Thunderpants!
Oct 13, 2011 at 3:58 PM Post #1,771 of 2,225
Outstanding looking set of cans HiGHFLYiN9!!!  The cups look deeper then what smeggy produces, is that true?
 
Oct 13, 2011 at 8:53 PM Post #1,772 of 2,225


Quote:
Couple questions though:
1. Short of using a CNC lathe, how do you make sure your cups are turned identically. I'm sure there isnt much of an effect on sound but i care about cosmetics too 
2. I have access to 3D printers and wonder if it's worth just having the cups and baffles printed. Based on what i've read in this forum, material doesnt matter as long as you seal well and it's damped enough.
3. Anyone know how to make the CTH without the pcb. I've pretty much searched this entire forum (and the CTH thread) and haven't really found anyone willing to sell the pcb. 
 


1. They don't have to match perfectly, as long as each baffle match its cups, and that's not too hard to do on a non-cnc woodturning lathe. You should worry about matching the patterns of your wood instead / chooses pieces that will yield similar texture.
 
2. 3D printers usually print in plastic right ? Well, the forums will tell you that any kind of hardwood would do for the cups and that you don't need to buy exotic high density wood. But plastics are another ball game. You tell us what your printers can do and how soft / light is the end result.
 
3. Can't help you there.
 
Oct 14, 2011 at 1:12 PM Post #1,773 of 2,225


Quote:
1. They don't have to match perfectly, as long as each baffle match its cups, and that's not too hard to do on a non-cnc woodturning lathe. You should worry about matching the patterns of your wood instead / chooses pieces that will yield similar texture.
 
2. 3D printers usually print in plastic right ? Well, the forums will tell you that any kind of hardwood would do for the cups and that you don't need to buy exotic high density wood. But plastics are another ball game. You tell us what your printers can do and how soft / light is the end result.
 
3. Can't help you there.

 
 I'm not too concerned about matching the patterns since I'm going to buy a pretty big block and split it down the middle so the two outer faces of the cups will be the faces of the split. Thanks for the heads up though.
 
The 3d printers i use are connex objet 500's. They print in this soft but very dense plastic. It would most definitely sink if a solid piece was thrown in water. I think i'm going to print them anyway just to see how it sounds. I'll update on the sound if anyone's actually interested.
 
-edit-
so i just looked up the density of UHMW poly and it's less than the print material we use for the 3D printers (1.18 g/cm3 for anyone that's curious) so i'll give it a try.
 
 
Oct 14, 2011 at 2:24 PM Post #1,774 of 2,225


Quote:
 
The 3d printers i use are connex objet 500's. They print in this soft but very dense plastic. It would most definitely sink if a solid piece was thrown in water. I think i'm going to print them anyway just to see how it sounds. I'll update on the sound if anyone's actually interested.

 

 
This sounds interesting, would like to see the finish product and hear your impressions.
 
 
Oct 14, 2011 at 5:08 PM Post #1,775 of 2,225
 
Quote:
Outstanding looking set of cans HiGHFLYiN9!!!  The cups look deeper then what smeggy produces, is that true?

I believe they are a centimeter or two deeper based on where the end of the Stax pads line up on the cups. I purchased the cups from someone here months ago but he's no longer a member of the forum, so I'd encourage you to get your cups from Smeggy at this point. 
 
 
 
Oct 15, 2011 at 3:13 AM Post #1,776 of 2,225
More of a lurker here, and one too poor to buy the undoubtedly brilliant Smeggy-made Thunderpants, but would it be true that higher wood density would correlate to less need for damping - I plan to dampen my Fostex with the RP2 scheme, and tweak from there.
 
Also, has anybody tried teak for their cups and baffles? Teak is pretty abundant here (I can get a 1-foot cube of teak of indeterminate quality for around US$65), though I have not bought it yet - need to go down to see the grain and stuff.
 
My father's friend is a carpenter and hardcore audio geek. Let's just say his rig makes the SR-009 and energizer look cheap. Apparently he has access to a lathe/CNC machine, and should be quite alright with allowing me to use the machine to cut some cups and baffles. (Interest Check: anyone willing to trade Stax pads for a finished set of cups and baffles?)
 
Thanks in advance for any answers!
 
Oct 18, 2011 at 11:59 AM Post #1,780 of 2,225
He has quite a few more orders to fill, then normal.  He has a group buy to fulfill, plus extra publicity recently, so I would expect a longer then average wait.  I'm thinking of placing an order in the springtime.  And hopefully this new found popularity will ease...
 
Oct 19, 2011 at 11:10 PM Post #1,782 of 2,225
^ nice!    Make sure you cover the ear side of your baffle around the driver hole with some felt or you will get an echoey effect imo. Also. To dampen the cup, I would fill it with teased apart cotton balls on top of that felt piece you have in there already. I would also take the transpore tape off if thats what i see on your driver... I have been running myn without it and just the plain felt for now with the cotton ball setup and its great. otherwise it looks good.
 
M
 
Oct 21, 2011 at 11:14 AM Post #1,784 of 2,225
Cool, good luck!  Also, i dont know if you have any access to dynamat or fatmat to line the cup with to kill some of that plastic resonance? That stuff really works well when applied per spec.
 
M
 

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