[lecky]

iheadphones has a deal on T50-RPs - £60 - which seems pretty fair for the UK, so ordered a pair today. Looking forward to hearing how they can be made to sound compared to mt T20v2s. The Smeggy Thunderpants that Kabeer had were very interesting. I can see some lathe work at some point in my future...

 

[wualta]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gurubhai /img/forum/go_quote.gif I did a frequency sweep with sinegen. I found my T20 to be smooth from 1k to 10k apart from a dip between 7.5-8k & the sound alternately pans to one ear in that range. Can some one explain this?

Sounds like the two sides don't quite match up. As to the cause, could be normal production variation, but could also be slight damage affecting tension or stiffness of the diaphragms.

 

[gurubhai]

perhaps, or may be it is due to the cup resonance.
Not really a significant problem, didn't notice it during my listening sessions.

The DT880 600 ohm in comparison have a dip at around 4k & a big peak at 6.5k,
so T20 is actually the smoothest headphone I have had.

 

[Sambones]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dBel84 /img/forum/go_quote.gif heh, this flashed through my mind when I responded but realized medial lateral would be the best anatomic descriptive and BMF, this is just sad On the frequency response front - this is the principal I work on, no idea how accurate it is but most of the damping responses work I consider essentially 2 types of drivers ( I know this is a gross oversimplification but their reaction to damping can be split this way ) 1. center pinned 2. not The center pinned drivers - most of the yamahas, the PMBs all behave like a ring radiator ( but again not quite) Because the center is pinned the diaphragm in this region moves less that the diaphragm at the periphery . My simple interpretation is that most high frequencies come from the center and the bass comes from the edge. I thus damp these drivers differentially, emphasizing the heavier damping centrally to control the mids and push up the highs while leaving the edge some freedom to move air. The other drivers ( not all ) are attached at the edges and although the force exerted is evenly distributed, I treat these as the converse of the center pinned drives - ie bass comes from the center while the edges produce the highs/mids and thus differentially damp them to keep the ceneter less heavily damped . This is where the donut concept comes in. ..dB

So, I guess this is what's going on with my T20v2, and I didn't realize it. I wanted to remove the cups completely, and go for an open set, so I used a disc of dynamat with a hole punched in the center (sticky side out), with a microfiber cloth disc on top of it. I put a small piece of packing foam in the middle, to tension up the "shamois" layer, to kill the mid-bass bloat. So, apparently, what you describe is exactly what I did.

So far, my only annoyance with it is that the only comparison 'phones I have are sub-$100 (PMX-100, Creative Aurvana Live, Sony MDR-v6), so I have no idea how good or not-yet-good these are.

 

[jp_zer0]

I've been reading up on orthos but the info is pretty hard to come by so I'll ask this blunt general question: Is it possible to get into the ortho world with $400 and if so, what would be the best way?

 

[gurubhai]

^^ If you had been reading more carefully you would have known that the target entry price here is more like $40

 

[jp_zer0]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gurubhai /img/forum/go_quote.gif ^^ If you had been reading more carefully you would have known that the target entry price here is more like $40

I mean the whole rig.

I know that orthos can be cheap. But I have heard that not just any amp can drive them. also in regards to modding, can a noob bring them up to snuff?

BTW, There's a yamaha hp-3 I can grab for next to nothing, is that one any good?

 

[gurubhai]

here you go :

Amplifiers for use with orthodynamic headphones - Wikiphonia

 

[jp_zer0]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gurubhai /img/forum/go_quote.gif here you go : Amplifiers for use with orthodynamic headphones - Wikiphonia

That article didn't help very much.

Just a bunch of amplifiers with a short description.

How many mW are needed? Maverick D10 enough? Travagan's Red?

Although I guess they do recommend the Solid States so I know that much.

 

[DefectiveAudioComponent]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jp_zer0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif BTW, There's a yamaha hp-3 I can grab for next to nothing, is that one any good?

Some people like it. I have the similar HP-50. It sounds good to me. Go grab it, and and have a listen

 

[mypasswordis]

Yup if you can get it for next to nothing, go for it. Then cram a lot of felt in the cups and you should be good to go.

In general, orthos like a lot of good clean power.

 

[dBel84]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jp_zer0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif How many mW are needed?

This all depends in the impedance of your headphone but you won't go amiss throwing a good 10W at most orthos

Quote:

Originally Posted by jp_zer0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Although I guess they do recommend the Solid States so I know that much.

no such thing - if you do read this thread , big old mosfet receivers are FOTM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jp_zer0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Maverick D10 enough? Travagan's Red?

Does Travagan's Red taste any good? sounds like it should.

..dB

edit - grab the HP3 , the small driver Yamaha's have some of the best magic

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jp_zer0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif That article didn't help very much. Just a bunch of amplifiers with a short description. How many mW are needed? Maverick D10 enough? Travagan's Red? Although I guess they do recommend the Solid States so I know that much.

You can get into orthos for $400 easily if you can DIY. The Fostex T20v2s are probably the easiest to come by and sound great for the usual price around $55-$75. You can get new T50RPs for $80-$90'sh shipped, but I feel they lack bass compared to the older Fostex. T10s and T20v1s are awesome, but in the $100-$150 neighborhood. The small driver Yammies are still reasonable at $60-$125 depending on model.

For amps, I have a vintage Yamaha CR-620 and love it, but also have a couple others in the works: MOSFET-MAX V1.2 (bumped up to 3.5A supply and 135-175mA bias on the FETs), an Aikido 24V planned at 75V (with 80-100mA bias initially before I take it up to 135-170mA on a big slab heatsink). Any of the Yamaha CR-x20s are great, but the CR-620, CR-820, and CR-1020 are the easiest to find on eBay.

The CTH and EHHA are the other two amps that would be on the short list if I needed to stick to the $400 budget and I'll probably build an EHHA before too long and let my three hybrids duke it out in the ring, then sell off two.

 

[Faust2D]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jp_zer0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif That article didn't help very much. Just a bunch of amplifiers with a short description. How many mW are needed? Maverick D10 enough? Travagan's Red? Although I guess they do recommend the Solid States so I know that much.

Get something like Dynalo or CKKIII and you will be happy. I heard both during a meet and they worked very well with YH-1 and HP-50.

 

[jp_zer0]

VINTAGE MARANTZ 2216 STEREO RECEIVER 0359 on eBay.ca (item 350327255669 end time 18-Mar-10 14:50:54 EDT)

Something like this? :|D