[mrspeakers]

Quote:

I got dryer sheet today, tried it with 2 then 4 layer, as i expected: not much different from transpore. I know nobody tell their secret by nameing their product but there must be good reasons LFF use dryer sheet. I will experiment later with 6, 8 layers and different combination cotton, bass vent ...

I don't believe he does use a dryer sheet.  Unless I missed something this was a suggestion he made as a replacement felt for the driver because he felt it looked right, but I don't think he's ever written that he actually used or recommends it.  Of course, if he has tried it and said so, please correct me.  
 
For many reasons, I think this particular suggestion should quickly become an evolutionary dead end.  The fabric is far too inconsistent to get any match between channels, and who knows what the chemicals will do if you don't run it through the dryer first.  After all, there meant to come off the fabric, and they are not meant for vapor deposition on a polymer driver.  Not sure of the chemistry, but at best it can't improve anything.  And if you do use them in a dryer first the fabric is left really too open to be useful, and even less uniform.
 
I strongly suggest this is not a material to use.
 

 

[hans030390]

Quote:

Glad you enjoy it!

I stated long ago that I enjoyed it before trying out some of my own mods and have advocated your mods to quite a few people previously. But, yes, thanks for your hard work!
 

 

[SobbingWallet]

Quote:

I don't believe he does use a dryer sheet.  Unless I missed something this was a suggestion he made as a replacement felt for the driver because he felt it looked right, but I don't think he's ever written that he actually used or recommends it.  Of course, if he has tried it and said so, please correct me.  
 
For many reasons, I think this particular suggestion should quickly become an evolutionary dead end.  The fabric is far too inconsistent to get any match between channels, and who knows what the chemicals will do if you don't run it through the dryer first.  After all, there meant to come off the fabric, and they are not meant for vapor deposition on a polymer driver.  Not sure of the chemistry, but at best it can't improve anything.  And if you do use them in a dryer first the fabric is left really too open to be useful, and even less uniform.
 
I strongly suggest this is not a material to use.
 

 
Before I even heard the name "Cotton Dryers," I wondered about using something like a white undershirt (the same night I wondered about honey combs).  It's probably a nonsense idea, since I thought of it when I was halfway asleep and delirious, but the name of LFF's other headphones always reminded me of that more of that than dryer sheets (in the sense of cotton being stretched out on a line to dry).
 
 

 

[proid]

Quote:

I don't believe he does use a dryer sheet.  Unless I missed something this was a suggestion he made as a replacement felt for the driver because he felt it looked right, but I don't think he's ever written that he actually used or recommends it.  Of course, if he has tried it and said so, please correct me.  
 
For many reasons, I think this particular suggestion should quickly become an evolutionary dead end.  The fabric is far too inconsistent to get any match between channels, and who knows what the chemicals will do if you don't run it through the dryer first.  After all, there meant to come off the fabric, and they are not meant for vapor deposition on a polymer driver.  Not sure of the chemistry, but at best it can't improve anything.  And if you do use them in a dryer first the fabric is left really too open to be useful, and even less uniform.
 
I strongly suggest this is not a material to use.
 

You can read about the CottonDryer here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/5280#post_7945742
http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/5325#post_7948677
To me, at least it sound on par with transpore so i'm fine with it.

 

[wje]

Quote:

i'm interested in some pics.  i have yet to recable mine.

I'll get some pictures up tomorrow of my Mogami-fed T50RPs.  Each cup was bored so that it could receive its own cable and the existing cable connector was cut out with a side-cutter.  I then found a black, rounded plastic plug to glue in place over the default hole for the 1/8" connector.  It's nearly hard to tell that these cans were once wired with a single cable connector.
 

 

[LFF]

Quote:

I don't believe he does use a dryer sheet.  Unless I missed something this was a suggestion he made as a replacement felt for the driver because he felt it looked right, but I don't think he's ever written that he actually used or recommends it.  Of course, if he has tried it and said so, please correct me.  
 
For many reasons, I think this particular suggestion should quickly become an evolutionary dead end.  The fabric is far too inconsistent to get any match between channels, and who knows what the chemicals will do if you don't run it through the dryer first.  After all, there meant to come off the fabric, and they are not meant for vapor deposition on a polymer driver.  Not sure of the chemistry, but at best it can't improve anything.  And if you do use them in a dryer first the fabric is left really too open to be useful, and even less uniform.
 
I strongly suggest this is not a material to use.
 

I respect Mr. Speaker's opinion that you not use this material due to them being less uniform.
 
However, if you removed the original felt by following another mod and didn't like the sound, I highly recommend you use at least two layers of dried dryer sheets to replace that felt.
 

 
Quote:

You can read about the CottonDryer here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/5280#post_7945742
http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/5325#post_7948677
To me, at least it sound on par with transpore so i'm fine with it.
 

Transpore is EPIC FAIL in my honest opinion. Stay away from it.
 
I know I haven't shared my mods but I promise you guys this much....I will not lead you astray nor suggest you use something which does not work or which has measured poorly or sounds bad. Of course, what sounds bad is relative but if you like natural sounding stuff or at least fun sounding stuff and dislike wacky sounding or flabby sounding headphones, then pay attention.

 
I have experimented with many options and continue to do so. I have spent considerable amounts of time and money in pads and an incredible list of materials to see how much I can improve on these. This includes comfort, looks as well as sound.
 
 

 

[Pars]

Quote:

I'll get some pictures up tomorrow of my Mogami-fed T50RPs.  Each cup was bored so that it could receive its own cable and the existing cable connector was cut out with a side-cutter.  I then found a black, rounded plastic plug to glue in place over the default hole for the 1/8" connector.  It's nearly hard to tell that these cans were once wired with a single cable connector.
 

Had you considered connectorizing these, similar to the LCD-2s? I'll look forward to your pics, as I was considering doing this to mine.
 

 

[proid]

Quote:

I respect Mr. Speaker's opinion that you not use this material due to them being less uniform.
 
However, if you removed the original felt by following another mod and didn't like the sound, I highly recommend you use at least two layers of dried dryer sheets to replace that felt.
 

 
Transpore is EPIC FAIL in my honest opinion. Stay away from it.
 
I know I haven't shared my mods but I promise you guys this much....I will not lead you astray nor suggest you use something which does not work or which has measured poorly or sounds bad. Of course, what sounds bad is relative but if you like natural sounding stuff or at least fun sounding stuff and dislike wacky sounding or flabby sounding headphones, then pay attention.

 
I have experimented with many options and continue to do so. I have spent considerable amounts of time and money in pads and an incredible list of materials to see how much I can improve on these. This includes comfort, looks as well as sound.
 
 

The first time, i used 2 layer dryer sheet on the left and transpore on the right, just a little different. I don't think transpore is bad, with normal config ( paxmate, plasticine, cotton ...), i prefer it to naked driver, stock white felt, craft felt.
P/s: I hope you won't need to experiment 10k times like Edison to defeat the O2 

 

[LFF]

Quote:

The first time, i used 2 layer dryer sheet on the left and transpore on the right, just a little different. I don't think transpore is bad, with normal config ( paxmate, plasticine, cotton ...), i prefer it to naked driver, stock white felt, craft felt.
P/s: I hope you won't need to experiment 10k times like Edison to defeat the O2 

To me there was a HUGE difference between transpore and dryer sheet. The ones I used were Bounce and they had already been through the dryer as well.

 

[proid]

Quote:

To me there was a HUGE difference between transpore and dryer sheet. The ones I used were Bounce and they had already been through the dryer as well.

I use bounce too, but it wasn't through dryer. Can i use hair dryer instead?

 

[LFF]

Quote:

I use bounce too, but it wasn't through dryer. Can i use hair dryer instead?

I would put it through the dryer for at least 45 minutes with clothes.

 

[CYoung234]

Quote:

Glad you enjoy it!

Another thank you for the RP2 840 mod. I just made a change to mine that I personally found quite beneficial. Originally, this was my configuration:
 

1. Plasticine inside surrounding the driver (mine is fairly heavy and tapers out to the edge)
2. Some Akasa on the larger areas of clay (make sure to not overdo it or the cup won't close) I did not do this on mine
3. Akasa on the entire back cup.  Fatmat between the Akasa and cup is optional.  (I like the idea of the paintable dampening goo, never heard of it before but may give it a test) - I used original Dynamat (no foil face) and Akasa on mine. I originally covered the center pillar with Akasa, but removed it. Impressions below.
4. Some Akasa around the driver on the ear side out to the edge of the cup (mine also have original Dynamat under the Akasa)
5. Felt over ear-side driver removed - Yes
6. 6-7 cotton balls teased apart and spread evenly inside the cup - Yes, but only 3 cotton balls for each cup.
7. Vent 80% closed - Yes
8. No felt on the inside of the driver - Yes
9. Reflex dot of electrical tape in the center square (could try more tape, I wouldn't do over 33% though).  I know this would boost highs, but I'm not sure how much it will reduce bass. Originally, mine had this, but I took the reflex dot off the center square and instead covered the 4 corner squares.

1. Hard 5mm risers under the back of the 840 pad (anything will do, and can do a bit more than 5, too) - Yes

 
The overall result is a somewhat brighter sound that I prefer - the HF extension is better, string instruments sound more natural. I believe that uncovering the pillar and not having the reflex dot on the center square improves imaging. These actually image much better than they did before. I find that the low end is not diminished much either. The overall balance for me is improved. Keep in mind that I am 57 years old and have some high frequency hearing loss from too many years playing in symphony orchestras and playing with power tools at my day job ... These are NOT as bright as my AKG K501's though, which is good for non-classical stuff particularly.
 

 

[wje]

Quote:

Had you considered connectorizing these, similar to the LCD-2s? I'll look forward to your pics, as I was considering doing this to mine.
 

No, actually, I didn't.  I knew I'd be happy with the Mogami cable that I had selected and wouldn't have the desire to swap cables.  However, with my HifiMAN headphones, that's a whole 'nother story.
 
 

 

[BGRoberts]

+1 on the neat job Wayne does.
The recable job he did on mine looks "factory".


 
Quote:

I'll get some pictures up tomorrow of my Mogami-fed T50RPs.  Each cup was bored so that it could receive its own cable and the existing cable connector was cut out with a side-cutter.  I then found a black, rounded plastic plug to glue in place over the default hole for the 1/8" connector.  It's nearly hard to tell that these cans were once wired with a single cable connector.
 

 

 

[wje]

Hey guys ... just a quick tip.  In the F.S. section, there's a pair of modded T50RPs with the Shure 840 pads for only $100 + shipping.  No international sales - only state side.  I'm not affiliated with the seller, but just passing the news along.  Go and get 'em.