Apr 9, 2014 at 6:30 AM Post #22,741 of 27,319
  Chill out, you two!
 
Put some nice music on your planars!

I'm sleepy and a bit confused as to what's going on, but I do agree with this sentiment.
 
My vintage orthos haven't arrived yet though so I've got none to listen to 
frown.gif

 
Apr 9, 2014 at 11:53 AM Post #22,742 of 27,319
Hi, I'll definitely post pictures of the headband prototypes when they're ready . . . .   for one thing, I'll need input from as many people as possible regarding whether I should produce an all-plastic model.  I like the idea personally, but if most people want the "original" design, it might not be cost-effective to produce an all-plastic version.
The YH/HP models are the most numerous ones out there, and they all use the same headband, so that's why I'm going to make that one first.
But once I get the process down, it shouldn't be too expensive for me to make ones for the other (less numerous) models.
 
Apr 9, 2014 at 12:25 PM Post #22,743 of 27,319
  Hi, I'll definitely post pictures of the headband prototypes when they're ready . . . .   for one thing, I'll need input from as many people as possible regarding whether I should produce an all-plastic model.  I like the idea personally, but if most people want the "original" design, it might not be cost-effective to produce an all-plastic version.
The YH/HP models are the most numerous ones out there, and they all use the same headband, so that's why I'm going to make that one first.
But once I get the process down, it shouldn't be to expensive for me to make ones for the other (less numerous) models.

You should make a prototype of both designs and then ask people which one they prefer. Or maybe, you can allow the option of buying one or the other and make them to order. 

Do they work for the TDS-5 and 5M too? I assume they would since they have a practically identical shell to the HP/YH-1 but I'd still like to confirm 
smily_headphones1.gif
 
 
Apr 9, 2014 at 1:22 PM Post #22,744 of 27,319
  You should make a prototype of both designs and then ask people which one they prefer. Or maybe, you can allow the option of buying one or the other and make them to order. 

Do they work for the TDS-5 and 5M too? I assume they would since they have a practically identical shell to the HP/YH-1 but I'd still like to confirm 
smily_headphones1.gif
 

Yes, I plan to make both the fabric and non-fabric versions as prototypes.
As for the other models, I haven't looked at them for a while.  So first, I have to see how many other/different versions there are;  and then, hopefully get owners to lend me their phones (or at least the headband) for 3D scanning.
 
Speaking of '3D scanning', the process and available materials have advanced to the point where it is now possible to scan and then recreate many parts, especially ones made of plastic (although metals and ceramic is now available from some fabricators.)  If this all goes well, I will see about reproducing other parts, such as cups and slider/carrier parts.
 
Apr 9, 2014 at 4:43 PM Post #22,745 of 27,319
Scanning might seem like a good idea but its just as easy to draw each part since you will still have to clean up the model after scanning. Do you plan to 3d print or mold the plastic?
 
I have been trying to figure out a good all plastic headband design that can be printed to complement my printed cups but have been striking out. Latest venture is to use metal and print all the connecting pieces, 301 stainless 14 gauge 1/2" wide gives a nice clamping pressure and is easy to drill so that's likely to be part of my final BOM. 
 
How about we get a 3d printing and modeling thread going to pool our collective efforts. I don't want to venture to far off topic here and get the mods all pissy.
 
Apr 9, 2014 at 6:27 PM Post #22,746 of 27,319
  Scanning might seem like a good idea but its just as easy to draw each part since you will still have to clean up the model after scanning. Do you plan to 3d print or mold the plastic?
 
I have been trying to figure out a good all plastic headband design that can be printed to complement my printed cups but have been striking out. Latest venture is to use metal and print all the connecting pieces, 301 stainless 14 gauge 1/2" wide gives a nice clamping pressure and is easy to drill so that's likely to be part of my final BOM. 
 
How about we get a 3d printing and modeling thread going to pool our collective efforts. I don't want to venture to far off topic here and get the mods all pissy.

Hi bootdsc
 
I would certainly be interested in a "3D Printing" thread, and would be happy to contribute to it.  Perhaps it could go in the DIY forum?
 
As for my current project (the Yamaha headbands) I'll keep posting here obviously, because this project will be of interest primarily to owners of those headphones.
 
But please let me know if you decide to start such a thread.  I think it's an idea whose time has arrived;  and should be fine with our moderators ;~)
 
Apr 10, 2014 at 2:09 AM Post #22,748 of 27,319
TDS-5 and TDS-5M arrived today. Took both of them apart too. The TDS-5 uses flathead screws so no problems there. The 5M on the other hand was an absolutely hassle to take apart and I had to go to the hardware store to get screw removers before I finally took it apart. I can post pictures of the exposed drivers and the headphones themselves if anyone wants, but I didn't take pictures documenting the process of taking them apart, as I figured that people may already have taken them apart and documented the process on this thread.
 
Apr 10, 2014 at 2:50 AM Post #22,750 of 27,319
Why are you taking them apart right away ? Are you not interested in getting used to/learning the stock sound over time.
 
Apr 10, 2014 at 4:03 AM Post #22,751 of 27,319
  Why are you taking them apart right away ? Are you not interested in getting used to the stock sound.

 
I dont think there are picture of TDS-5 and TDS-5M disassembly. I guess in russian forums there are some.

Man, I'm an idiot. I put the TDS-5M back together immediately after reading that post. This time, I photographed the whole process!
Bare drivers, both sides, with the strain relief attached.

I didn't know which side was left or right on the shell as I don't personally know Russian. However, using google translate yielded this:
 

So this must mean that this is the right side.

Damped the cup vents using the felt and placed the wool at the back of the cup, like it was stock.

Stuck the driver in. However, I was worried that the cable leading out would catch on the baffles.

So I tucked the cable underneath the driver before placing it in the cup and putting the strain relief in its proper place in the cup. There was also a small piece of foam sealing the cup from the hole for the cable so I replaced it.

I used the baffle and screws from the TDS-5 and attached it to the TDS-5M cups because I hate phillips-head screws and forgot to pick new ones up at the hardware store.

Same deal with the left cup.



Stuck on the TDS-5 pads as the TDS-5M pads were shot, and I'm done.

 
Head-fi's first TDS-5M reconstruction feat. TDS-5 parts!
 
Apr 10, 2014 at 4:04 AM Post #22,752 of 27,319
  There is already a 3dprinting thread in DIY section. Someone printed fostex cups.

Yeah i have seen it but that threads pretty dead. He used a cnc to mill wooden cups, its subtractive printing unlike filament printers that are additive. Its a nice looking project, its to bad he didn't make a few dozen copy's.
 
There is also a Grado 3d print thread but it fizzled out too.
 
Apr 10, 2014 at 8:05 PM Post #22,754 of 27,319
Hey, do you guys have any suggestions for good 70mm pads which are pleather or leather and feel nice? The pads of my TDS-5M are rather flat and I would like to try replacing them for comfort reasons. So far, I can mostly only find crappy Chinese OEM ones on google which I absolutely despise the feel of. The nicest I can find are Audio Technica ESW9 pads but I don't know about the inner diameter (which is important) or how to even order them (which is even more important). I've also searched this thread and haven't been able to find anything except for the suggestion of using Stax SR-X pads, but when I looked them up on audiocubes they apparently have an external diameter of 84mm which is too big. Thanks guys.
 
Apr 10, 2014 at 10:33 PM Post #22,755 of 27,319

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