[Dyaems]

Quote:

Cool mods, first off.
 
You could try decreasing the ear chamber volume. Whether that's using some type of foam around the inner perimeter of the pads, changing to supra-aural pads, or adding supra-aural pads underneath the cirumaurals you're using now I don't know. Also, you could try damping the fronts of the drivers, or give a bass lens another shot. This will most likely make them a bit less sensitive and harder to drive, but my SFI-380's had front-damped drivers, extensively reduced ear chamber volume, were a sob to drive, yet had really nice bass, imo. Driver housings were also open, but this should reduce bass compared to your project there, I 'd imagine. Sorry if it's been stated, I forget the exact details of your mods, but what's going on with your drivers housings in regards to venting? Bass port? Anyway, good luck.
 

 
I just tried using bass lens again before i finish modding using a thick felt (the same thing i used before) but i covered the felt with leatherette and the bass really didn't improve for me. I will also try using supraaural pads since I have alot of them here, hehe...
 
im supposed to reduce the ear chamber yesterday using thick cotton so that it would look fluffy on the outside but i totally forgot! thanks for reminding me!
 
any idea what material to dampen the front of the driver? there is nothing covering infront of the driver.
 
no bass port on the cup area, but on the baffle/driver area i think there is a huge air flowing out due to baffle design. ill try to take pics when i have time.
 
 
the current mod only consists of
- accoustifoam behind the drivers
- creatology adhesive felt inside the cups, didn't remove the sticky material though since it is only temporarly
- sometimes i stuff the back of the pads using a rope (from the srh 940 rope mod) to give abit more bass response but the headphone pads' "flap" is starting loosen up

 

[Dyaems]

Quote:

They can easily suffer from a midrange peak not too far from what sometimes plagues the T50RP, ime. I feel it's dealt with best by trying to maximize bass, yet oddly it seemed the ATH-2 frame had more of an issue with this than my SFI-380's which was rather unexpected. Anyway, if you read impressions about the ATH-2 you'll quickly find comments about its midrange sounding "nasal." I believe this is what you're describing. There's never been much I could do about it, nor the splashy treble, but that's just me. I still think they sound excellent.

yeah, i feel that it could be fixed by giving the headphones more bass. so that is what i am trying to do right now. i will follow kalbee's suggestions and see how it goes!
 
 
 
 
Quote:

I assume the baffle join is sealed nice and tight, do you have any bass port holes on the cups?

 
no bass port holes on the cups, even CAL or the denon doesnt have it. that would probably my last resort, i guess. about the baffle, i really cant tell if it is completely sealed now. the stock baffle with the paper material is not completely sealed, so i removed the paper and used dynamat on it instead at an attempt to seal the baffle, i guess it didn't really worked. i could use some plasticine or clay again to cover the holes further though. the last time i did that it gave channel imbalance because i think the amount of clay used are uneven. silly me.

 

[khbaur330162]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dyaems /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
1) I just tried using bass lens again before i finish modding using a thick felt (the same thing i used before) but i covered the felt with leatherette and the bass really didn't improve for me. I will also try using supra aural pads since I have alot of them here, hehe...
 
2) any idea what material to dampen the front of the driver? there is nothing covering infront of the driver.
 
3) no bass port on the cup area, but on the baffle/driver area i think there is a huge air flowing out due to baffle design. ill try to take pics when i have time.

1) How big was the opening of the bass lens?
 
2) You might be able to use the felt you've been using for the bass lens, tbh, but then again it might be too thick/dense judging from your description. Your call. I just glued some felt onto the front magnets for my SFI-380's using Elmer's. I had slightly denser felt glued onto the rear magnets so it didn't sound anemic. It definitely killed sensitivity, but ime it forced the diaphragm to obey the signal I was feeding it and not behave... adversely. Very quick attack and punchy.
 
3) This seems dangerous. Maybe I'm reading you wrong, or you misworded something, but this sounds like it would seriously muddle up your midrange and annihilate any semblance of bass. Definitely get us some closeups.
-edit-
NVM! I understand now. Sounds fine to me.
 

about the baffle, i really cant tell if it is completely sealed now. the stock baffle with the paper material is not completely sealed, so i removed the paper and used dynamat on it instead at an attempt to seal the baffle, i guess it didn't really worked. i could use some plasticine or clay again to cover the holes further though. the last time i did that it gave channel imbalance because i think the amount of clay used are uneven. silly me.

This is what I was afraid of. Electrical tape?

 

[Dyaems]

Quote:

1) How big was the opening of the bass lens?
 
around 19-20mm in diameter. is it too big?
 
2) You might be able to use the felt you've been using for the bass lens, tbh, but then again it might be too thick/dense judging from your description. Your call. I just glued some felt onto the front magnets for my SFI-380's using Elmer's. I had slightly denser felt glued onto the rear magnets so it didn't sound anemic. It definitely killed sensitivity, but ime it forced the diaphragm to obey the signal I was feeding it and not behave... adversely. Very quick attack and punchy.
 
the felt i used for the bass lens is around 2mm thick, i tried 3mm as well but no good. i can buy a soft/light felt though, prolly 1mm thick or less.
 
3) This seems dangerous. Maybe I'm reading you wrong, or you misworded something, but this sounds like it would seriously muddle up your midrange and annihilate any semblance of bass. Definitely get us some closeups.
-edit-
NVM! I understand now. Sounds fine to me.
 
i will still take a pic of the baffles, pretty sure there is alot of air flowing from the stock baffle, which makes the stock d1001 "bass light" to me.
 
This is what I was afraid of. Electrical tape?
 
ill try electric tape but this is one of the "usual problems" of those pads, it easily gets loose. my supraaural leatherette pads has loose flaps as well but those are made poorly since it is very cheap.
 
 

 
answers in bold!

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

yeah, i feel that it could be fixed by giving the headphones more bass. so that is what i am trying to do right now. i will follow kalbee's suggestions and see how it goes!

Huh? Which suggestion would that be? I don't remember anything at all, nor do I remember if I updated my posts when it turns out things don't work...

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Local find .......

You (Lucky) Dog!

Great find... You must be living Right!

 

[wualta]

Quote:

YHE50A is really good with treble. ... Why isn't this little yamaha popular here. I think it offers one of the blackest backgrounds.

I really like the YHE-50S-- I think it's one of the best things Yamaha did in their ortho adventure, which is not to say it can do everything one could possibly want a headphone to do, and do it as well as one could possibly want it done. 
 
The problem with the YHEs is finding one at all over here in NA, and finding it at a reasonable price [sound familiar?], so I don't talk about it much. I've already made that mistake.  Are the YHEs plentiful where you are?
 
UPDATE: Oo, immaculate T50! Hope it wasn't too painful to obtain.

 

[Dyaems]

Quote:

Huh? Which suggestion would that be? I don't remember anything at all, nor do I remember if I updated my posts when it turns out things don't work...

i was referring to khbaur's post and i somewhat agree.. or i am misunderstanding things *not feeling well today*
 
Quote:

They can easily suffer from a midrange peak not too far from what sometimes plagues the T50RP, ime. I feel it's dealt with best by trying to maximize bass, yet oddly it seemed the ATH-2 frame had more of an issue with this than my SFI-380's which was rather unexpected. Anyway, if you read impressions about the ATH-2 you'll quickly find comments about its midrange sounding "nasal." I believe this is what you're describing. There's never been much I could do about it, nor the splashy treble, but that's just me. I still think they sound excellent.

 

[vid]

The YHE-50 of 2013: $400.

 

[iQEM]

Local find .......

my silver fork T30's cry on jealousy see that T50v1...
ourfpshero, let me know if you dislike em...i'm gonna give you my best offer for those beauty old god ortho...
i'm so curious how different are these compare to T50v0 that available here on indonesia...

 

[vid]

 
..............................................why?
 
The guy sold them specifically as 'stereo headphones', too. (Nope, I can't solder, but it might be a good time to start...)

 

[wualta]

Quote:

 
..............................................why?
 
The guy sold them specifically as 'stereo headphones', too. (Nope, I can't solder, but it might be a good time to start...)

[points at plug, has seizure] OMG LOLZ. Tee hee. [George Takei] Ohhhh my. [/Takei] At least, if no other skullduggery has been performed on this HP-50S, it really is a stereo headphone, just with the wrong plug. So the soldering necessary should be minimal. Let us know how this story turns out.

 

[Armaegis]

That reminds me of the time I bought a used Grado for cheap because the owner said the sound wasn't working properly. When it arrived, it was because he was using a mono 1/4 to 1/8" adapter 

 

[roBernd]

jup... I can't even tell what that dude was thinking while soldering...

 

[khbaur330162]

edit