Jan 17, 2020 at 3:40 PM Post #11,342 of 11,346
I received today a T50RP.
I always wanted to have a planar and Amazon had one at 89€
I should receive the Shure 1540 ear pads tomorrow (and some mad dogs knock off from China in a month or so).
So far I love the details, totally another thing compared to my Sennheiser HD600, but I couldn't pick neither one as THE best, they are differently very good.
 
Jan 17, 2020 at 4:19 PM Post #11,343 of 11,346
I received today a T50RP.
I always wanted to have a planar and Amazon had one at 89€
I should receive the Shure 1540 ear pads tomorrow (and some mad dogs knock off from China in a month or so).
So far I love the details, totally another thing compared to my Sennheiser HD600, but I couldn't pick neither one as THE best, they are differently very good.

well said mate, I feel the same way about those two headphones. neither is better. they are just good in different ways. I often find that planar in general just has this smooth sound to it that dynamic can not replicate. my current favorite headphones though are HD58X
 
Jan 17, 2020 at 5:08 PM Post #11,344 of 11,346
well said mate, I feel the same way about those two headphones. neither is better. they are just good in different ways. I often find that planar in general just has this smooth sound to it that dynamic can not replicate. my current favorite headphones though are HD58X
the HD58X looks pretty interesting, and that 160$ price!
But I already had one Sennheiser, so I wanted to try a planar (but I am very interested in the AKG712 too as I'd like to have a pair of headphones with great soundstage, but the sub 100€ tag price was too appetizing to resist it and I'm already very happy with it even before any modification!)

edit: I have put the Shure pads on, and they are comfier than the stock ones, but the sound signature is less 'in your face, noticeably on the treble part.
I missed the more aggressive sound signature, that harshness with astounding details thrown at your face, so I played with the equalizer on my sony nw-a55 : I augmented x1 the bass, 3x the mediums, and 2x the treble and now I have something that sounds a little more like the stock pads without the occasional ear piercing trebbles.
I like it as my fun headphones, I will try the Chinese mad dogs knock off version in a month when they arrive.

Edit 2: Just found a track I can't stand with the t50rp, Blue Jay Way. It makes like a depression in the left ear, as if it was broken. The Sennheiser hd600 is more adapted to that sort of channels separation, more evenly 'atmospheric'.
For now I prefer classical and jazz with the hd600, and rock, pop and electronic music with the Fostex.
 
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Apr 14, 2020 at 5:03 AM Post #11,345 of 11,346
Just got into this game so need to clarify a few things....

Interested in MagickMan's mod (The non-destructive and reversible bits only - LOL). I have some ideas but alas all are conjectures - this was one of the few that was properly measured.

The link: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/jus...t50rps-today-wow.452404/page-406#post-8114313

Some observations and queries:

1. So in the final mod, the driver vent holes refer to the yellow bits in the photos?

2. Mass loading of the front panel is a must.

3. Regarding the mod in the cup, I want to ask regarding the aim of this. I'm not sure I understand his steps. So he used 2 layers of foam sheets (I guess 4-5mm) to line the bottom then fill the cup with clay. The purpose here is to mass load the cup without adding too much weight? It seems the Mayflower 1 mod for the cup is to deflect sounds - I have the idea of using a base layer of sticky acoustic foam then lay some cut dashboard anti-slip mat material on top instead of doing the fiddly "ladder" stuff. It seems the anti-slip mat texture may be good at breaking up sound waves rather then reflecting it back straight. Not sure if I got the concept right here...

4. Vent or partially vent - I'll probably think of some reversible methods to try out...

5. The round felt her put in the middle - that is to reduce treble reflection ? Look like a piece of chair leg felt.

6. Instead of cotton, I'll probably try to use polyester fill (like used for speaker cabinet). Just seems easier to control.

7. It seems the "tuning" target of this headphone is towards the LCD-2 type of sound. Any opnion of tuning it towards the harman curve? (Can anyone point me to the link of anyone who has done this and measured it?)

Thanks.
 
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May 31, 2024 at 4:51 AM Post #11,346 of 11,346


1. Mass load the backs of the baffles with plasticine (modeling clay) - to reduce resonance. You may also try Blue Tack or similar materials but plasticine seems to be the most highly recommended and is what I used with great results. You can get plasticine at art supply stores or ebay and Newplast from Amazon <dot> co.uk. Be sure to Not fill the small hole located at the top left side of the driver frame --> when the rear of the driver/baffle is oriented with the solder connections at the bottom, closest to your sitting/viewing position. Thanks to many head-fi'ers for this mod and others, below, including Smeggy, wualta, Sachu, boilermakerfan, mrspeakers, joelpearce, leeperry, dBel84, Kabeer, rhythmdevils, and several others.
I just filled up all the holes on the frame of my Mk3 driver with plasticine. There are 18 separate holes. I'm not sure which hole NOT to fill is referencd here. A hole in the baffle? Or one of the ones in the frame on the driver itself. Can anyone clarify please and why not to fill this hole. It looks to go nowhere. Thx
 

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