Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
Mar 7, 2015 at 5:17 AM Post #11,041 of 11,345
Just finished off my new babies....after having my all-black pair for a year now, my friend wants them...
So I thought I'd go for the other end of the color spectrum :wink:


 
 
Need to re-do a bit of sanding/touch up paint work, as I was too keen to get them finished and nicked them in a couple of places during cable install...
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Mar 7, 2015 at 8:45 AM Post #11,042 of 11,345
Nice work! Did you find any difference in SQ between T20RP and T50RP?
 
Mar 7, 2015 at 9:32 AM Post #11,043 of 11,345
Nice work! Did you find any difference in SQ between T20RP and T50RP?


After modding internally, nope. Front side vents sealed except 1 hole in stock vent and old cable route left open.
Once I tore off the rubber headband, I put a bit more clamp on the stock band to get the ear clamp just right....still dialing in on this-and-that on day 2 or so... Patience is a virtue with waiting for paint to fully dry though !
 
Mar 10, 2015 at 4:53 AM Post #11,044 of 11,345
Anyone ran their Fostex T50-RP off the HRT MicroStreamer ? Bass control/dynamics OK, or a bit lacking ?
On paper it is low power, but I think Mike Mercer said it powered a few planar cans surprisingly well...
 

 
Mar 20, 2015 at 4:01 AM Post #11,045 of 11,345
Can anyone recommended a generic bash case for transporting my Fostex...I just use my old HFM felt bag... but its a pain, and no impact protection from stuff in my bag...
 
Mar 23, 2015 at 5:42 PM Post #11,046 of 11,345
I am standing on the shoulders of giants...everything I am doing is based on the awesome work documented in this thread and the other one...nothing amazing or new here, just the ghost of Smeggy hanging about with the collective consciousness of the T50rp modding threads...


I echo these sentiments. Thanks everyone. Here is my third set of mods...


Used vinyl decal to block all but one vent. Other openings sealed

Used cosmetic sponges (well rinsed and dried), attached with scrapbooking tape to line the cup. Used adhesive felt on other exposed areas.
Mis-aligned on one of the six holes :mad: but left the 10mm treble reflector underneath the felt. Used a small amount of layered cotton.
Added a clay "gasket" to seal the cups when screwed back.

This produced more bass and sub-bass, but with a small loss in acoustic bass speed and tautness. A brighter overall sound, with clear mids and highs. Great separation and soundstage. Very happy with these improvements. I no longer feel I have to turn up the volume to hear the bass.


Made a new cable using marine rope and whipping cord.
 
Mar 27, 2015 at 8:38 AM Post #11,048 of 11,345
Been busy at work lately, but have managed to keep some time in the workshop going...
 
I have managed to finally tweak a stock pair to my liking. Final configuration is:
 
Alpha Pads
Stiffened craft felt with no holes punched over the back of the driver
Two balls of cotton teased out and placed in the wells of the cups
Dynamat in the wells of the cups, and over the vents and the blank spot above the arm hangar in the cup.
Akasa Paxmate over that
Silverstone ladderring over the Akasa
Putty in the baffle and sealing the baffles to the cups
A 1/8 th inch hole drilled in below where the vents were
 
To round out that home-made, Darth Vader look I used acetone to remove all printing on the cups.
 

 
Fun experiments I did along the way before coming to that configuration:
 
MDF square instead of black felt over the back of the driver (killed the bass completely)
MDF square with lots of random little holes drilled in it instead of black felt over the driver (loads of bass, might revisit that one later and try it again in conjunction with different cup-filling materials)
The above MDF square with no holes over the back of the driver and an MDF square with holes drilled over the front of the driver....think primitive fazor (still bassless...fazor made no difference)
Small square of adhesive felt with a hole punched in the middle stuck onto the white felt over the back of the driver (...meh...)
 
I also did these in Rosewood for an Instagram friend who asked to do the assembly himself (thanks for the cable @cCasper TFG):
 

 
And these:
 

 
Mar 27, 2015 at 8:48 AM Post #11,049 of 11,345
  Been busy at work lately, but have managed to keep some time in the workshop going...
 
I have managed to finally tweak a stock pair to my liking. Final configuration is:
 
Alpha Pads
Stiffened craft felt with no holes punched over the back of the driver
Two balls of cotton teased out and placed in the wells of the cups
Dynamat in the wells of the cups, and over the vents and the blank spot above the arm hangar in the cup.
Akasa Paxmate over that
Silverstone ladderring over the Akasa
Putty in the baffle and sealing the baffles to the cups
A 1/8 th inch hole drilled in below where the vents were
 
To round out that home-made, Darth Vader look I used acetone to remove all printing on the cups.
 
Fun experiments I did along the way before coming to that configuration:
 
MDF square instead of black felt over the back of the driver (killed the bass completely)
MDF square with lots of random little holes drilled in it instead of black felt over the driver (loads of bass, might revisit that one later and try it again in conjunction with different cup-filling materials)
The above MDF square with no holes over the back of the driver and an MDF square with holes drilled over the front of the driver....think primitive fazor (still bassless...fazor made no difference)
Small square of adhesive felt with a hole punched in the middle stuck onto the white felt over the back of the driver (...meh...)
 
I also did these in Rosewood for an Instagram friend who asked to do the assembly himself (thanks for the cable @cCasper TFG):
 
 
And these:
 

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Apr 3, 2015 at 11:46 PM Post #11,051 of 11,345
And what happens when one of those elastics inevitably breaks? Easy to fix/replace?
 
Apr 4, 2015 at 1:20 AM Post #11,053 of 11,345
24 posts and a planar retail can...so what's your old profile handle.... ?
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