[Focker]

Quote:

and those graphs also show the difference between a grado and sennheiser, and the challenge of turning a grado into a more natural sounding headphone design. ALot of folks like the grados becuause they are engaging, fun, etc but they are very colored and unatural, as the graphs always show. the senns are much more linear and are nice sounds, but they do not take a listener on as deep or intimate a ride as a grado design can. the magnum is an attempt to blend these two imo, and the task of the 'modder' or 'builder' of the custom magnum is to allow this to happen while at the same time doing whatever possible to reduce the colorations of the grado (and magnum) drivers. this can be done only with the cup design and particular driver mating to that particular cup, since it's the only real variable besides the cable in that simple design.

It seems to me that the frequency response graph is relied upon way too heavily at head-fi. The FR graph is quantitative, not qualititative. It's a helpful tool to determine if the recording is heard at equal volume across the frequency response. Three qualities I like in a headphone - strong imaging, detail/resolution, and an "airy-ness" - aren't depicted on a FR graph. Beyond that, our hearing isn't "flat" to begin with, and hearing varies from person to person. I'm not saying it's not a reliable tool, cause it is. But it's only one part of the whole picture in terms of why people choose the headphones they do. If you're top goal is a headphone that is flat and neutral in terms of the amplitude that each frequency is reproduced, then that's what you should focus on. But there are lots of other more qualitiative aspects of headphones that appeal to us, and I'm one of them.
 

 

[bbophead]

Quote:

and those graphs also show the difference between a grado and sennheiser, and the challenge of turning a grado into a more natural sounding headphone design. ALot of folks like the grados becuause they are engaging, fun, etc but they are very colored and unatural, as the graphs always show. the senns are much more linear and are nice sounds, but they do not take a listener on as deep or intimate a ride as a grado design can. the magnum is an attempt to blend these two imo, and the task of the 'modder' or 'builder' of the custom magnum is to allow this to happen while at the same time doing whatever possible to reduce the colorations of the grado (and magnum) drivers. this can be done only with the cup design and particular driver mating to that particular cup, since it's the only real variable besides the cable in that simple design.

Since this IS the Grado fan site, given that the Senn is" more linear, are nice sounds, more natural", I don't think I want to "blend" anything.  I'll just take a Grado straight up, thank you.

 
 

 

[colgatetotal]

Quote:

and those graphs also show the difference between a grado and sennheiser, and the challenge of turning a grado into a more natural sounding headphone design. ALot of folks like the grados becuause they are engaging, fun, etc but they are very colored and unatural, as the graphs always show. the senns are much more linear and are nice sounds, but they do not take a listener on as deep or intimate a ride as a grado design can. the magnum is an attempt to blend these two imo, and the task of the 'modder' or 'builder' of the custom magnum is to allow this to happen while at the same time doing whatever possible to reduce the colorations of the grado (and magnum) drivers. this can be done only with the cup design and particular driver mating to that particular cup, since it's the only real variable besides the cable in that simple design.

The most interesting part is that the plastic Grados have the least THD. (Look at the 60i and 225i graphs) I guess what we're seeing is the bass coloration and resonance from the cups. Plastic doesn't color the bass much, but then again, plastic doesn't sound as engaging. Still, when you consider Symphones' claim that aluminum doesn't color the sound at all...
 
Focker: No worries, just wanted to play devil's advocate. 

 

[thelostMIDrange]

colgate, you are a fountain of interesting insights. the plastic must color the rest of the sound in some way though. I agree, the cup influences all this and also agree that the aluminum, no matter what treatment or coating it has, is far from 'inert'. I had to try a dozen woods for the same reason, namely they all had serious issues as a sound chamber and each introduced it's own colors and affects on the driver, mahogany as much or more than the others. And of course, that's the rs grado sound.

 

[MrAwesome]

PS500 vs RS1i?
 
what are the pros and cons of each one? Which one is worth the price?

 

[Posam]

Quote:

PS500 vs RS1i?
 
what are the pros and cons of each one? Which one is worth the price?

PS500 is supposed to be a bit warmer.
 
 

 

[vaed]

For long-timers here, how often does the SR-325i seem to come up on the headphone sale forum? Right now I'm going to try being satisfied with my SR-60i's, as they sound beautiful as ever, but I know that there's going to be a point where I hit the 325i's, and I was wondering if I should jump on a good deal when I see it, or if I could afford to wait for a while. And on that point,  you guys generally buy your higher-end grades used, or new? 
 

 

[WorldsEndWombat]

Quote:

For long-timers here, how often does the SR-325i seem to come up on the headphone sale forum?
 

roughly once in a fortnight... buy good conditioned 2nd-hand, save the burn-in time

they would last for decades if well taken good care of
 

 

[Posam]

I've been wondering this and well, do I need to ever do anything to take care of the wood on my RS1i such as polish them or something like that?

 

[Gwarmi]

Quote:

I've been wondering this and well, do I need to ever do anything to take care of the wood on my RS1i such as polish them or something like that?

 I was wondering whether the same wood treatment finish that comes with the LCD2/3 would suit the RS1.

 

[MrAwesome]

maybe use a damp of Pledge on a soft cloth or miro-fiber? 

 

[eltocliousus]

What do the bowl pads change in terms of sonics on the SR60s? And where do I buy these mysterious things in the UK?
I found these, however it doesn't say it's suitable for SR60s.

 

[Mr.Sneis]

Quote:

I've been wondering this and well, do I need to ever do anything to take care of the wood on my RS1i such as polish them or something like that?

My Home Depot carries it - Howard's Wax-n-Feed.  It is supposed to be the same as what comes with the LCD-2/3,  I warn you, it's addictive to polish the crap out of anything wood with this stuff.  It smells good and will make your Grados pop!
 
When you first apply it it will make the finish very shiny but leave it overnight any it'll soak in and be more natural looking.

 

[Posam]

Quote:

My Home Depot carries it - Howard's Wax-n-Feed.  It is supposed to be the same as what comes with the LCD-2/3,  I warn you, it's addictive to polish the crap out of anything wood with this stuff.  It smells good and will make your Grados pop!
 
When you first apply it it will make the finish very shiny but leave it overnight any it'll soak in and be more natural looking.

 
How often would I need to apply this and is this to maintain the finish and prevent cracking and or swelling of the woods etc from humidity or just to make it shiny? 

 

[Mr.Sneis]

To be completely honest?  Never.
 
I've owned a ton of RS-1's and 1i's in my day of varying ages and use.  I live in Arizona arguably a very dry climate.  Never have I had wood that cracked or discolored in a way that I disliked in any of these woody Grados.
 
That said, there's something about the act of polishing and the look that makes the Feed-n-Wax a cool product - think of it like this.  If you wash your car regularly and take care of it you'll probably never need to wax it.  I've known people who don't believe in wax and their cars still look great after many years.  As a car-washing nut I like the process of waxing my car and the post-wax feeling and smell.  You mentally get some sort of re-assurance that you are actively protecting your car's finish which is nice but truly not necessary.
 
I'd say it's the same deal here.