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Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW! - Page 356

post #5326 of 10624

Where do you guys get your O2 boards made? Or does someone have on I can buy off of them at cost? 

 

I'd like to build one before I start my EHHA Rev A project.

post #5327 of 10624

My brother-in-law found them for sale somewhere... it was JDS labs.  They are reasonably cheap, too.

 

They are now at his house, waiting to be turned into O2 amps.

post #5328 of 10624
Quote:
Originally Posted by joelpearce View Post

Maybe we've accidentally stumbled over the big Paradox mod secret.  Quick, we need someone to do systematic tests with different breakfast cereals.  (would all-bran keep the bass moving?)



I would think it would make it mushy and too soft.

post #5329 of 10624

Yep you were right, just ordered the board ;)

 

Thank you!

post #5330 of 10624

That should work???

 

2072940951_aa9f027527.jpg
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by LFF View Post



I would think it would make it mushy and too soft.



 

post #5331 of 10624
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twinster View Post

That should work???

 

2072940951_aa9f027527.jpg
 



 

Yup! That's the stuff! It will give you a mushy, soft bottom end with some sweetness added to the top layer.

 

I'm craving mini-wheats now.....  :-(
 

 

post #5332 of 10624

Well, I just ordered the parts for the O2, along with the board a bit earlier.  Lets see if its really all you guys say it is.  I'll do a comparison against my Bijou, PIMETA V2, CMoy, Total BitHead, and (if I get done it time) the EHHA Rev A sometime maybe.

post #5333 of 10624

Is there a place you can order all the pieces together for the O2 amp?

 

(Sorry for OT)

post #5334 of 10624

Mouser should have all the parts for the board, except I think the volume pots are out of stock for the time being. The case you can get at box-enclosures.com and then the front panels you can DIY or wait until JDSlabs has them in stock. You can probably find the batteries cheaper on eBay. 

post #5335 of 10624
Quote:
Originally Posted by Questhate View Post

Mouser should have all the parts for the board, except I think the volume pots are out of stock for the time being. The case you can get at box-enclosures.com and then the front panels you can DIY or wait until JDSlabs has them in stock. You can probably find the batteries cheaper on eBay. 

Mouser, a member here?
post #5336 of 10624
Quote:
Originally Posted by everlong View Post


Mouser, a member here?

 

Oh boy...

 

 

Mouser is an electronics parts dealer online at Mouser.com 

 

Please go read on NwAvGuy's website, there is a big Bill of Materials there you can paste right into Mouser.com when you make an account and you can order it directly. 

 

EDIT: But the PCB you'll have to get from JDS Labs.

 


 

 

post #5337 of 10624

BMF: the father of ingenuity. :)
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Here's a couple of tips that will prevent you from reaching for the Aleve:

 

1. Avoid stripped cup threads when making many comparative mods. You know, open...close...open...close...ad infinitum. Eventually those plastic threads strip out. Then, what's to do?

 

I found some $45 PlastiFix on Amazon but, c'mon!  The seed of this idea belongs to symphonic who suggested a "belt" around the cups instead of using the screws while modding. Instead, use rubber bands. You know those blue produce rubber bands that are about 1 cm wide? Use 2 per cup. Works great.

 

If you've already stripped the cup threads like I have on some of 3 sets, get some of those plastic bag wire ties at the grocery store. Cut away the excess plastic coating on both sides. Cut a length twice the depth of the screw holes. Bend it in half like a horseshoe and hang on the edge of the thread compartment; one half inside the receiver thread compartment and one half hanging outside. Works great.

 

2. For those stripped out headband hanger threads, cut a piece of the plastic bag wire tie twice the depth of the receiver threads. Leave the plastic coating in place. Bend it in half and hang over the lip of the receiver thread compartment, as above. It's just the right size to fit into the other connecting piece attached to the headband hanger. Push it together and screw it down. Works great. 

 

No more headache.



 

post #5338 of 10624

Some thoughts on the CottonDryers..

 

Their voicing reminds me of the the RE262 in a few ways.. but the similarities are very general though.  Aside from a slightly mid-forward sound and some tonal characteristics in places, they occupy different places, sonically.

 

What the CD is though.. is a cross between the RE262 & HD650.. on steroids.. the finest steroids Barry Bonds could buy.  It's not as liquid, colored, or warm as the RE262.. it's (relatively) more accurate from end to end.  Bass is faster, goes deeper, has more impact, and has much better presence.  Mids are crisper, more detailed (basshead.gif), cleaner, and neutral.  The CD's soundstage isn't as wide as it is on the RE262, but it's every bit as deep, and the CD's enjoy a little better imaging, front-to-back.  I haven't had an extensive amount of time with the HD650s but the CDs have that kind of immersive, hypnotic, well balanced, bass presence.. albeit several times more technically superior & effortless.

 

I'm hearing a slight spike somewhere in the RE262's midrange that causes (male) some vocals to sound slightly honky at times.. not so with the CDs.  The CDs are certainly colored, mainly in the bass area, but not to the extent the RE262s are.  I've always been impressed with the incredibly articulate nature of the RE262's midrange coloration though I find them too smooth & liquid for some heavier, grittier genres (rock, metal).  The CDs on the other hand, while maintaining an impeccable smoothness to them, don't suffer from the same problem.. Listening to Tool's Lateralus is an aural experience with the CDs.  Incredibly immersive.  Adam Jones' guitars just punch you in the face with their crispness, but the CDs take some of that edge off with a touch of smoothness & the T50RPs inherently gorgeous mids never allow them to get harsh or uncontrolled.  Just how effortless these sound is something else

 

The treble on the CDs really impressed me too.. it's smooth, but not as smooth or rolled off as on the RE262 or the HD650.. it has much more sparkle and detail retrieval is easier while sitting a quarter step behind the mids.

 

I think the CottonDryers are a fantastic alternative to those who want to hear LFF's tweak the pinnacle-of-neutrality Paradox into a slightly colored, fun (but very controlled) phone that's every bit as versatile as the Paradox.  It isn't as accurate or analytical as the Paradox.. but it's not tuned to be so.. but you'll still get to enjoy all the technical muscle of the T50RP.


Edited by FlySweep - 12/6/11 at 4:09pm
post #5339 of 10624

Quote:

Originally Posted by LFF View Post

I tried it with some honeycomb plastic things and honeycomb cardboard.

Feel free to try it and let me know what you think....beerchug.gif


Well, what did you think of it?

 

I'm just trying to think of material or objects other than teased cotton balls that might work well in the cups, either in combination with the cotton or removing cotton from the picture entirely. Not that I am dissatisfied with my current T50RP setup, but I am curious to see where else I might be able to take them! (BTW, this is a question I'm directing at everyone)

 

post #5340 of 10624

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlySweep View Post

Some thoughts on the CottonDryers...

 

Nice impressions! Would I be incorrect in guessing that this particular mod uses cotton wool in the cups and dryer sheets behind the drivers? Wondering what else might be used in the mod and how they differ from the Paradox. I don't expect an answer for that. wink.gif

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