper_id=9719329333379719&Store_id=360&Page_id=17&categ_id=6118&parent_ids=0,87&name=Quilt+Batting+-+Arctic+Batting
 
The first link is the safest and cheapest i would guess ( hard to find decent links! )
If it is a real pain in the butt to source out PM me and I can send a bunch out to you on me  since it is relatively cheap and i get it by the metre/yard. Same two types as have been used in here to decent result.
 I will make a point of going out tomorrow and getting another yard or two of each to ensure I have enough for a lifetime of mods.
 
 
It was part of one of the  crucial keys in the main Memory Foam Mod T50rp  damping recently posted in the Incremental Mods Thread
 
By the way have you ever opened the TDS-7, it scares me. I have seen it open in pictures before and can tell where the tabs are but doing it is another intimidating factor, definitely need opening and tweaking, but I don't wish to botch it up! I can usually get into most things including trouble

 

[MuZo2]

Thanks for explanation on A Bamboo. Wood need to see if I can find something here in europe.
I haven't opened any Amfiton yet. I was going to ask BMF if TDS-7 drivers could be transplanted to Takstar?
This weekend I got another ortho Universum 

 

[nick n]

Ahh the Universum, the square ones ...

 

[MuZo2]

Yeah, need to re-wire them.

 

[MuZo2]

 
Do tube amps work well with orthos?

 

[dBel84]

Hybrids like the LG but not OTL type tube amps

 

[leeperry]

  Do tube amps work well with orthos?

 
Not sure but you want a high current headamp basically.

 

[nick n]

  Yeah, need to re-wire them.

Can you let me know what you end up doing for damping inside those, they are sort of an open thing because of all the space around the horizontal volume dial, if they are the same as what I am thinking.
Think I made some sort of permeable chamber on the back of the driver directly

  Thanks for explanation on A Bamboo. Wood need to see if I can find something here in europe.

I've shipped stuff much further than Europe... what's an extra stamp , nothin to me...

 

[gurubhai]

Hybrids like the LG but not OTL type tube amps

My 6AS7 OTL handles the Yamaha orthos and LCD-2 with ease. The output stage is biased higher than the usual though.

 

[dBel84]

That is cool Guru - the 6AS7 can put out a lot of current.
 
Here is a project that is long overdue 
 
This project has been a long time comming. I have had the head-band and turned cups for at least 5 years and the final vision for which drivers etc has changed many times. The motivation came when my son accicentally killed my iems which I use for travel and as I am not a fan of iems, I decided to explore options for travelling. I love my Yamaha YHD1's as they are small and light and reasonably efficient, but they are open and not travel friendly. This got me to thinking about using this driver for a closed headphone. I happen to have had a closed YHD2 which someone stood on at RMAF a few years ago and they have never been quite the same. Tyll wrote a short blurb about them here  http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/diy-orthodynamic-headphones-dbel84-page-3  

It was finally time for me to acknowledge that their time had come to an end and thus came the inspiration to dust off the cobwebs from the "fake" AT-ESW9 frame and take a closer look at the raw cups I had been given ( iirc it was our beloved smeggy )

First I had to drill holes so that the forks of the headband would hold them correctly 





Next came the trickier part to free hand grind down the edges so that I could make them round







I then made baffles to hold the drivers



and finished rounding off the cups



Then used some natural wax and coated, steel wooled and polished X eternity ( at least 7 times ) 



and finally assembled them after tuning / tweaking and getting an opinion from Tari






Final take is not too shabby - have a good FR per my ear and are compact enough to travel , need to test the isolation but they might work as intended. 

..dB

 

[nick n]

Beautiful work. 
That must have taken forever to shape those up it looks like some seriously hard wood. Recall what it is?
 
Great idea on using an upright belt sander like that, I assume it's how you used it ropped up.
For some stupid reason using wood wax totally slipped my mind, Watco oil seems to fade off.
 
Do you have anything inside the cups?
How large is the hole for the bass?
 
Hi gurubhai...

 

[gurubhai]

Hi Nick!
 
Quote:

  Here is a project that is long overdue 

That looks great Don and I bet that it sounds great too. Reminds me that I have a pair of yhe50 drivers lying around and I need to find some time for them...

 

[nick n]

it's really nice to see this thread staying upfront again, seemed to linger in the background for a while. I have a few projects in some drawers that need attending to( some yamaha drivers, russian drivers, even and SFI or two !), and after dragging out the AT-701 banded Alder SFIs again I need to hit those projects up.
hard to believe actually the sound you can get from these things in the right dampings and housing
 
Wish there were more people involved in this, absolutely love seeing things in the DIY area.{ where's all the new blood??? }
 
Any thoughts on a shell for those drivers Gurubhai?

 

[dBel84]

  Beautiful work. 
That must have taken forever to shape those up it looks like some seriously hard wood. Recall what it is?
 
thanks , it is African Padauk - it is exceptionally hard
 
Great idea on using an upright belt sander like that, I assume it's how you used it ropped up.
 
 it is actually a cheapo belt sander - I clamped the handle in a vise and made sure it was solid before going at it
 
For some stupid reason using wood wax totally slipped my mind, Watco oil seems to fade off.
 
- I had intended to try DEFT which Frank Cooter had recommended. Our local hardware store didn't have any and I was itching to keep moving. I ended up using a product called briwax because I had a can of it. I have tried oils in the past and it is messy and stinks to high heaven 
 
Do you have anything inside the cups?
 
Inside is actually 2 chambers, 10mm x 45mm followed by 17mm x 34mm
 
I initially lined the the wall with craft foam but removed it as caught the edges of the driver. The bottom of the top tier has a ring of sound damping foam, the lower tier is walled with craft foam and a disc of Moorbrook felt ( small scraps that I have never thrown away ) 
 
 
I damped the driver with some dense natural wool felt. I tried variations of AC and AB but ultimately preferred the immediacy and detail that felt provided 
 
How large is the hole for the bass?
 
 about 5mm

 

  That looks great Don and I bet that it sounds great too. Reminds me that I have a pair of yhe50 drivers lying around and I need to find some time for them...

 
thanks, I know have that set of unused padauk from the original if you would like to tinker 
 
..dB

 

[Ishcabible]

  it's really nice to see this thread staying upfront again, seemed to linger in the background for a while. I have a few projects in some drawers that need attending to( some yamaha drivers, russian drivers, even and SFI or two !), and after dragging out the AT-701 banded Alder SFIs again I need to hit those projects up.
hard to believe actually the sound you can get from these things in the right dampings and housing
 
Wish there were more people involved in this, absolutely love seeing things in the DIY area.{ where's all the new blood??? }
 
Any thoughts on a shell for those drivers Gurubhai?

 
I've been meaning to fix my wood enclosures for my SFI drivers too. Since my school lets us use their 3D printers for free, I'll probably design something sooner or later.