[Drrizzt]

Nice to know that you also like the Rega Brio-R with HE-6. (Did you read my recommendation of it last spring?)
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/amp...anar-headphones.529873/page-334#post-13400555

Both bass extension, slam and transient rendering ( = PRaT) is simply impressive - which makes it a very good match for amplified rhythmical music like pop, dance, rock, funk, soul etc. The only "fault" I can find with Brio-R is that soundstage is smaller than with other amps I have heard, which is why it's not as good for acoustic music.

And not to forget one more obvious strength - it has the size of a muscular headphone amp.

Yeah but once i pushed the eBay button

The other drawback to me is the transparancy, it has kind of a veil over the sound, rendering classical music less pure than with my 60€ Marantz. This is a pretty disapointment in thiat regard. I suspect the amp working like a tube amp it has a very seductive tone over it, tubey sound. They don't even give the numbers for the distorsion, that speak a lot i think.

Seems that the quest for the right amp will continue (or simply sell them all And buy a Focal Clear )


Edit: Okay, there was a distorsion problem with the Marantz Pm6010 ose because of the proximity of the dac. I couldnt say what was the issue but i felt there was some haze over the sound with the marrantz, i wasnt entirely happy with it.

Now it's totally clear of disturbance and it's funny to see how this old cheap amp (60€ second hand) is much resolving than the english dandy that cost more than the double new. It's more clear, spacious, vivid and neutral.

I higly recommand it.

 

[Silent One]

For a start try something cheap like these to get started:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112658854685?rmvSB=true

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Balanced-XLR-to-Speaker-Taps-BANANA-PLUGS-Hifiman-HE4-HE5-HE6-HE500-adapter/172733761468?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=20160908110712&meid=04942997278c4413a6fe69ab49e9cc21&pid=100677&rk=3&rkt=30&sd=172733755771&itm=172733761468&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

Then you can look around for someone to build one using your preferred cable type.

As for the rest, my personal subjective opinion and preference for best sound is to forget the resistors. Regardless of preference, always be careful. Start with everything turned off. Connect the adapter cable to the speaker taps (For the MC275 I use the 8 Ohm taps for my 48 Ohm HE6s which have a low efficiency similar to the Susvaras). Be certain you have your volume control turned completely counterclockwise (if digital, to the smallest negative gain). Turn your equipment on in the following sequence: sound source, preamp or passive volume, amp, start music, very slowly turn the volume control from no gain control to your desired level. When finished listening turn the volume control back to no gain. Then reverse the turn on process: first turn off your amp, then your preamp, then your source.

Just the member I've been looking for! Could really use your advice. I've great habits inside the listening room (sequential turn-on/off and volume control), it's always great to see members with friendly, important reminders.

Regarding resistors, don't care much for 'em either. But still use them out of fear to my tube mono blocks - formerly the HE-6 via the HE-adapter and currently just 16 ohm resistors dangling naked off the 16 ohm outputs. But of course I'd like to ditch 'em...like right now!!! Obviously I'd like to ask despite your confidence runnin' the MC275 (nearly bought one and still want one, btw) naked, have you slight concerns at all that are merely overcome by being careful? Despite good practices, I'm concerned with bricking my Shindo Lab monos. If you could convince me to go "naked," that'd make my entire summer when it comes!!!

 

[LarsHP]

A theory for amping HE-6 well

Some "experts" claim that (theoretically) planar magnetic headphones are not affected by (even) a high output impedance in the amplifier since there is no driver resonance (in the bass).

I think that this is might not true based on the following:

1) speaker amps are often better at driving HE-6 than high powered headphone amps (speaker amps providing tight bass have low output impedance)
2) tube speaker amps have softer bass than solid state amps (tube amps are known to have higher output impedance than SS amps)
3) the balanced amp card in HM901S which is doing only 440mW, but has low output impedance, provides better and more sub bass than a 5W headphone amp I have

So - in short - having enough power / ampere is not enough to get HE-6 sound right. We need apparently need an amp with very low output impedance too.

Unfortunately output impedance is almost never stated in the amplifier spec's. This might explain why many people have bought several amps that from a power viewpoint should have no issues driving HE-6, but in practice sounds lean.

 

[jarnopp]

A theory for amping HE-6 well

Some "experts" claim that (theoretically) planar magnetic headphones are not affected by (even) a high output impedance in the amplifier since there is no driver resonance (in the bass).

I think that this is might not true based on the following:

1) speaker amps are often better at driving HE-6 than high powered headphone amps (speaker amps providing tight bass have low output impedance)
2) tube speaker amps have softer bass than solid state amps (tube amps are known to have higher output impedance than SS amps)
3) the balanced amp card in HM901S which is doing only 440mW, but has low output impedance, provides better and more sub bass than a 5W headphone amp I have

So - in short - having enough power / ampere is not enough to get HE-6 sound right. We need apparently need an amp with very low output impedance too.

Unfortunately output impedance is almost never stated in the amplifier spec's. This might explain why many people have bought several amps that from a power viewpoint should have no issues driving HE-6, but in practice sounds lean.

This may be why i felt Hugo2, and to a lesser extent, Mojo, could drive the HE-6 pleasantly, if not totally. The new Hugo TT2 with 18W per channel balanced into 8 ohms (6W into 50 ohms) should sound pretty good.

 

[Drrizzt]

I think it's pretty well know that plannars magnetic doesn't work well with high output impédance amp. I remember having a Garage 1217 project Solaris,. With an impedance switch. On high output imp setting, my he500 was flabby in the bass.

 

[LarsHP]

I think it's pretty well know that plannars magnetic doesn't work well with high output impédance amp. I remember having a Garage 1217 project Solaris,. With an impedance switch. On high output imp setting, my he500 was flabby in the bass.

I frankly haven't seen anyone saying that planar magnetic drivers doesn't work well with high output impedance amps before. However, your experience with the output impedance switches on the Polaris(?) makes a strong point here. This surely suggests that output impedance in fact does impact planars.

 

[Sabenza]

Just the member I've been looking for! Could really use your advice. I've great habits inside the listening room (sequential turn-on/off and volume control), it's always great to see members with friendly, important reminders.

Regarding resistors, don't care much for 'em either. But still use them out of fear to my tube mono blocks - formerly the HE-6 via the HE-adapter and currently just 16 ohm resistors dangling naked off the 16 ohm outputs. But of course I'd like to ditch 'em...like right now!!! Obviously I'd like to ask despite your confidence runnin' the MC275 (nearly bought one and still want one, btw) naked, have you slight concerns at all that are merely overcome by being careful? Despite good practices, I'm concerned with bricking my Shindo Lab monos. If you could convince me to go "naked," that'd make my entire summer when it comes!!!

Just want to let everyone know that I have taken rlawli's recommendation and tried "naked" with the MC275 VI, and it works.

I am now trying to get someone to mod a speaker cable for the Susvara.

 

[Drrizzt]

I frankly haven't seen anyone saying that planar magnetic drivers doesn't work well with high output impedance amps before. However, your experience with the output impedance switches on the Polaris(?) makes a strong point here. This surely suggests that output impedance in fact does impact planars.

Yes sorry, it was the Polaris.

Indeed the change was quite dramatic when i switched the impedance setting. Yet with the hd600 it didnt affect the sound at all, they work well with high output impédance headphones

 

[Brooklyn70]

Sure this may not drive the HE-6 to potential, but it sure drives them well to me! I think the bha-1 is a level above the mojo in performance, and it does take better control of the HE-6 surprisingly. (i.e: fuller sound, more airiness, better bass extension and especially extension in the highs).

With all due respects, these two amps sound better than many speaker amps I've tried, and I've tried the HE-6 through speaker taps of rotel integrated's, vintage quad's, audiolab, rega, roksan, cambridge audio, vela audio and other lower end stuff like denons and yamahas.

Has anyone ever Dept with Had Audiolab? I’ve tried to reach out to them a few times and got no responce. I’m very interested in the
Project Zephyr ONE - 2a3 headamp If anyone can let me know

 

[Drrizzt]

I just got a Denon PMA 1500-AE for the he-6.

Okay, full potential unleashed now. My jaw is on the floor.

This tremendous punch, visceralness, vastness, speed, details, the highs are perfectly tamed.

This amp is a real champ. (300€ second hand).

 

[wuwhere]

I finally got a Linn Klout for my HE-6. I won't be able to set it up for a few weeks since I'm away from home.
This is what it looks like. Got to get some BFAs too.

 

[Rhamnetin]

Regarding output impedance, I always just adhere to the at least 8x lower than the headphone's impedance rule. Don't see a reason to deviate from it. The HE-6 being a low impedance headphone suggests a very low output impedance amp works best for it. I used my modded HE-6 (LFF Code-6) with a Mjolnir Audio Pure BiPolar and was pleased with the results once I got adequate pads for them (FocusPad-A ended up being my favorite). It's a fully balanced amp, not sure what the output impedance is other than it's no more than 1 ohm. Would need to crank the volume quite a bit though, if I were keeping that headphone or the SUSVARA then I'd try to acquire a Super Symmetry Dynahi as my end game amp for it.

 

[MadSounds]

So Audio-gd has a new 125 watt at 8 ohm power amp out? As I've understood it (and i don't) the critical factor in driving these old HFM cans is slew rate, swinging on demand current fast. a mid power current domain amp like this could be ideal.
http://www.audio-gd.com/Master/A1/A1EN.htm

I'm a NOS11 owner who had a he-6 for over a year before i stupidly sold it in January. I always felt this amp did 'good enough' because it let the he-6 easily beat the LCD-3f (2015?) to my ear. Now I'm lucky enough to have purchased a code-6 and it probably deserves a proper amp down the line. Looks like there are a few very solid options for amps well under 1k$, at 950$ plus crazy shipping is the new a1 amp a contender? probably going to be a few months before i can pull the trigger.

They also have a 15 watt at 40 ohm amp also, the Precision 3.
http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/amp/Precision3/Precision3EN.htm
On paper this is about 2/3 more power then i have now. In the opinion of this thread, how much would this amp leave on the table when driving an he-6?

I sort of like the idea of using audio-gd's current interconnects just because its an option. I'll be looking into other amps also.

Edit: had my code-6 just about an hour now, sounds so amazing with just under 9 watts available from my NOS11, 60-70/100 on volume gets to listening levels no problem. I'll be really eager to take off work next time there's a major headphone meet in the upper Midwest, I cant believe my current amp is lacking, but the first hand accounts are nearly unanimous.

 

[ambchang]

Could you describe a little, even based on memory, how is the code 6 different from the stock?

Much appreciated.

 

[MadSounds]

code-6 is mod done by @LFF. no one knows the exact mods done, they actually have a far more opaque fabric over the drivers and grills then stock. probably the best answer for leveling treble according to a few people's opinion and some measurements here
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/lff-code-6-code-sex-custom-modded-he-6.863738/

I believe @LFF says his mods don't lower sensitivity, but there was some speculation on another forum that they might. Both those points are second hand and should be taken with a grain of salt.

I can't really compare to my last he-6 cause its been half a year, but it defiantly seams to be that same flavor i loved so much. crisp and clean but with force, like an elephant dancing effortlessly on its tip toes. sound stage probably sounds a bit different, my last pair were blue take modded and had screens removed. i remember it sounding infinitely open before, now its like the sound stage edges are wide but diffuse, like things on the edges sort of fade into the distance. but i might not say that if i was double blind and didn't know there was much more fabric.


more to the point it gets to good listening volume fore me around 60-75/100 volume, 75 being too loud to listen continuously. very close the my last he-6