[elira]

Wow, needing to use glue to hold it together? That sounds like it's permanently damaged to me.

Grado headbands/headphones are not made to be taken apart. But everything is glued, so as long as you don’t break anything you can glue it back together.

 

[ksorota]

Just going to ask...why not.

I have the Hemps and really love them, but need to do something about the cable.

My plan is to cut the cable an inch or so below the cups and push the end of the cable into the cups, then drill out the cable hole large enough to press in either an HD800 or DCA socket. Once the hole is drilled out, pull the cable end back out of the cup and attached to the positive and neg. terminals. Test than apply some glue to the connector before refitting into the housing.

I have removed a bunch of the glue from the cups already, but I think I am at the point of either adding heat (not sure how the wood cups take to it) or prying...prying is never good.

The method I propose will work in the short term, not sure about long term durability of not have a locking nut on the backside of the connector. I imagine a good wood glue, or epoxy should hold it for a good long time. The hole will only barely be large enough for the connector, so I am going to rely on pressure also holding it into place.

Question is, what am I missing as a potential hazard? I assume that as long as I keep the pigtail long enough I can always fall back on the beautifulaudio convert kit.

I have tested pushing the cable into the house, seems like I can easily get an inch worth in...getting it back out should not be too troublesome with the larger hold.

Biggest threat I can see is catching the cable in the cup with the tool and pulling off the contact patch from the driver...and maybe getting some shavings into the cup housing.

 

[elira]

Just going to ask...why not.

I have the Hemps and really love them, but need to do something about the cable.

My plan is to cut the cable an inch or so below the cups and push the end of the cable into the cups, then drill out the cable hole large enough to press in either an HD800 or DCA socket. Once the hole is drilled out, pull the cable end back out of the cup and attached to the positive and neg. terminals. Test than apply some glue to the connector before refitting into the housing.

I have removed a bunch of the glue from the cups already, but I think I am at the point of either adding heat (not sure how the wood cups take to it) or prying...prying is never good.

The method I propose will work in the short term, not sure about long term durability of not have a locking nut on the backside of the connector. I imagine a good wood glue, or epoxy should hold it for a good long time. The hole will only barely be large enough for the connector, so I am going to rely on pressure also holding it into place.

Question is, what am I missing as a potential hazard? I assume that as long as I keep the pigtail long enough I can always fall back on the beautifulaudio convert kit.

I have tested pushing the cable into the house, seems like I can easily get an inch worth in...getting it back out should not be too troublesome with the larger hold.

Biggest threat I can see is catching the cable in the cup with the tool and pulling off the contact patch from the driver...and maybe getting some shavings into the cup housing.

The main issue I see is wood dust, it might get to the driver and cause issues.

 

[ruhenheiM]

Just going to ask...why not.

I have the Hemps and really love them, but need to do something about the cable.

My plan is to cut the cable an inch or so below the cups and push the end of the cable into the cups, then drill out the cable hole large enough to press in either an HD800 or DCA socket. Once the hole is drilled out, pull the cable end back out of the cup and attached to the positive and neg. terminals. Test than apply some glue to the connector before refitting into the housing.

I have removed a bunch of the glue from the cups already, but I think I am at the point of either adding heat (not sure how the wood cups take to it) or prying...prying is never good.

The method I propose will work in the short term, not sure about long term durability of not have a locking nut on the backside of the connector. I imagine a good wood glue, or epoxy should hold it for a good long time. The hole will only barely be large enough for the connector, so I am going to rely on pressure also holding it into place.

Question is, what am I missing as a potential hazard? I assume that as long as I keep the pigtail long enough I can always fall back on the beautifulaudio convert kit.

I have tested pushing the cable into the house, seems like I can easily get an inch worth in...getting it back out should not be too troublesome with the larger hold.

Biggest threat I can see is catching the cable in the cup with the tool and pulling off the contact patch from the driver...and maybe getting some shavings into the cup housing.

possibility of you miscalculated between the cable+socket and space inside the cup, the drilling part also a bit scary since you have to be at least precise and since they using wood for outer cup and sleeve,i have no idea how close those two part from the cable hole and possibility of some residue from the drilling part probably stuck at the felt of the driver. other than that you're good i guess

 

[donlin]

Just going to ask...why not.

I have the Hemps and really love them, but need to do something about the cable.

My plan is to cut the cable an inch or so below the cups and push the end of the cable into the cups, then drill out the cable hole large enough to press in either an HD800 or DCA socket. Once the hole is drilled out, pull the cable end back out of the cup and attached to the positive and neg. terminals. Test than apply some glue to the connector before refitting into the housing.

I have removed a bunch of the glue from the cups already, but I think I am at the point of either adding heat (not sure how the wood cups take to it) or prying...prying is never good.

The method I propose will work in the short term, not sure about long term durability of not have a locking nut on the backside of the connector. I imagine a good wood glue, or epoxy should hold it for a good long time. The hole will only barely be large enough for the connector, so I am going to rely on pressure also holding it into place.

Question is, what am I missing as a potential hazard? I assume that as long as I keep the pigtail long enough I can always fall back on the beautifulaudio convert kit.

I have tested pushing the cable into the house, seems like I can easily get an inch worth in...getting it back out should not be too troublesome with the larger hold.

Biggest threat I can see is catching the cable in the cup with the tool and pulling off the contact patch from the driver...and maybe getting some shavings into the cup housing.

It seems like there are countless ways this could go wrong unless you've done it several times before.

 

[ksorota]

Looks to be a solid 2 cm's between the current hole and foam...think I might use a hand auger tool!

Ill let you know how it works out once the parts arrive.

 

[elvergun]

Just going to ask...why not.

I have the Hemps and really love them, but need to do something about the cable.

My plan is to cut the cable an inch or so below the cups and push the end of the cable into the cups, then drill out the cable hole large enough to press in either an HD800 or DCA socket. Once the hole is drilled out, pull the cable end back out of the cup and attached to the positive and neg. terminals. Test than apply some glue to the connector before refitting into the housing.

I have removed a bunch of the glue from the cups already, but I think I am at the point of either adding heat (not sure how the wood cups take to it) or prying...prying is never good.

The method I propose will work in the short term, not sure about long term durability of not have a locking nut on the backside of the connector. I imagine a good wood glue, or epoxy should hold it for a good long time. The hole will only barely be large enough for the connector, so I am going to rely on pressure also holding it into place.

Question is, what am I missing as a potential hazard? I assume that as long as I keep the pigtail long enough I can always fall back on the beautifulaudio convert kit.

I have tested pushing the cable into the house, seems like I can easily get an inch worth in...getting it back out should not be too troublesome with the larger hold.

Biggest threat I can see is catching the cable in the cup with the tool and pulling off the contact patch from the driver...and maybe getting some shavings into the cup housing.

I think you are crazy for even thinking about trying this...

...but if you end up pulling it off, you will be my hero.

 

[eeagle]

All the hemp talk made me place an order....I still love my original SR60's and have other Grado's, love the look and simplicity and the sound never disappoints.

 

[ksorota]

I haven’t fully committed, but the connectors are on their way and I’m usually pretty bad at turning back from mod ideas! In this case think it’s worth the small risk!

These are relatively new to me, but i can’t get over how good they sound out of the GLMK2 and liquid platinum. They remind me of an HD600 but with more synergy with live recordings! A little more intense at times, but also just a fun listen.

 

[Joaquin Dinero]

So am I the only one who thinks Grado cables are perfectly fine and not worth mangling a beautiful pair of headphones over ?

 

[donlin]

So am I the only one who thinks Grado cables are perfectly fine and not worth mangling a beautiful pair of headphones over ?

No you are not the only one. They are fine with me. I couldn’t imagine ruining a perfectly good headphone.

 

[elira]

So am I the only one who thinks Grado cables are perfectly fine and not worth mangling a beautiful pair of headphones over ?

I like Grado cables a lot. The only horrible cable I've seen in a Grado was the one in the HF-3.

 

[Gippy]

I'd like to see how the gs2000e and 3000e compare in this regard (i.e. wondering if a 2000 can become a 3000 with the proper EQ).

The GS2000e's driver can't do sub-bass. The GS3000e can but needs EQ to reach down. The GS3000e can also slam mid-bass harder due to the cocobolo. Also the GS2000e has significant treble grain that can't be EQ'd out. I noted all this in my comparison review.

Surprising how little headband padding is on Grado's wooden flagship, embarrassing to be honest

You're the only person I know who has complained about the GS3000e headband. It's even wider than Grado's typical headbands. I feel it's fine, considering how light it is.

I have the Hemps and really love them, but need to do something about the cable. My plan is to cut the cable an inch or so below the cups and push the end of the cable into the cups, then drill out the cable hole large enough to press in either an HD800 or DCA socket...

Honestly you're better off cutting the cable just below the Y-split and putting a connector of your choice there. Then you won't need to worry about opening up the headphone itself.

 

[ksorota]

The GS2000e's driver can't do sub-bass. The GS3000e can but needs EQ to reach down. The GS3000e can also slam mid-bass harder due to the cocobolo. Also the GS2000e has significant treble grain that can't be EQ'd out. I noted all this in my comparison review.



You're the only person I know who has complained about the GS3000e headband. It's even wider than Grado's typical headbands. I feel it's fine, considering how light it is.



Honestly you're better off cutting the cable just below the Y-split and putting a connector of your choice there. Then you won't need to worry about opening up the headphone itself.

I thought if doing this, but aesthetically it won’t be as pleasing. In my mind this is a low risk mod that will make me , so def worth it!

 

[Mightygrey]

Just going to ask...why not.

I have the Hemps and really love them, but need to do something about the cable.

My plan is to cut the cable an inch or so below the cups and push the end of the cable into the cups, then drill out the cable hole large enough to press in either an HD800 or DCA socket. Once the hole is drilled out, pull the cable end back out of the cup and attached to the positive and neg. terminals. Test than apply some glue to the connector before refitting into the housing.

I have removed a bunch of the glue from the cups already, but I think I am at the point of either adding heat (not sure how the wood cups take to it) or prying...prying is never good.

The method I propose will work in the short term, not sure about long term durability of not have a locking nut on the backside of the connector. I imagine a good wood glue, or epoxy should hold it for a good long time. The hole will only barely be large enough for the connector, so I am going to rely on pressure also holding it into place.

Question is, what am I missing as a potential hazard? I assume that as long as I keep the pigtail long enough I can always fall back on the beautifulaudio convert kit.

I have tested pushing the cable into the house, seems like I can easily get an inch worth in...getting it back out should not be too troublesome with the larger hold.

Biggest threat I can see is catching the cable in the cup with the tool and pulling off the contact patch from the driver...and maybe getting some shavings into the cup housing.

Following this post with interest. As a fairly lightweight pair of cans, I'd love to add a detachable cable to The Hemp Headphone.

I recently did a detachable cable mod on a pair of SR125e and I'm now able to use the excellent 2.5mm balanced Meze 99 cable with them.

I think that the best course of action for The Hemp Headphones will be to apply heat to the cups to loosen the glue that seats the driver in the maple section of the cups. Next, wiggle the driver out, and use a reamer tool to widen the cable hole enough to seat a 3.5mm mono jack in the hole. Then, snip the cable and solder the wires to the 3/5mm mono jack tip/sleeve terminals. Voila.